Gages dead (sometimes) Jinma 224

[TSMART]

Was using the tractor yesterday. The gages (instrument cluster) went dead.
So I shut the tractor down for an hour. Started it up, then the gages worked perfectly.

When I hit the headlight switch they went out again. So tomorrow I will pull the fuses (which were replaced with american fuses already)...clean out the fuse block with CRC.

Other than that, are there any other things you think I should check?

Jinma 224 (2005) 185 hours.

 

[RonMar]

All the gauge power goes thru the ignition switch ON position. These switches are not the greatest and that was bad on mine when delivered(gauges would intermittently drop out). I proved this with a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end connected between terminals 1 and 2 on the back of the switch. When the gauges quit, I shut down the engine, but didn't touch any switches and connected the jumper. As soon as I applied the jumper the gauges would come back.

I am woking on a easier to read schematic for the newer Jinma 200's with the single gauge panel. The last part I need to finish is the sensor wiring to the gauges which I will do later this fall if I get some time...

 

[3RRL]

In addition to what Ron said, sounds to me like you might have a loose connection somewhere. You might try going over each connection and tighten them up, grounds too. I had a similar problem and started wiggling wires when the cluster was dead. I got to the headlights and wiggled a ground wire and the instruments came one?

 

[TSMART]

I found the bad ground. It was on the main negative wire which was bolted to the frame. It was not lose, it was on very tight; but I as I loosend it, the tractor came alive again.

I got that tip from this forum; just as was stated, the frame was painted, and I guess there was some corrosion there.

If you want a good laugh, read my recent post "how to remove gage cluster?"

 

[3RRL]

So does that mean it is working now and the ground was the problem?
I had done that too, at least I thought I got the connection cleaned good enough, but I didn't.
My buddy Larry (Gugliols) came out to help me with an electrical problem. He took a chisel to remove ALL the paint build up and then used a "star" washer so it would bite into the metal when reconnecting the ground. I have not had any problems since then. So be sure your connection is as good as that or it may reappear.

 

[TSMART]

Yes, the tractor is up and running. Thats a great, inexpensive idea to add that star washer for some bite. Thanks.

 

[Red55]

I used ron's (from ranchhand) idea and mounted my ground under the bracket for the prefilter for the radiator. I like the star washer idea use to use them all the time @work for the ground connection with 208v 40amp machines. ED

 

[Dave_Lilly]

It has been my experience that by applying a coating of silicone dielectric grease on the battery terminals, the positive connection to the starter and the negative connection to ground that you can prevent oxidation at these points. Disconnect the cables, clean both the cable and the attachment point thoroughly, apply the silicone dielectric grease to both surfaces then reconnect the cables. A star washer may work for a while but it does not stop corrosion at the connectors.
Hope this helps.