I have a 224 jinma. The 30 amp fuse for the ignition switch blows every time I try to start the tractor . I can start it by jumping across the starter but I have no gauges or lights. This fuse is the top one in the fuse block. I have the blade type fuses. There must be a direct short to that fuse. Do you have any sugestions? Thanks in advance Robby
Jinma will not start (blown fuse)
- Thread starter jaroban
- Start date
greg_g
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If it's a new tractor, several have been reported to have the wrong size system fuse installed. If you're replacing by color code alone, you might just be compounding the error. 30A fuses are typically green. But don't stop there, read the amperage rating on the fuse itself before installing the next one.
If the fuse itself isn't the problem, the next likely candidate is the ignition switch.
//greg//
If the fuse itself isn't the problem, the next likely candidate is the ignition switch.
//greg//
Soundguy
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Do the glow plugs on these units go thru that system fuse? If so.. that would be the next palce to look after the ignition switch.. etc..
Soundguy
Soundguy
greg_g
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Yup. The circuit is Battery > starter > system fuse > ammeter > ignition switch > glow plugs > groundSoundguy said:
//greg//
The tractor is three years old. I replaced all of the fuses with new ones when I got the tractor. I also did not include in my first post that I changed the ignition switch with the Ford replacement when I got the tractor. I suspect that the ignition switch is bad . Robby
bluechip
Veteran Member
Ah, the Ford switch, as I recall, energizes the glow plugs when cranking, whether you need them or not. I would guess the resistance of teh glow plugs has changed so that they may be drawing more current than before, causing the fuse to blow... first check that there is not a place where the buss bar for the glow plugs is shorted to the block. then I would disconnect the glow plugs and try it, if it does not blow, check resistance of each. you may just have a bad one, or two....
joerocker
Silver Member
I had the EXACT same problem...Everything worked fine UNTIL I actually cranked the engine. You know what it was? It was a wire at the "safety switch" at the clutch pedal! Somehow the wire had gotten twisted and was between the switch and the pedal. When I pushed in the clutch to start the engine it would short that wire taking out the main fuse. Look around CAREFULLY before going out and buying new parts...
greg_g
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The starter motor itself isn't fused. With a properly wired Ford cold start switch, only the glow plugs and the solenoid are drawing current through the system fuse while the starter is engaged. Yes, lotsa battery amps are being consumed, but only the glow plugs and solenoid are pulling amps through the system fuse. So the problem is in either the glow plug circuit or the solenoid circuit.jaroban said:
The Y385 is a hard starter anyway, so having the glow plugs energized at each start is not a bad thing. But for troubleshooting purposes, I'd take the glow plugs out of the picture temporarily. Easiest way to do that is by disconnecting the wire from the buss bar. Replace the system fuse, try starting again. If the engine is cold, don't worry if it doesn't start. The important thing is whether or not the system fuse holds.
//greg//