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  1. #21
    Silver Member reelnative's Avatar
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    ford 3500,cat 416 w extenda hoe,bobcat 853,john deere110,kioti 3054, taskmaster 426e

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best

  2. #22
    Platinum Member adirondackmtnman's Avatar
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    Black Brook, NY
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    JD 5045D

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    Quote Originally Posted by reelnative View Post
    the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best
    I had a 2 350's and for occasional use, they might be an OK saw, but they don't hold up well to firewood production. They have a great, fast running motor, but if they're run too long without a good cool down, the plastic saddles that the crank bearings ride in warp, deform, and eventually the whole bottom end shakes itself to pieces. You'll know it's staring to happen when it revs erratically, due to the crank seals beginning to fail, but by then it's too late. I'd say, if the OP's looking for a good saw, my first recommendation is a pro-grade Stihl, or *gags* husqvarna. JK...The pro saws are made to run frequently and hard, and are more easily serviced/repaired. Brand doesn't matter to much, at that level they're all good saws, but find a good dealer whom you can develop a good repoire with, who's been in the business a while, and while you may spend more up front, you won't be sorry later. Just my $0.02

    Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
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  3. #23
    Silver Member reelnative's Avatar
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    ford 3500,cat 416 w extenda hoe,bobcat 853,john deere110,kioti 3054, taskmaster 426e

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    Quote Originally Posted by adirondackmtnman View Post
    I had a 2 350's and for occasional use, they might be an OK saw, but they don't hold up well to firewood production. They have a great, fast running motor, but if they're run too long without a good cool down, the plastic saddles that the crank bearings ride in warp, deform, and eventually the whole bottom end shakes itself to pieces. You'll know it's staring to happen when it revs erratically, due to the crank seals beginning to fail, but by then it's too late. I'd say, if the OP's looking for a good saw, my first recommendation is a pro-grade Stihl, or *gags* husqvarna. JK...The pro saws are made to run frequently and hard, and are more easily serviced/repaired. Brand doesn't matter to much, at that level they're all good saws, but find a good dealer whom you can develop a good repoire with, who's been in the business a while, and while you may spend more up front, you won't be sorry later. Just my $0.02

    Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet


    hahaha yea but hes been running a homelite so going from a homelite to a huski is like going from a broken push cart to the space shuttle

  4. #24
    Platinum Member adirondackmtnman's Avatar
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    JD 5045D

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    Quote Originally Posted by reelnative View Post

    hahaha yea but hes been running a homelite so going from a homelite to a huski is like going from a broken push cart to the space shuttle
    True, but those old homelites were built way more stout than anything they've built recently. Keep in mind, his old saw was ~30 years old...

    Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
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  5. #25
    Super Member kenmac's Avatar
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    The Heart of Dixie
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    yanmar 3110D

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    Back in the day, Homelite was what the loggers in my area used.. They were pro saws back then as was poulan
    Yanmar 3110D
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  6. #26
    Super Star Member LD1's Avatar
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    Central Ohio
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    Kubota l3400

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    Quote Originally Posted by reelnative View Post
    hahaha yea but hes been running a homelite so going from a homelite to a huski is like going from a broken push cart to the space shuttle
    That may be true if he dont get a box store husky
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."


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  7. #27
    Super Member
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    Shingle Springs California
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    New Holland TC40D

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    Interesting. All of our newer saws are Stihl. All of our Primary Engines also have Stihl circular saw. Our oldest circ saw is a Partner, which runs pretty good for being old.

    Quote Originally Posted by reelnative View Post
    the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best
    RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif

  8. #28
    Veteran Member
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    Success Missouri
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    Kubota L3800DT, L3750DT Shuttle

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    Quote Originally Posted by reelnative View Post
    the best saw for the money is a Husqvarna 345 or 350, they really put a big eng on them for the bar size you can tell by the weight and also the sound, ive had a 345 for many yrs and never had a problem with mine and I have cut down 100s of trees with it, and all of our fire trucks carry 350s on them, you can also put a good chain on a crappy saw and make it a good saw, I allways run oragon blades, I myself think they are the best
    Get your hands on a 346xp and compare. Made from 1999-2012, replaced by the 550xp.

    Oh and chainsaws don't have blades.
    Don
    Kubota L3750 Hydro Shuttle, 4wd, FEL; L3800 Gear drive, 4wd, FEL
    Husqvarna XP chainsaws 346xp X3, 357xp, 562xp, 359

  9. #29
    Silver Member EMS503's Avatar
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    Harmony, NC
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    1960 or 61 MF35 Deluxe, 2008 Kubota L3940 GST

    Default Re: Which brand to buy

    Finally got a chance to open the side covers and remove the muffler, everything was clear no obstructions, but the piston what I could see of it through the exhuast port was burnt but the cyl. wall was clean. I am guessing that the engine overheated even though it wasn't running that long. I put it back together and cut down a tree that was maybe 2" in diameter and it ran like nothing ever happened. Tommorow I am going to push it and start cutting the bigger logs 6" to 8" diameter and see if it happens again. I am being told there are no new parts around anymore for this age saw. So if it happens again I will probably go out and buy a Husky. I wanted the Stihl but keeping getting told the Carb. is a pain as they have to be adjusted all the time and easily floods the engine.
    John

    2008 Kubota L3940 GST & 1961 MF 35 Deluxe

  10. #30
    Platinum Member adirondackmtnman's Avatar
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    JD 5045D

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    Quote Originally Posted by EMS503 View Post
    Finally got a chance to open the side covers and remove the muffler, everything was clear no obstructions, but the piston what I could see of it through the exhuast port was burnt but the cyl. wall was clean. I am guessing that the engine overheated even though it wasn't running that long. I put it back together and cut down a tree that was maybe 2" in diameter and it ran like nothing ever happened. Tommorow I am going to push it and start cutting the bigger logs 6" to 8" diameter and see if it happens again. I am being told there are no new parts around anymore for this age saw. So if it happens again I will probably go out and buy a Husky. I wanted the Stihl but keeping getting told the Carb. is a pain as they have to be adjusted all the time and easily floods the engine.
    I'm not sure who's telling you that a Stihl's carb will need to be adjusted frequently, but they don't need it any more than any other saw. Most of the 'flooding' problems people have with them come from improper starting procedure, not incorrect needle adjustment. As long as your air cleaner and fuel filter are kept clean, spark plug is kept fresh, and the carb isn't gummed up, the factory settings should always be pretty close, with VERY infrequent and minor tweaks necessary. I've had my 362 for four years and never had to make an adjustment yet.

    Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
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