In your first pic, the filter up high(orange) above the injector pump is the fuel filter. There is a bolt up on top of the filter mount to bleed air out of the system. Down on the side of the injector pump is a manual priming pump. It has a cap about 1.25" across. You unscrew it and it pops up under spring force to become a pump plunger. So once you turn the fuel back on at the tank after you change the fuel filter, you unscrew the air bleed on top of he filter and use that hand pump to pump the filter full of fuel and get ALL the air out of the new filter. Tap the filter and lines with a screwdriver to loosen any stuck airbubbles and induce them to rise to this vent. Once you get pure fuel out the vent, push the pump handle in one final time and re-screw it in place, then screw the filter air vent closed. If you don't get the air out, it will find it's way to the injector pump. The injectors fire by hydraulic pressure, that is why they are connected to the pump with hard lines. Any air that makes it here can cause an injector to stop firing which will require that the injector lines be bled(bigger pain in the ***, so don't ever run out of fuel
).
The filter down low and just visible above and behind the front tire in the first pic is the engine oil filter.
The hydraulic strainer is located in the hydraulic resovoir/3PH housing under the seat. If it has not been checked, you should remove and inspect it when you change out the hydraulic oil. These strainers are usually a brass screen and some have found holes in it. Because of the way it is assembled, it is possible to shake loose and be laying inpieces at the bottom of the sump, so a looksee is highly reccomnded. There is probably a pipe union right at the top that allows you to disconenect and remove the filter from the hard hydraulic suction line. the filter is removed by unbolting a 3 bolt flange plate on top of he reservoir. This is also a opportunity to wipe out any metal shavings that may have accumulated in the bottom of he hydraulic sump. If the pipe union/fitting goes back together properly after the filter inspection, the hydraulic pump should self prime after you refill the resovoir with new hydraulic oil. If hte pump dosn't start pumping fluid after 20-30 seconds of idle after the refill, you can open that pipe union, and using a rubber hose pressed into the end, pour some hydraulic oil down that suction line to help the pump prime. Since the pump will still have oil in it, this shouldn't be a problem.
Chris posted the first link I was thinking of. that is a real good one. But also if you havn't been there already, I would reccomend you visit John's Jinma website as it has a wealth of info and pics on these machines. Looking under the "Jinma Info" tab will show further links to maintenance and mod info.
johnstractor
