Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
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- 7,660
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- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
This post is inspired by the recent closed thread about the TSC sharpener that turned ugly, and I tried to post this on there but by the time I got it written the thread had closed. :duh:
FWIW, here's what I do. I use a hand file, without a file guide, and push AND rotate the file at the same time through each and every stroke, starting at the master link of the chain. One determines where the master link is by finding two teeth in sequence that are on the same side of the bar. Then I stand over the saw with the bar held in a bench vice, (with magnetic plastic jaws to keep the bar from any damage). I use an adjustable light to shine onto the teeth so I can see what I'm doing and get a better view of the bar/chain. I lock the chain brake to keep the chain from moving, and use two hands on the file to balance it in the tooth and to not rock the file as I push out from the center to the outer edge of the bar through the tooth. Each tooth gets visually inspected in case it is damaged more then others. Once I've done all teeth and arrive back at the master link I flip the saw 180* in the vice and follow the same procedure on the other side. Then I use the *guide which rest on the top of the teeth and file the rakers as needed to keep them even with the overall tooth wear.
Stihl sells raker guides and a file kit that provide the proper tools to make hand sharpening effective and less frustrating, especially for those who are just beginning to sharpen their own chain.
* The guide I was talking about can be combined with a bar groove cleaner tool and the combination of the two, and a wood or plastic file handle for the rat tail end of the file are all what I consider necessities for any hand filer. Flipping the bar over with every chain sharpening or change to a sharp chain is also highly recommended. Ideally, one would have two bars and two chains for each saw and would change out the saw sprocket once the chains and bars are worn down. Tightening of the chain in the bar should be enough so there is just a slight amount of slack on the underside of the bar near where it enters the shoot when returning to the sprocket. Too tight and the saw can be damaged, too loose and the chain can/will come off the bar. Technically, when one shuts the saw down at the end of the day, one should loosen the chain slightly to not allow the chain to tighten when it cools and put stress on the saw bearings.
The Stihl and other brand saw sharpening kits are here: Amazon.com: stihl chainsaw sharpening kit
Note that each saw kit fits a specific saw chain size. The metal tool between the flat file and the round file is the guide I was referring to to properly adjust the rakers, clean the bar groove, etc.
Remember to spin the file in either the metal holder included in the file kit, or by hand if doing the sharpening by feel as I do most of the time. Replace the file when it no longer cuts metal off the teeth with little effort.
And, if you look carefully at where the laser lines are on the teeth one can get used to using them to guide where the file needs to go when sharpening. One other tip, try lining up the correct size file in a brand new chain on the bar in the vise to get a sense of what a sharp tooth angle looks like.
Personally, I don't mind taking the necessary amount of time to sharpen a chain, and if it takes more time than by machine so be it; I'm going to get more miles out of my chain, and I'm not doing production work or sharpening for anyone but me and my Stihls. I've considered buying a grinder, but unless I could get it for what the OP is buying his for, or less in case his first offer buyer doesn't close the deal, I don't need another piece of equipment in my shop.
Sharp saw chains are like a sharp knife, safer for the user and for the equipment.
And for those guys 'rocking' their saws on a regular basis maybe you should be paying closer attention to what and where you cut. I'm not saying I don't hit stuff like hidden barbed wire right after sharpening a chain, in fact that's the best way to locate metal or rocks, is to finish sharpening your chain in the field..... But some things are avoidable by experience- edges of fields, wire abounds, stumps, wetlands; rocks and dirt are everywhere.
One last thought. I do carry a file kit and a vise mounted to my rear rack on my ATV, and usually take both my tractor and ATV to wherever I'm going to cut on my property so to have a safe escape vehicle in case of unforeseen injury, since I usually work alone. I ALWAYS have my phone fully charged, sometimes a walkie-talkie, and chainsaw boots, chainsaw gloves, chaps, and full gear helmet with visor and earmuffs.
I hope this has been helpful to the OP and whomever else who reads this.
Feel free to PM me if further questions or thoughts arise.
