Echo 18" CS420 - Chain keeps popping off and getting burred up...
- Thread starter MossflowerWoods
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newbury
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The second chain is some sort of safety chain.
note ramp
You should be able to pull the chain down slightly when it's "tight", and always tighten while lifting up on the end of the bar.
/edit and you are probably running the wrong chain for the sprocket.
It wouldn't be the first time a retailer put a saw together wrong.
Grateful11
Veteran Member
I've seen small stuff like that throw more chains than anything else, not exactly sure why but that's what I've run into.
Coyote machine
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Lay the bar on a flat surface and make sure it has no warpage, that the bar groove is open all the way around with no pinching anywhere along it's entire length and once you've verified that install the correct chain, tighten it enough to allow you to move the chain, with gloves on, to verify it does not bind anywhere along the bar. Run the chain from the master link, (where two teeth are on the same side of the chain in sequence), all the way around the bar to where you began- again with no binding or tight spots. You should be able to pull the chain down maybe a half inch near the bottom of the bar close to the entry of the chain into the sprocket cover area, when the saw is cold.
hslogger
Platinum Member
Ya might as well take a good look at your star drive while you are at it. Whether or not you have a plain star or rim and sprocket system, something there might be buggered up by now.
When looking at a bar, I take it off the saw, clean the rails out with a putty knife or something of that nature. Pull the knife from the tip to the mount end. Clean it out good. Make sure your nose sprocket is free wheeling and not tweeked.
Take you bar with the cleaned rails and look down it to see if it is pinched any place or too fat. If you see overlap on your rails similar to what could be compared to musrooming on something else, file your rails by hand to knock those burrs off. Some guys will use a combo woodworking sanding disk/belt to dress their bars. Bars often need to be profiled or thrown away. A bar's profile is really important and if in doubt ask a professional in your area to show you one that is good, kinda worn, and flat worn out and you will have something to go from.
When looking at a bar, I take it off the saw, clean the rails out with a putty knife or something of that nature. Pull the knife from the tip to the mount end. Clean it out good. Make sure your nose sprocket is free wheeling and not tweeked.
Take you bar with the cleaned rails and look down it to see if it is pinched any place or too fat. If you see overlap on your rails similar to what could be compared to musrooming on something else, file your rails by hand to knock those burrs off. Some guys will use a combo woodworking sanding disk/belt to dress their bars. Bars often need to be profiled or thrown away. A bar's profile is really important and if in doubt ask a professional in your area to show you one that is good, kinda worn, and flat worn out and you will have something to go from.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Has the drive sprocket, bar and chain been checked for compatibility?
OP
MossflowerWoods
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Bump...
OK, I put the Echo away for a while because I got so mad when I went to pick up the sharpened and deburred chains the Oregon chain that it came with brand new had broke off a tooth and it was now scrap metal. So I grabbed the Stihl MS261 to see if it was me. Nope.
I cut for multiple weekends. I filled a buddy's 5x7 trailer twice, and the back of trusty rusty my 88 Ranger pickup at least 3 times and I've not even changed the chain yet.
I will go out and try the Echo again soon, when I have goof off time to figure out WTH is going on with it and try all the excellent advice given thus far.
Be well all,
David
OK, I put the Echo away for a while because I got so mad when I went to pick up the sharpened and deburred chains the Oregon chain that it came with brand new had broke off a tooth and it was now scrap metal. So I grabbed the Stihl MS261 to see if it was me. Nope.
I cut for multiple weekends. I filled a buddy's 5x7 trailer twice, and the back of trusty rusty my 88 Ranger pickup at least 3 times and I've not even changed the chain yet.
I will go out and try the Echo again soon, when I have goof off time to figure out WTH is going on with it and try all the excellent advice given thus far.
Be well all,
David
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Which is why, branches under 1" diameter, I never use a chainsaw on. I just carry my Silky folding saw along or attached to my belt and cut them with that. Only takes one stroke, maybe 2 on a dead dry oak branch. www.baileysonline has all sorts of trim saws and the full line of Silky's. The Silky folds up like a jacknife so the blade is inside the handle when not in use.... good investment for small branches IMO.
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Well I'M confused reading this..
Is this a saw Echo CS400 or 420 like the title says
I have had 2 Echo chainsaws for many many years a CS 280 and a CS 4600
I always get my saw chains and bars from Bailey's also
Is this a saw Echo CS400 or 420 like the title says
I have had 2 Echo chainsaws for many many years a CS 280 and a CS 4600
I always get my saw chains and bars from Bailey's also
tractorshopper
Veteran Member
Just bought an Echo 14" mainly for clearing privet and small trees from property line. I have experienced the same thing. Threw chain 3 times the first day, mostly on 3-4" thick stuff and almost always right at the end of the cut. Never had this problem on my 20" Poulan or 16" McCoullough or certainly never more than once in a day.
I think this thing throttles down more quickly than what I'm used to and so when finishing a cut, I might have let off too soon and the last splinters grabbed the chain and one time specifically I noticed that the last 1/4" got between bar and chain and slipped it over the end.
The very first thing I noticed right out of the box is how tight the chain was put on. So when switching and putting back on, I've been tightening it up good too. More than I usually do on previous saws.
2nd day using it, I threw chain 2 times. 3rd day once. I'm getting the hang of it.
Even as frustrating as this has been, I must say, this thing runs like a champ. Starts great, runs great, very easy to use. Might be the best saw I've owned if I can ever master throttling all the through the cut and making sure cutting away from the pressure points more than I ever have done.
I think this thing throttles down more quickly than what I'm used to and so when finishing a cut, I might have let off too soon and the last splinters grabbed the chain and one time specifically I noticed that the last 1/4" got between bar and chain and slipped it over the end.
The very first thing I noticed right out of the box is how tight the chain was put on. So when switching and putting back on, I've been tightening it up good too. More than I usually do on previous saws.
2nd day using it, I threw chain 2 times. 3rd day once. I'm getting the hang of it.
Even as frustrating as this has been, I must say, this thing runs like a champ. Starts great, runs great, very easy to use. Might be the best saw I've owned if I can ever master throttling all the through the cut and making sure cutting away from the pressure points more than I ever have done.