Chainsaw versus max. bar length?

[mkr7734]

It really depends on the exact model of the saw... My Jonsered 2260 60cc pro quality saw will pull a 24" bar, no problem at all!

IF you like Husqvarna, buy their 562xp with a 24" bar and you will be happy with it, I have it's cousin, the Jonsered 2260 I mentioned above, I love the saw.

SR

My 40 year old 49SP Jonsered has no problem at all with a 18" chain with 3.25 pitch. I would think a 57cc saw could handle a 24" chain if you run it correctly. I seldom run my saw at full RPM I just drive the saw through the wood and let the chain do it's thing. I do not use those so called safety anti kick back saw chains. I have never understood why some guys scream their saws wide open through the wood. That is nuts.

Coby, I think I would try to support the tree in two places, one past the root ball and the other in front of where it is between the two trees. Then just cut it in half then move one of your supports to the other side of the two trees it is stuck in and cut it again. It looks like a nasty job but think it through and be safe.

 

[LD1]

I have never understood why some guys scream their saws wide open through the wood. That is nuts.

Because thats how they were intended to run.

 

[mkr7734]

Because thats how they were intended to run.

Not in my experience of running saws for over 40 years. Where did you hear that they have to be run wide open? It don't say that in my owners manual anywhere. All that does is heat up the bar and eat up the chain. Show me some instructions where it tells you to run at max RPM. Do what you like and I will just do what has worked for me all these years. Why my saw is still in good shape after 40 years of service.
Edit: I learned from an old tree service guy who had been felling trees all of his life when I was about 18 years old. That is what he taught me and his way has always worked for me.

 

[s219]

For cutting, you should definitely run the saw full throttle, no question about it. Better oiling, better airflow, and max power.

Most saws are tuned to 4-stroke at full throttle at no load and then drop to the proper rpm and tune in the wood. That's been the standard for as long as I can remember.

Nothing stopping anyone from using part throttle, but it's definitely not the optimum way to run the saw.

What you should never do, other than when tuning, is run a saw at full throttle with no load.

 

[LD1]

No it dont specifically say that in the owners manual. But does it say anywhere in there to only use part throttle?

Most are worded something like "open the throttle", but no mention as to only open it part way....thus open throttle = all the way.

If your carb is tuned properly....it is meant to run with the throttle all the way open. The fuel mixture can fluctuate if not, and bad things can happen. You also want to maintain a certain RPM in the cut. Otherwise you can burn up the clutch, which makes lots of unwanted heat. And trying to run at a reduced level can cause carbon build up.

If you want a less powerful saw, buy a less powerful saw.

But beyond this, I dont see much point in debating any further. There are always those that insist that running WOT is not good and no matter what anyone tells them, they wont change their minds. For ever 100 people running saws (at WOT), there will be 1 guy that thinks that is wrong (you).

Do as you wish. Others can form their own opinion. I will continue to operate my saws the way I know they are meant to be run

 

[motownbrowne]

They should be run at full throttle, yes. They should not be cutting wood at max RPM, though. The resistance a sharp chain provides while cutting through wood should reduce the RPMs by 2-4000. This is where the saw will make the most power and is designed to operate. That's why cutting with a dull chain can wreck a saw, because the RPMs are too high and not enough load.

 

[CobyRupert]

One of the reasons for a limited bar length on that size saw is the oiling capability. Often times the oil pump is a limiting factor, not just the power of the saw. Some of the bigger saws, like my 395, have an adjustable oil flow that allow for the use of a variety of bar lengths while getting proper lubrication. That being said, I've used a 42" bar on my 372, and it turned it and cut ok. The 395 is better for both power and lubrication, but for one time use- I think you'd be just fine running a 24" bar on your saw. Skip chain might be nice but I doubt it's required, and it can be tougher to obtain.

:thumbsup: I put a 28" (gulp) and a standard spaced toothed chain (skip tooth wasn't immediately available, (I'm not the most patient guy when I want to get things done). Even with that setup, the 57cc saw worked fine. ( Yes I know, a new $800-$900 saw for these dozen cuts would of worked better!)

Good point about the oiler, which I should of investigated more beforehand. I could tell the chain was running too dry for my taste. So on that first day, I just stopped very often to feel the bar and make sure it wasn't overheating, and (lightly) rev it a few times under no load to get some oil on it and repeat. If I'd had the manual on me or more experience I would of seen how easy it is to adjust the oil flow with the only tool I had on me (The chainsaw "skrench" tool?)

