Light ?

[mffarmall]

I am not sure if I want to keep the rear light or upgrade it. I have read all the post and still not clear.

Is there a problem if I take off the old rear light and put a new 12v light from autozone or napa, or Big R?

[greg_g]

Originally Posted by mffarmall

I am not sure if I want to keep the rear light or upgrade it. I have read all the post and still not clear.

Is there a problem if I take off the old rear light and put a new 12v light from autozone or napa, or Big R?

You'll soon have to replace it, as the OE junk just can't take vibration. They rust fast too. I've already replaced both mine with auto parts store aftermarket lamps.

Don't be tempted to put any hog of a halogen on there though - without upgrading the circuit fuse anyway. It's a work light, so the cheap incandescent types work just fine. I personally prefer the flood to the spot.

You'll probably have to cut off the Chinese wiring connector. If the lamp is a one wire (chassis ground) type, put the Chinese ground wire (black) under the washer and nut that holds the lamp to the fender.

//greg//

[3RRL]

Jim,
Have you had trouble with it already? If not, why not just keep it going until it fails? Change it over then.
I must have good luck because I have over 500 hours on my Kama with no failure yet.
What I did instead is install additional lighting both forward and backwards for better night vision, but my stock rear work light still works fine.

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Originally Posted by mffarmall

I am not sure if I want to keep the rear light or upgrade it. I have read all the post and still not clear.

Is there a problem if I take off the old rear light and put a new 12v light from autozone or napa, or Big R?

The few replacements I have sold were due to being broken off.

Fiberglass or steel fenders will determine which replacement light you will need to ground the light.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

[mffarmall]

I'm just going to take off the old light and put in a new one. Dealer says that if the fuse blows just put in bigger fuse. The amount of light given off is week.

[Bob Rooks]

Originally Posted by mffarmall

Dealer says that if the fuse blows just put in bigger fuse.

Nice! Then the wire becomes the fuse. If the fuse blows, run heavier wire. The OEM wiring is almost a filament in itself.

[greg_g]

Originally Posted by mffarmall

Dealer says that if the fuse blows just put in bigger fuse.

Unless he knows the blown fuse was in fact undersized - the dealer is a bonehead. But to be fair, perhaps he was just trying to float a (bad) joke.

My KM454 has metal fenders, and came equipped with a 1-wire work light. It relied on the fender for ground, but was installed over paint. I scraped the paint down to bare metal, but vibration and rust kept interrupting ground. Eventually it failed, as did the warranty replacement. So bought a cheap 2-wire from AutoZone, and haven't had any more work light troubles since. My TS354C on the other hand, has plastic fencers and an OE 2-wire work light. Despite more vibration from the less rigid plastic, that light has never given me a lick of trouble.

So my recomendation is to get a 2-wire work light. Besides, there's no meaningful cost advantage to getting a 1-wire. Connect the black wire to a known good path to ground, avoiding paint and areas prone to recurring rust. That way it doesn't make a difference whether you have metal or plastic fenders. In cases where ground is not switched, you can usually share the tail light ground point with the work light ground wire.

//greg//

[mffarmall]

I'm guessing that my question is not about installing the light. I will ground it. But it's if the wire and fuse can handle a replacement light?

Take the old one off, put the new one in its place and ground it and connect it to the old wire for power.

[greg_g]

If your FarmPro has the same wiring harness as did my Jinmas, the work light shares a 10A fuse with the directional signals - and nothing else. So even a 55W halogen worklight should not overtax that circuit.

If your directional signals are working ok, then the fuse blows when you turn on the work light - you've got a short to ground somewhere on the worklight 12v supply wire. Track that down, or your replacement light will do the same thing.

//greg//

[mffarmall]

Thanks for the help?