Chainsaw Chain 101

   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #1  

GoodGuy

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2004
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Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
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JD 4210 E-Hydro
I'm attaching a picture of my chainsaw chain. Would you folks give me a Chainsaw Chain 101 Class ?? I've read threads on here about different style chains & different angles. I cut about a 50/50 mix of hardwood & softwood & sizes from 1" to 12". I also was told by someone about cutting the stub on the leading edge so the chain takes a better bite. I'd appreciate any tips on the chain/bar & even any saw tips. My saw is a Partner Pioneer 5000 about 15 years old but very little hours.
 

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   / Chainsaw Chain 101
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Another picture of the Chain. When I file the chain with my 5/32" round file, all I do is follow the existing angle. Any tips as to how to file the chain "properly".
 

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   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #3  
Goodguy,
The best thing I did for my chain saw was buy the Dremel tool chainsaw sharpening attachment. I can sharpen a chain in about 5 minutes. My personal experience has been that "sharp" is way more important than "angle". The Dremel tool makes it so easy that I sharpen more often and it does a much better job than hand filing. The chain I'm using right now, I used to cut roots that were covered with dirt. I figured I'd be throwing this chain away, but I keep touching it up and it cuts great. As I remember, the attachment was only around $20. Of course, you have to have a Dremel tool too, and they're around $70.

Greg
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #4  
good guy, they make a filling guide, that's simply a U shaped peice of steel, about 6-8" long. it sits over the chain and shows you the angle to file at, and it also has relifs that show you how much your rakers are worn.( the little bump infront of the tooth)

you don't want to file the rakers too much, or the saw will tend to grab things on you, and kick. i think the gage shows 0.035" below the tooth hight. other then that, your chain looks good. the very tip of the tooth is what gets dull, and you can usually see it.
it is better to file a saw evey couple hours, with 1 or 2 rubs, then wait 8-10 hours and have to file it alot to get it sharp.

those dremel sharpeners are nice, but i find it only takes 4-5 min's to file and service a saw anyway, course i used to work in the woods at one time.

that old 5000 is a great saw, we've got 2 of them, and they have been the toughest saws we've ever had. thier comfortable to operate too. mind ya, i like my 257 huskey a little better, but if i hadn't cut wood for a living, i wouldn't have bought it.
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #5  
One thing to watch for is the gap in the bar where the chain runs. Keep the narrow side down on the saw (it makes it cut straighter) Also when you tighten the chain, keep the chain and bar in the upper most position as you tighten the bar clamp bolts. To sharpen with a file, I have a vise mounted on a wood bench (3" or 4") and I clamp the bar in the middle of the bar (so not to bend the chain guide shut). You can buy a file handle from Walmart that shows the correct angle and the cutter wraps around the holder. The handle is around $5. I always used 3 passes on each cutter with the file, no more or less. This method worked pretty well for me and my chains lasted the longest too.

Bill
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #7  
Great link, GareyD!

Especially for guys like me who know very little about chainsaw chains... /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #8  
Using your round file follow the same angle and file each tooth the same number of times. If it is still fairly sharp try five full strokes for each tooth. If it is dull try 10 to 15 full strokes. Then move to the rackers in front of the teeth. Use a flat file and file the top of each racker down the same amount. Try 5 full strokes and see if this lets the teeth bite into the wood. You have to file the rackers down just enough to let the teeth actually cut into the wood other wise they hold the teeth just above the wood.
I usually sharpen the saw by standing it straight up while setting it on its handle and resting the bar between my legs as I sit on a block of wood. I do every other tooth to keep the angle right on one side and then turn the saw 180 degrees and get the teeth on the other side. Helps to mark the point where you start.
Once the saw is sharp you can keep it sharp by filing the chain this way about every second tank of gas or when the blade hits something hard like metal or dirt. Once you get used to it you can sharpen it in about five minutes and the saw will be much more productive, more than saving you the five minutes you invested.
When the chain stretches to far of when you really tear up and deform the teeth it will be time to buy a new chain.
 
   / Chainsaw Chain 101 #10  
I agree with the other guys about using a file to sharpen the chain a bit. I use 3 strokes when touching up the chain, (once per tank or so) and then 10 or so every 3 or so tanks. I ran into a deal at HF and bought about 15 files one day at .25 cents each. so I grabbed a hand full. they so far are lasting better than my oragan one did from wallyworld.

NOTE: only file one dirrection "PUSHING AWAY and INTO THE ANGLE" do not drag the file back and forth as that will not put an EDGE on the tooth. the cutting edge/angle should be filed so that when you PUSH the file into the chain the leading edge of the file hits the upright /vertical part and leaves the flat top of the tooth. I usually never worry about the rakers as they will ware faster than the tooth if you keep the teeth sharp... though over shapreming them means having to file the rakers too....

other NOTE:

DON'T PUSH DOWN very hard push BACK which actually LIFTS the chain/tooth a bit, this makes sure the file stays in contact with the flat top of the tooth and keeps you from fileing down into the tooth root area which will keep the top flat chissel of the tooth from getting a good sharp edge which is as if not more important than the vertical cutting board part...
also NOTE: if using a dremel be sure the rotation is correct for the chain just like the file the rotation should rotate over the top of the tooth flat. if it spins the other way it will leave a edge which will not stay sharp and can over heat when sharpening it too. (think of sharpening a knife the edge should be basacally cutting at an angle into the stone...)



Mark M
 
 
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