I started on the top end of the tree and spent one afternoon just cutting the tops with my 18" saw. Some of those branches were under a lot of pressure, but thinking ahead and using wedges did the job. Only got the saw pinched once (stupid mistake, aren't they all), but the wedges easily got her out, and I used them religiously afterwards. I only had one "Oh-sh*t! Run!!" moment, which wasn't really that bad when she popped and snapped and the trunk dropped about 2 feet.
The reason I started on the top end of the tree was because I figured that the root ball would keep it from rolling (on me!) when I was cutting off the limbs keeping it suspended in the air. That seemed to work well.

 

[mkr7734]

:thumbsup: I put a 28" (gulp) and a standard spaced toothed chain (skip tooth wasn't immediately available, (I'm not the most patient guy when I want to get things done). Even with that setup, the 57cc saw worked fine. ( Yes I know, a new $800-$900 saw for these dozen cuts would of worked better!)

Good point about the oiler, which I should of investigated more beforehand. I could tell the chain was running too dry for my taste. So on that first day, I just stopped very often to feel the bar and make sure it wasn't overheating, and (lightly) rev it a few times under no load to get some oil on it and repeat. If I'd had the manual on me or more experience I would of seen how easy it is to adjust the oil flow with the only tool I had on me (The chainsaw "skrench" tool?)

I started on the top end of the tree and spent one afternoon just cutting the tops with my 18" saw. Some of those branches were under a lot of pressure, but thinking ahead and using wedges did the job. Only got the saw pinched once (stupid mistake, aren't they all), but the wedges easily got her out, and I used them religiously afterwards. I only had one "Oh-sh*t! Run!!" moment, which wasn't really that bad when she popped and snapped and the trunk dropped about 2 feet.
The reason I started on the top end of the tree was because I figured that the root ball would keep it from rolling (on me!) when I was cutting off the limbs keeping it suspended in the air. That seemed to work well.

Glad you got it done and your still in one piece. :thumbsup:

 

[mkr7734]

No it dont specifically say that in the owners manual. But does it say anywhere in there to only use part throttle?

Most are worded something like "open the throttle", but no mention as to only open it part way....thus open throttle = all the way.

If your carb is tuned properly....it is meant to run with the throttle all the way open. The fuel mixture can fluctuate if not, and bad things can happen. You also want to maintain a certain RPM in the cut. Otherwise you can burn up the clutch, which makes lots of unwanted heat. And trying to run at a reduced level can cause carbon build up.

If you want a less powerful saw, buy a less powerful saw.

But beyond this, I dont see much point in debating any further. There are always those that insist that running WOT is not good and no matter what anyone tells them, they wont change their minds. For ever 100 people running saws (at WOT), there will be 1 guy that thinks that is wrong (you).

Do as you wish. Others can form their own opinion. I will continue to operate my saws the way I know they are meant to be run

I think you mis-understood or I mis-explained. I not saying I don't use full throttle, I do when I am in the wood not before I enter the wood. I start out with a fair speed going into the wood Not screaming before it hits the wood. Then increase down pressure and throttle at the same time to keep a chain and engine speed that produce the best chips coming out. That way I get the best from the saw's power and chain without making dust chips/or shavings dust and am not stalling or bogging the rpm down.. At any rate it ain't a science just know the feel. No load full rpm is not needed.
As you said,, Do as you wish. Others can form their own opinion. I will continue to operate my saws the way I know they are meant to be run and that ain't wide open with no load.

 

[jb1390]

I think you mis-understood or I mis-explained. I not saying I don't use full throttle, I do when I am in the wood not before I enter the wood. I start out with a fair speed going into the wood Not screaming before it hits the wood. Then increase down pressure and throttle at the same time to keep a chain and engine speed that produce the best chips coming out. That way I get the best from the saw's power and chain without making dust chips/or shavings dust and am not stalling or bogging the rpm down.. At any rate it ain't a science just know the feel. No load full rpm is not needed.
As you said,, Do as you wish. Others can form their own opinion. I will continue to operate my saws the way I know they are meant to be run and that ain't wide open with no load.

I don't think that this is how most people interpreted your first post. I think most read it that you do not use full throttle when cutting under load - which is nuts. Before starting the cut is another story.

A properly sharpened chain and appropriate pressure (should be minimal with sharp teeth and correct rake depth) should load the saw so that it is not running at "full" rpm when at full throttle.