throw out bearing seized???

[grsr3]

This is a Kama TS254C. My clutch pedal suddenly got a lot of play in it. After adjusting it I looked around the area and noticed a tag I never saw before. I suspected there was something wrong because it went out of adjustment too fast.
Apparently you need to lube the throw out bearing periodically. Wish I knew that before. Only problem is there's no way to do it??? My machine has a little inspection cover that allows you to see inside the clutch area. I noticed the fingers that the throw out bearing pushes against had a thin layer of metal stuck on the tips. That could only mean the bearing is not turning on itself, and is spinning against the fingers, gradually grinding them away. They are not too badly damaged at this point but I got to get that bearing going or I am screwed---big time. I posted 3 pics on photobucket. One of the links is copied below. From that one you could see the other two. I searched and read some of the other posts about this issue but I don't have a rubber cover to grease. Nothing but the pedal shaft that a strange hole in the end---not a threaded grease fitting opening---I don't know what it is. Thought I was going to work on my Top N Tilt this week but it doesn't look that way now. Help.
George

DSCF1768.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[Stimw]

I wouldn't mess around with it, I had a Ford (POS) that started squealing. Before I could get it parked it ate up the forks and did a lot of damage.
With throwout bearings there is good and bad, no in between.

 

[Willl]

Ditto what slim said above.

Might as well start gathering parts now and plan for a tractor splitting party.

 

[bluechip]

These throw out bearings will fail if kept in contact with the clutch fingers. This happens by resting the foot on the clutch and taking up the required 1" of free travel of the pedal. or by the clutch lining wearing and eliminating the 1" of free travel. The lube hole on the side is for putting a little grease on the surface that the throw out bearing carrier slide on. some have use the pointed tip of teh chinese style grease gun do actually add grease to the throw out bearing (a sealed bearing but it does have a small vent hole that grease can be injected into with the appropriate gun). It is important on these tractors to not have your foot on the clutch pedal when in motion. the clutch linkage on the TS seris tractors have a tremendous mechanical advantage making it possible to reduce the contact pressure of the clutch pressur plate by sthe simple resting of a foot on the pedal. You m ay have noted how easy it is to push the clutch on a TS series tractor.

 

[DwayneB]

Dang, hate to hear that!!!

I do use the small chinese tip to add a little grease the bearing ever once and a while. A grease needle would fit in the hole also.

I don't like the bearing design, hope you can find a better one while the tractor is apart. I doubt mine will go 500 hrs even with the periodic lube.

 

[Soundguy]

Usually when i see a person refering to -any- tractor make/model as a (POS) I immediatly think operator error and/or bad maintenance.

In most of tractor history from the 40's and up I can only think of 2 individual units I would grace with the (POS) title.. one was a deer ( one of the 3xxx series ) and one was a ford ( 6000 to be exact )


Soundguy

I wouldn't mess around with it, I had a Ford (POS) that started squealing. Before I could get it parked it ate up the forks and did a lot of damage.
With throwout bearings there is good and bad, no in between.

 

[grsr3]

HOLEY MOLEY
Dwayne--
Check out this link---I found the hole. In a desperation move I sprayed some silicon spray around the crimped edge of the bearing and got it moving. It was obviously dry and loose. It moved about 3/4 turn then stuck. Just by luck it stopped right where the infamous hole was. I took a picture of it for everyone to see. I think this is an important maintenance point that everyone with one of these tractors should know about. Had I known I may not be in this situation. Already ordered the grease needle from Chip at Artrac. Will grease the **** out of the bearing and keep my fingers crossed.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g271/grsr3/DSCF1770.jpg

 

[psj12]

If this bearing has already stuck then all the grease in the world will not save it. if what you say is true about metal galling on the fingers and the bearing appearing loose is true than the bearing has failed. You risk much more expensive damage to your tractor by trying to make this work.
I was given a tractor with a similar problem. After the bearing failed the former owner continued to operate it. The bearing carrier was warped from the heat, the bearing fingers were bent and the fingers on the pressure plate were eaten away. Many parts were required to return this tractor to working condition.
Splitting the tractor seems like a PITA but it really isn't that difficult and you will be $$ ahead in the future.

 

[RonMar]

If this bearing has already stuck then all the grease in the world will not save it. if what you say is true about metal galling on the fingers and the bearing appearing loose is true than the bearing has failed. You risk much more expensive damage to your tractor by trying to make this work.

PSJ12 pretty much summed it up. You can replace it now, or replace it and a bunch of other parts later... Throwout bearing problms, like hydraulic leaks don't just get better. IF you turned the bearing and it physically jammed, then it is toast and has little bits of metal inside which is what jammed it. All the grease in the world will not fix this.

The throwout bearing has about the easiest job on the tractor. IT is only spun up and placed under load when you depress the clutch pedal. Any other time it is setting back there doing nothing. The only way it should fail is thru misuse/riding the clutch pedal keeping it engaged all the time, or thru mis-adjustment keeping it engaged all the time...

Good Luck

 

[grsr3]

OK guys---I gave up. Called Chip and tried to cancel order for grease gadget---too late--oh well another useless tool hanging around. Found a Jinma dealer about 2 hours from me that was very knowledgeable about splitting tractors and is going to do it for me. He will also replace the ground down fingers and adjust everything properly. Waiting on new fingers from Chip. Price was VERY reasonable and his estimate of about 8 hours was in line with what others are saying. Just got to take it to him. Also going to let him take the old bearing to local supplier and match it to a USA made bearing (Timken, SKF, etc.)
I know everybody thinks I rode the clutch but I read articles about these clutches when I first got the machine and was careful not to do that. I noticed while inspecting the bearing that one of the clutch fingers was much further away from the bearing than the other two. That MAY have caused this to happen--I guess we'll never know. Less than a hundred hours on this tractor--maybe less than 50 (hour meter doesn't work). You can be sure I will be checking that new bearing regularly.
Here's some food for thought---
My bearing supply guy says that sealed bearings come from the factory with about 50% grease inside. Adding more to this can actually create heat build up and do more harm than good. Of course if there is very little grease left in there I suppose it would be good to add some---but how would you know??? I am going to post this as thread so others know about this---it may help avoid a problem for someone. Thanks to all for the input. George