Portable Chainsaw Mill

[widefat]

Do you have one? Which models are good, which are junk?


This type: Carmyra Portable Chainsaw mill 36" Inch Planking Milling Bar Size 14" to 36" - - Amazon.com

Cheers~

 

[TnAndy]

Had an Alaskan mill at one time....the one you referenced seems to be a close copy of the Alaskan. I doubt the mill matters near as much as the saw needed to run it. You need a honking BIG saw to run anything out in the 20"+ range.

For milling small amounts, or making really long beams ( I put a 36' 8x10 main girder in my barn), and given the fact you can basically mill the log where it fell, these types of mills are the trick for the minimal cost.

Downside is they are VERY labor intense, slow, lose a lot to kerf (5/16-3/8 each cut).

I got rid of mine and bought a Woodmizer bandmill nearly 30 year ago and have cut near a million board feet with it.

 

[newbury]

I've got two Alaskans (plus a Woodmizer band mill).

I get by with my Stihl 660's (90CC) running a 42" bar milling up to 36" wood. Have not had to use my

honking BIG saw

, (my 120CC Stihl 088) yet.

They are labor intense, but so isn't earning $5,000 for a bandsaw mill.

 

[Buggs67]

My problem trying to rip beams from oak with my saw seemed to be that chainsaws are not designed to rip cut. It works OK with softer woods (Poplar, pine) but with the oak I was making fine saw dust even with a fresh chain.

I've read that there are special chains to rip; is that what you'all are using?

Thanks for the feedback. (BTW I'm only doing it for hobby and home projects)

 

[deanocraft]

I have a Granberg chainsaw mill and I bought the Granberg ripping chain and keep it sharp. The chain does work well. My saw is an 59cc Stihl with a 2 ft bar, so I bought a mill just big enough to take advantage of that bar. I haven't milled a lot of stuff, but it did well on the walnut logs I did.

 

[newbury]

My problem trying to rip beams from oak with my saw seemed to be that chainsaws are not designed to rip cut. It works OK with softer woods (Poplar, pine) but with the oak I was making fine saw dust even with a fresh chain.

I've read that there are special chains to rip; is that what you'all are using?

Thanks for the feedback. (BTW I'm only doing it for hobby and home projects)

Yes, "ripping chain" is preferred. Most chain mfgs make a "ripping chain" the prime difference is that it has got about a 10 degree angle on the cutter versus 30 or 35 degrees.

Granberg makes a special "ripping chain"

While there are many companies that sell chain for milling, no other company offers ripping chain that features our specific modifications to the top plate. Our process shaves off approximately half of the tooth lengthwise on the first and second cutter links of each 4 link group. This creates what are called “scoring cutters” and they will take the left and right hand side of a cut, leaving behind a central “lip,” which is then removed by the “clearing cutters”

Chains - Granberg International.

Most CSM'ers use the former type.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I've got two Alaskans (plus a Woodmizer band mill).

They are labor intense, but so isn't earning $5,000 for a bandsaw mill.

Thing is, every 5th board is FREE with the BSM and it's not so hard to mill enough of those boards, to get your $5000 back!!

My Norwood BSM has given me back my $5000 many times over!

SR

 

[Buggs67]

Yes, "ripping chain" is preferred. Most chain mfgs make a "ripping chain" the prime difference is that it has got about a 10 degree angle on the cutter versus 30 or 35 degrees.

Granberg makes a special "ripping chain"
Chains - Granberg International.

Most CSM'ers use the former type.

Thanks! I'll check that out.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Oregon also sells a "ripping chain"...

SR

 

[terryknight]

i have an alaskan mill. started with an 044 and now have a 660. yes it is labor intensive, but it was relatively cheap and i don't mill much.