CM out
FWIW, here's what I do. I use a hand file, without a file guide, and push AND rotate the file at the same time through each and every stroke, starting at the master link of the chain. One determines where the master link is by finding two teeth in sequence that are on the same side of the bar. Then I stand over the saw with the bar held in a bench vice, (with magnetic plastic jaws to keep the bar from any damage). I use an adjustable light to shine onto the teeth so I can see what I'm doing and get a better view of the bar/chain. I lock the chain brake to keep the chain from moving, and use two hands on the file to balance it in the tooth and to not rock the file as I push out from the center to the outer edge of the bar through the tooth. Each tooth gets visually inspected in case it is damaged more then others. Once I've done all teeth and arrive back at the master link I flip the saw 180* in the vice and follow the same procedure on the other side. Then I use the *guide which rest on the top of the teeth and file the rakers as needed to keep them even with the overall tooth wear.
Stihl sells raker guides and a file kit that provide the proper tools to make hand sharpening effective and less frustrating, especially for those who are just beginning to sharpen their own chain.
* The guide I was talking about can be combined with a bar groove cleaner tool and the combination of the two, and a wood or plastic file handle for the rat tail end of the file are all what I consider necessities for any hand filer. Flipping the bar over with every chain sharpening or change to a sharp chain is also highly recommended. Ideally, one would have two bars and two chains for each saw and would change out the saw sprocket once the chains and bars are worn down. Tightening of the chain in the bar should be enough so there is just a slight amount of slack on the underside of the bar near where it enters the shoot when returning to the sprocket. Too tight and the saw can be damaged, too loose and the chain can/will come off the bar. Technically, when one shuts the saw down at the end of the day, one should loosen the chain slightly to not allow the chain to tighten when it cools and put stress on the saw bearings.
The Stihl and other brand saw sharpening kits are here: Amazon.com: stihl chainsaw sharpening kit
Note that each saw kit fits a specific saw chain size. The metal tool between the flat file and the round file is the guide I was referring to to properly adjust the rakers, clean the bar groove, etc.
Remember to spin the file in either the metal holder included in the file kit, or by hand if doing the sharpening by feel as I do most of the time. Replace the file when it no longer cuts metal off the teeth with little effort.
And, if you look carefully at where the laser lines are on the teeth one can get used to using them to guide where the file needs to go when sharpening. One other tip, try lining up the correct size file in a brand new chain on the bar in the vise to get a sense of what a sharp tooth angle looks like.
Personally, I don't mind taking the necessary amount of time to sharpen a chain, and if it takes more time than by machine so be it; I'm going to get more miles out of my chain, and I'm not doing production work or sharpening for anyone but me and my Stihls. I've considered buying a grinder, but unless I could get it for what the OP is buying his for, or less in case his first offer buyer doesn't close the deal, I don't need another piece of equipment in my shop.
Sharp saw chains are like a sharp knife, safer for the user and for the equipment.
And for those guys 'rocking' their saws on a regular basis maybe you should be paying closer attention to what and where you cut. I'm not saying I don't hit stuff like hidden barbed wire right after sharpening a chain, in fact that's the best way to locate metal or rocks, is to finish sharpening your chain in the field..... But some things are avoidable by experience- edges of fields, wire abounds, stumps, wetlands; rocks and dirt are everywhere.
One last thought. I do carry a file kit and a vise mounted to my rear rack on my ATV, and usually take both my tractor and ATV to wherever I'm going to cut on my property so to have a safe escape vehicle in case of unforeseen injury, since I usually work alone. I ALWAYS have my phone fully charged, sometimes a walkie-talkie, and chainsaw boots, chainsaw gloves, chaps, and full gear helmet with visor and earmuffs.
I hope this has been helpful to the OP and whomever else who reads this.
Feel free to PM me if further questions or thoughts arise.
CM out
Wow, I just don't get what's going on with the posters and threads on the TBN forums!? It drives me NUTZ, just trying to get some useful info out there and threads turn to trash in no time.:confused3: