Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs

   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #21  
Why did you put Dielectric grease on the bussbar for the injectors??
Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease.
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #22  
schmalts said:
Why did you put Dielectric grease on the bussbar for the injectors?? Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease.
Pretty sure you meant glow plugs. It's perhaps overkill on the bussbar, but won't hurt a thing. Dielectric grease is in fact non-conductive, but when you tighten everything down there is metal-to-metal contact. The grease gets displaced from the contact patch, but the area surrounding is protected from moisture.

What it will do is block enough oxygen to slow down corrosion resulting from galvanic reaction; corrosion caused by long term contact between dissimilar metals; copper bussbar - steel glow plug conductors - steel feed wire connector.

//greg//
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #23  
TractorGuy1 said:
I have a Jinma 224 with 90 hrs and have experienced the following:

First off I like the tractor over all with the exception of the following quirks

1. Leaking hoses and valve on the ZL20 loader and boy are those metric fittings expensive once you can find them. It is almost chepaer to find a used 2 spool controller with joystick and use common fittings.

2. Blown fuses. I am so tired of replacing the 30 amp fuse. I have gone over the wiring so many times but have never found the culprit. I even changed the ignition switch to the ford style with no luck.

3. Starter issues. The starter continues to engage only when it wants to. I have taken it to a starter shop and they bench tested it and everything checked out OK. But have not changed out the selenoid. I t seems to be worse in colder weather.


The two parts I was wanting to test out were the Injectors and glow plugs. What is the correct method of determining if any are faulty as I have been experiencing harder starting lately and suspect one or both of these.

Any help is apprecited on how to test these two parts.

I have had a problem with blown fuses on startup. I found that they are more likely to blow if you try to start with the headlights and backup light on. I haven't checked the power consumption of the lights but they probably draw a total of around 10-15 amps.If the glow plugs stay energized while the solenoid is engaged (with a Ford starter switch?) , and any auxilary circuits are closed , this may be close to the 30 amp limit.
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #24  
Schmalts.. i have to agree with Greg. Adding DE grease to electrical connections before you tighten them down is a GOOD thing. not a bad thing... this comes from a couple decades of electrical experience.

soundguy

greg_g said:
Pretty sure you meant glow plugs. It's perhaps overkill on the bussbar, but won't hurt a thing. Dielectric grease is in fact non-conductive, but when you tighten everything down there is metal-to-metal contact. The grease gets displaced from the contact patch, but the area surrounding is protected from moisture.

What it will do is block enough oxygen to slow down corrosion resulting from galvanic reaction; corrosion caused by long term contact between dissimilar metals; copper bussbar - steel glow plug conductors - steel feed wire connector.

//greg//
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #25  
Soundguy said:
Schmalts.. i have to agree with Greg. Adding DE grease to electrical connections before you tighten them down is a GOOD thing. not a bad thing... this comes from a couple decades of electrical experience.

soundguy

I also agree, been using the stuff on electrical connections in my job for many many years now(perhaps decades would be more appropriate). Your cable TV and phone work don't they? The last thing the cable repairman does before screwing together a connection is squirt in a little di-electric grease into the connector. The metal parts that touch still make electrical contact, but that union, as well as the RF integrity of the co-ax cable is sealed from the elements by the grease and stays clean and operational a lot longer than one without it. Without it, moisture enters the cable and wicks up and corrodes the metal braid and center conductor well up into the cable.

Many automotive plug wire sets come with a small squeeze tube of the stuff now days so you can squirt a little in each end of the cable to keep the connections at distributor cap and spark plug dry and clean/corrosion free. It also keeps the rubber boots on the cable ends soft and pliable.
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #26  
TractorGuy1 said:
I have a Jinma 224 with 90 hrs and have experienced the following:

Did you ever get your problems solved? I'm sure everyone would like to know.
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #27  
Did any of the answers help you to solve your hard starting problem?
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #28  
And still we wait for your reply as to whether any of the suggestions solved your problem. If they did, a reply as to which reply solved your problem could be useful for other people who have had this same problem.
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #29  
Dave_Lilly said:
And still we wait for your reply as to whether any of the suggestions solved your problem. If they did, a reply as to which reply solved your problem could be useful for other people who have had this same problem.

Some people jump on, get their answer and you never hear from them again. Such is the internet, lol.
 
   / Hard starting Jinma 224 with 90 hrs #30  
It's aprt of that entitlement type thinking I guess.. ( free lunch and all.. )

soundguy
 
 
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