Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 27
  1. #1
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,812
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    I know there are many threads about setting the valve lash and torquing the head bolts by now, but this one is for Loretta's 2008 Jinma 284 with the QC395T EPA conforming engine. Loretta helped me with the whole procedure and did several things herself.
    It might help some guys who have that engine?

    Prior to that, I recommend a few safety precautions and set up the tractor the night before so the engine is "cold" or ambient temperature when doing this adjustment.
    -Transmission in neutral.
    -Set parking brake.
    -Move the fel and bucket up and out of the way and prop it up with restraints.
    -Turn off the fuel.
    -Pull the "kill switch" out and hold it back with vice grips.
    -Disconnect the ground at the battery terminal, not the frame.
    You don't want to "accidentally" start the tractor.

    I don't know about you guys, but I found it extremely difficult to get in there to do any wrenching. Everything is so much smaller and tighter than my Kama 554. Even trying to take off the alternator shield was undoable for me (couldn't get to the bottom bolt). I was planning on tightening the alternator belt and use that nut to turn the crankshaft, but couldn't do it that way. I had the bucket resting on the toothbar and the fel partially up, but I would recommend having it all the way up and propped/lock up there so you can move around better.

    Since it was so cramped and tight to get to the nuts and bolts, I started by taking off the power steering and air filter bracket. Remove the air hose to the filter. Then I drained the radiator and removed it. Loretta had a chance to thoroughly clean it while it was off.



    Once that was out of the way, I cleaned off the front of the crankshaft pulley to reveal the timing marks on it to find top dead center as per the instructions in the manual. You can verify the marks by removing the inspection cover that exposes the flywheel and there are corresponding marks on it too. I was able to use a large wrench right on the crankshaft pulley nut to rotate the engine.



    I removed the fuse box to get it out of the way and then the valve cover to expose the valves. But first, I disconnected the compression relief lever at the back of the valve cover, nearest the cab. In order to re-torque the head bolts (8 of them) you have to remove the rocker shaft assembly. Remove the nuts (3) and bolts (3) evenly since it is under pressure from the valve springs. Then lift the assembly off and put it in a clean place. You will replace it in the same fashion when setting the valve lash later.



    Then you can get a good torque wrench in there to re-torque the headbolts. There are several thoughts of how to do this. Some guys loosen them up, clean and then re-torque. I personally only re-torqued them, not loosening them first. My thoughts are they only need to be tight per spec and I don't want to ruin a head gasket accidentally. I found only 2 head bolts that moved. I used 125 ft/lbs on the torque wrench. Her manual calls out 150-170Nm. (110-125ft/lbs)



    Ok, so now you can replace the rocker shaft assembly. On Loretta's tractor, I noted when removing the nuts and bolts from the shaft assembly that they were not very tight. In re-torquing those, I only used 36ft/lbs (50Nm) because I was afraid to strip them. I know some guys use more than that, but since they were not even that tight when I took them off, I decided to use that figure.
    Anyway, then you can get to adjusting the intake and exhaust valves on each cylinder.

    Start by finding top dead center on cylinder #1, which is nearest the radiator. The manual says to line up the "O" mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer. On her engine, the valve closest to the the radiator is the intake valve and the one next to it is the exhaust valve. You can verify this by rotating the engine to see the how the valves work. Rotate the engine clockwise looking from the front of the tractor. The vanes on the radiator fans will help you verify that too. When you rotate the engine so that intake valve just starts to close, and just before the exhaust valve just starts to open, that's top dead center. After "eyeballing" the valves, I checked the crankshaft "O" markings and, indeed, it lined up with that position, and also the flywheel mark to make sure ... it all lined up.
    Plus, that is exactly what her instructions in the manual said to do.

    Then you can set the valve lash on both intake and exhaust valve for cylinder #1. Loosen the nut above the push rod and adjust the gap between the valve stem and rocker arm. Use a screw driver to adjust the rod until you feel the feeler guage slide smoothly in between. Hold the screw driver steady and re-tighten the locking nut and re-check the gap. Her manual called out 0.20-0.25mm (.008"-.010") for the intake valve clearance. I used the middle tolerance and used a 0.23mm feeler guage. The exhaust clearance is called out at 0.25-.030mm (.010"-.012") so I used a 0.28mm feeler guage.

    After setting cylinder #1, rotate the crankshaft 240 degrees clockwise and do cylinder #3, which is the one nearest the cab. Then rotate another 240 degrees to do cylinder #2 (in the middle). That is the firing order on this engine. Each time the crankshaft was rotated, the pointer lined up with another mark on the crankshaft pulley as well. So we were on the right track.

    When you're done, put everything back together again. I had a re-usable rubber valve gasket but you might a new one or need to make one. So be prepared for that. when you replace the valve cover, be sure to check if the little coupler for the compression relief lines back up. You can check it by moving the compression relief valve (once the valve cover is back on) by feeling the shaft rotate through the oil fill hole on top of the valve cover. You can see where the feeler guage is in the photo and how to adjust the valves with screwdriver and wrench.



    Also, before I removed the rocker shaft assembly I had checked the valve lash first and all the valves were super tight. I mean really tight like I could barely get a .003" feeler guage in there! Some were net and NONE of them were loose! Maybe that's why she could never rev the engine up to high rpms. She would always come up just short of the green zone, or about 2100 rpm max before. I was hoping this valve adjustment would help that.
    I started the tractor and let it warm up a bit. It was noticeably clacking a little more than before, just like my Kama did. Then I reved it up and it went right past the green zone, in fact right to 2400rpm right on the nose.
    I followed the instructions in the manual and it must be alright since the results were good.



    Rob-
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  2. #2
    Platinum Member OKnewguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    502
    Location
    Edmond, Oklahoma (OKC)
    Tractor
    Jinma 224

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    It is always a pleasure to read your post! I have a 04 224, and whenever I check out the newer ones like Lorreta's I get jealous. They sure have made many good changes over the years, like the new hood, the better battery placement, and I believe the spin on hydro filter. I really love the hood that totally flips everything up out of the way. Btw nice repair on your Kama steering.
    Dave

  3. #3
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,409
    Location
    Northwest, WA

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Rob, why did you do all this ?

    I know the reason behind the retorque (beings an old small block chevy rebuilder).

    But I've never heard of anybody doing it to their tractor, and on this forum yet, not once.
    ::Sent from a standard desktop keyboard::

    My Photobucket

  4. #4
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,812
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Thank you Dave,
    I try to post what I do just like those who did the same for us when I was looking/searching how to do stuff. Maybe it will be of help to someone with the same engine? Her Jinma sure is sweet. It's got a lot of refinements even over my 2005 Kama. They've come a long way making them better.
    Thanks for checking out the Kama repair too!
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  5. #5
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,812
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Willl View Post
    Rob, why did you do all this ?

    I know the reason behind the retorque (beings an old small block chevy rebuilder).

    But I've never heard of anybody doing it to their tractor, and on this forum yet, not once.
    Chinese tractor owners generally do their own maintenance where valve lash adjustment and head bolt re-torque are listed in the manual to perform on a schedule.
    Maybe the other guys don't post what maintenance they do on their tractors but I do. I was under the assumption valve lash and head bolt re-torque had been discussed on this forum before too?
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  6. #6
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,409
    Location
    Northwest, WA

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Quote Originally Posted by 3RRL View Post
    and head bolt re-torque are listed in the manual to perform on a schedule.
    I guess this is where I'm getting confused. I searched a number of tractor manuals (mostly JD) and never found any mention of head bolt retorque. Valve lash yes, bolt retorque no.

    Is this service procedure more 'brand' related ?

    If this isn't in our manuals, should we be checking it anyway ?, if so, at about what hours ?

    Is there a difference in head gaskets from your Jinma to my JD ?
    (trying to find a reason why its listed in yours and not mine)

    What other tractor brands recommend head bolt retorque ?
    (this ? goes out to everybody else)
    ::Sent from a standard desktop keyboard::

    My Photobucket

  7. #7
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,812
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Willl View Post
    I guess this is where I'm getting confused. I searched a number of tractor manuals (mostly JD) and never found any mention of head bolt retorque. Valve lash yes, bolt retorque no.

    Is this service procedure more 'brand' related ?

    If this isn't in our manuals, should we be checking it anyway ?, if so, at about what hours ?

    Is there a difference in head gaskets from your Jinma to my JD ?
    (trying to find a reason why its listed in yours and not mine)

    What other tractor brands recommend head bolt retorque ?
    (this ? goes out to everybody else)
    First Will, I'm SURE there is difference between your JD and our Jinma. Quality control of Chinese stuff is still lacking a decade behind IMHO. That goes for material selection used in their construction as well. There steels are not as good as ours either because for similar reasons.
    Then there's the dealer factor, where you have literally thousands of JD dealers in the States, there are relative only a few Chinese tractor dealers around. And they are really guys who import the tractor and parts so they are not 100% in control of that either.
    I would follow your manual and do what is suggested for your brand tractor. Plus, if your dealer services your tractor, he may have head bolt re-torque on HIS list of things to do, not necessarily on your list? I dunno. Don't forget that we paid for the entire tractor (brand new) almost as much as some complete grapple set ups costs that I've seen posted here.

