Anyone know a way to increase the output on a 450 oil pump? Love this little saw but its bad on bars and sprockets because of the lack of oil flow. Goes through about two tanks of fuel per tank of oil. Didn't know if there was a way to mod it or an aftermarket replacement pump with more output?
Husky 450 oil pump
- Thread starter Bud Soda
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I have a Stihl MS250C that does the same thing - burns up bars. Has what looks to be good oil flow on the bench. Cleaned bar and made sure I was running the correct chain. Maybe a air lock? Something is not right but Dealers all say no known problem. I have several saws but nothing like this. If I take it in to be checked I will have more in the saw than it is worth. Wish you well.
s219
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It's hard to say if this is normal behavior, as the oil rate of modern saws is a lot less than it used to be (especially Stihl). I normally use about 1.5 tanks of fuel to a tank of oil on most of my saws. My Stihls all have an adjustable oiler (screw on the bottom) and I have it maxed out. Even then, they don't sling oil off the bar tip like old saws did -- it's more of a mist now. This is intentional, to be more environmentally friendly. I have not run into issues with abnormal bar, chain, or sprocket wear, so it's obviously doing OK.
The only thing I can suggest is to make sure you are tensioning your chains cold. Tensioning a warm/hot chain will cause it to be too tight when it gets cooler, and can cause a lot of issues with wear on the bar, chain, sprocket, and crank bearing.
Also, make sure there is a healthy dribble of oil out of the oiler port when the saw is running on your bench without a bar/chain. If not, work backward to figure out what's wrong. Even today's oil-stingy saws should put out a healthy dribble of oil. If the oil flow is decent out the oiler port, make sure the bar oiler hole is clear, as well as the chain slot.
You can upsize the oiler on several pro Stihl saws. Not sure about Huskys, but I would doubt it on a 450, since it's a homeowner saw.
Sorry I don't have anything beyond basics to suggest.
The only thing I can suggest is to make sure you are tensioning your chains cold. Tensioning a warm/hot chain will cause it to be too tight when it gets cooler, and can cause a lot of issues with wear on the bar, chain, sprocket, and crank bearing.
Also, make sure there is a healthy dribble of oil out of the oiler port when the saw is running on your bench without a bar/chain. If not, work backward to figure out what's wrong. Even today's oil-stingy saws should put out a healthy dribble of oil. If the oil flow is decent out the oiler port, make sure the bar oiler hole is clear, as well as the chain slot.
You can upsize the oiler on several pro Stihl saws. Not sure about Huskys, but I would doubt it on a 450, since it's a homeowner saw.
Sorry I don't have anything beyond basics to suggest.
sleepybozo
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Don't know your saw in particular, but many saws have a screw adjustment on the bottom of the saw for the oil flow. I've never seen one that was marked, but it has about a half turn adjustment range. It actually adjusts the length of the oil pump's piston stroke. It can make quite a difference.
I assume you know to make sure all the oil passages in the bar are clean and lined up, and that you have the right bar with the oil passages in the right place for your saw ...
I assume you know to make sure all the oil passages in the bar are clean and lined up, and that you have the right bar with the oil passages in the right place for your saw ...
No this is a low cost saw and has no oil flow adjustment. I have a 570 with a oil flow adjustment. With it set about 3/4 full it uses one tank of fuel per one tank of oil, and I have yet to put a sprocket on it. I sell firewood so both these saws see alot of use. The 450 is used less as it is mainly used as for limbing and small stuff. Both saws were bought at the same time, probably around 4 years ago.
Winmac
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The saw is designed to only pump oil when the chain is turning, if you were to change out the clutch drum and drive gear it could be converted to pump continuously.
This would put more oil on the bar but I can't say for certain it would solve the problem.
On the huskies I like to seal the metal plate to the saw with silicone to ensure all the oil goes out to the bar, not down behind the plate.
Regarding the stilh always check that the bar mounting stud is seated flush with the case, I've found a few that were proud causing oiling and tensioning issues.
This would put more oil on the bar but I can't say for certain it would solve the problem.
On the huskies I like to seal the metal plate to the saw with silicone to ensure all the oil goes out to the bar, not down behind the plate.
Regarding the stilh always check that the bar mounting stud is seated flush with the case, I've found a few that were proud causing oiling and tensioning issues.