    You get what you pay for, but it's more important as to if it fits the bill and what you can do with it that counts. I've managed to make alterations to make our tractors do everything we've wanted. Doing our own maintenance is part of it. I'm also fortunate that I can do whatever repairs myself if there are failures ... something I anticipated and figured into the reason for buying what I did. For me, there are just some things I think I can do and am willing to do vs buying more expense and better stuff. That is to say I'm not a cheapskate, since I do own some quality stuff too that I don't work on myself but wanted top quality good stuff. Example, I just had my Rolex GMT serviced and geez, the bill was $2200 bucks!!!! I have a couple of them. And that goes for my rifles and shotguns too ... Weatherbys and Brownings. But there are just some things that I think aren't as important to pay top dollar for, like my tractors that I beat the crap out of and can fix myself.
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  8. #8
    Veteran Member GuglioLS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,112
    Location
    Edgewood, NM USA
    Tractor
    Jinma 354, Ford 1953 NAA Golden Jubilee, Komatsu Bulldozer

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Hey Rob,

    Great write up on the Valve lash adjustment and head bolt re-torque. I'm sure Jinma owners will appreciate the detail and photos to follow for future reference. Checking the head bolt torque sure beats blowing a gasket. It's no big deal, easy to do and cheap insurance. I mean as long as you have the valve cover off to set the valves, how hard is it to remove the rocker arm assembly? what is it? four nuts? big deal. Before adjusting the valves on mine I too removed the rocker arm to check the head bolt torque, sure there are as many opinions as there are "experts" on how that should be done, Like you, I put a torque wrench to them and got two to tighten up ever so slightly.

    I wonder how many have even bothered to set the valve lash, let alone take the time to document it such as you have with a detail procedure and pictures. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and to remind us that the valves and head bolts should be adjusted and checked. I just love my 354, it has exceeded all my expectation and all for 1/3 rd the price. Now that Ive saved so much on my tractor maybe it's time for me to get that Rolex I've always wanted.

    BTW (Off topic) - Wow, amazing Loretta has 100 hours on her tractor already? She just got it in March of this year right? Plus she works a day job, and you guys commute back and forth to Rancho once a week. Not only that you've adorned it with some custom hydraulic add ons, re-engineered the FEL bucket geometry so as to suite your specific needs, just to name a few. Which brings up another point I like about these tractors. No one is afraid to "chop and channel" their tractor to personalize it. Like, how many "Other Brand" tractor owners would do this to their dash panel to add a couple of kubota Cup holders, a clock, Air filter minder and a volt meter? Just chop up the dash without hesitation like this:






    No worries about scratching expensive unobtainable special color paint, just go to wal-mart and get a 99 cent rattle can and your good to go. . Jinma - Gota Love it

    Larry
    Last edited by GuglioLS; 12-08-2008 at 03:13 AM. Reason: Correct spelling
    My Fortune cookies:
    If you have to ask if you can do something, you probably can't.
    Life is short, especially if you forget to wake up the next day.
    He who hurries wastes time.
    If you must select between two evils, choose the one you haven't tried before.
    Tractor hydraulics is not rocket science.

  9. #9
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,812
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    Ha Larry, love your post !!!
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

  10. #10
    Super Member 3RRL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    6,812
    Location
    Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
    Tractor
    55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284

    Default Re: Valve Lash Adjustment 2008 Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

    UPDATE: !! Important correction !!
    I received a very polite PM from rayh. Here's what he said:

    Very good job on showing valve setting. I noticed a little mistake that would give you the wrong valve clearance. When you set your engine up to TDC. You watched the valve change from exhaust to intake. The engine is on exhaust stroke and should be rotated 360 degres to bring it up on compression stroke. Watch for the mark again on pulley, but the valves will not being moving. This is the correct place to start your setting procedure. The rest of your explanation is right on track.

    Thanks for catching that Ray!
    This means a couple of changes from what I said earlier.
    On this QC395Tengine, as you rotate the crankshaft in the clockwise direction (looking from the front of the tractor to the rear) you will see the valves work. There is a point during the rotation where one valve closes and the other one just starts to open. It is the EXHAUST valve that is closing (finishing the exhaust stroke). The valve just starting to open is then the INTAKE valve. At this point the "O" marking on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the pointer.

    1) But you have to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees to the same "O" mark on the pulley to be at TDC of the COMPRESSION stroke. The valves will not be moving as you rotate the crank shaft to this "O". This was not explained in the manual and stupid me, I missed it ... sorry.
    So do that and set your valve lash at that point. Then proceed in the same fashion to do the other cylinders rotating 240 degrees clockwise for #3 next and another 240 degrees for #2 after that. There are marks on the crankshaft pulley that will line up when the crankshaft is turned 240 degrees each time.

    2) This also means the valve I thought was intake is really the exhaust valve. The first valve nearest the radiator on cylinder #1 is the EXHAUST valve and the one next to it is the INTAKE valve. The exhaust valve always exhausts and starts to close just prior to the intake valve opening.

    3) Additionally, that also means that the compression relief opens the INTAKE valves and not the exhaust valves like I thought. You can see in the photos above which set of valves the compression relief operates. They are the 2nd set of valves for each cylinder which are the intake valves.

    I sincerely apologize for my mistake and appreciate rayh giving me the opportunity to let me correct this procedure rather than flaming me. Even though Loretta's tractor ran great in the manner I adjusted the valves per my first post, I will re-do the adjustment this week when we get back to 3R. I'm pretty sure if it ran with little or zero valve lash before, being adjusted with a little more valve lash hasn't hurt it. I'll post the results of it when done.
    I know some of you will be doing your valve lash adjustment soon so please follow the corrected procedure.
    Thanks,
    Rob-
    Rob-
    ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be...
    Member of the Month

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.