Rookie Jinma Owner...

fartypants · Apr 26, 2009

Hi, Retired and moved to France... small plot with trees and paddock... Purchased a new 2007 model Jinma 244E (particular to Europe for road registration etc.) I have 30 hours on the clock. At about twenty hours I tried to start it but it failed to turn over, it warned me that a fuse had blown by making a buzzing sound. On checking the fuses I found that the fuse marked 'ammeter' had blown. I changed it and it started and ran as normal. About 28 hours the same thing happened again. I changed the fuse and off we went again. Yesterday I finished topping my field and returned to the barn. After something to eat I tried to start the tractor and it would not turn over again. I checked the fuses and all were OK. Help. I am not a mechanic and can only observe or do what I am told to do. I have taken a cursory look underneath for damaged or disconnected wires but can see nothing. The battery is fully charged and all electrics work OK. Can anyone offer any advise before I call in professional help. Thanks.

greg_g · Apr 26, 2009

On those imported to North America, I believe that would be referred to as the system fuse. It's the only fuse in the box that's not carrying regulated voltage. Unless you've mad some electrical modifications, there are no factory devices that - if working properly - should draw over 30 amps. And for regulated circuits, those lesser rated fuses should blow first anyway.So I believe what you're looking for is a problem in the unregulated wiring.

One side of the system fuse is connected to the starter solenoid, typically on the same post as the battery cable. The other side goes through the ammeter on the way to the power post on the keyswitch. There is more unregulated wiring after the switch, but for now let's stop here and ask -

is it in fact the 30A system fuse that blows?
if yes, are you actually replacing it with another 30A fuse?
have you made any modifications of your own to the electrical system?
what position is the keyswitch in when the fuse blows?
is it possible for you to upload a copy of your wiring diagram?

//greg//

fartypants · Apr 26, 2009

Hi Greg, Thanks for you reply... in reply to you questions:
Yes it is the 30 amp fuse marked 'Ammeter'
Yes replaced with similar 30 amp fuse
No modifications at all
I'm not sure what position the key has been in when fuse blown... I only find out when trying to start. It might still run with fuse blown so could have happened during normal running
Yes, plus two photos.
Greg thanks for your time...
Regards Phil.

greg_g · Apr 26, 2009

Ok, good photos. There's a minor hindrance to troubleshooting here, in that you've got the new fuse box and the old wiring diagram. Note the diagram does not show the glow plug circuit as being independently fused. But we might be able to work around that. This may not work on a cold engine that need glow plug assist, but should work on a hot day - or on a warm engine.

Even if you don't use them, it's necessary to go past the glow plug position on the keyswitch when starting the engine. A short in the glow plug circuit used to blow the system fuse while the key was simply being turned to START. Simply pulling the preheater fuse temporarily will isolate that circuit from the rest of the tractor wiring. If the problem goes away, you know the cause is in the glow plug wiring. If the problem does not go away, troubleshooting moves on.

From what I see in your photo, the white wire on the starter solenoid feeds unregulated voltage to the system fuse. The red wire goes to a clutch interlock switch under the left floorboard before continuing on to the START post on the keyswitch. The starter housing itself is ground - which passes through the frame on its way back to the (-) post on the battery. That basically completes the unregulated electrical loop.

Many electrical problems originate on the frame end of the (-) battery cable. It's often installed over a thick coat of paint. Good idea to remove the bolt, clean the lug, grind down to bare metal on the frame, weatherproof and reassemble. Also follow both the red and white wires along the paths I described, and look for worn insulation that could cause intermittent shorts between the conductor and some metal tractor part.

//greg//

Diamondpilot · Apr 26, 2009

As Greg has stated check all connections and clean and remount the ground connections.

Chris

fartypants · Apr 26, 2009

Thanks Greg and Hi to Diamondpilot,
Thanks both.... Greg I have followed your instructions and removed the pre heat fuse and tried to start... it will not turn over just continues to click from somewhere near to the fuse box. I have put the headlights full on and tried turning the key to starting position and note that they do not show any fall in strength. I have checked the live side from the battery terminal to the starter... it is live and has 100% contact. I have done the same to the negative side and this is 100% clean and sound. The only bit I have not been able to do at this stage is to follow the red wire through to the clutch area. I have looked underneath around the clutch area and back to the clutch pedal but am unable to trace it...I think I will have to remove the instrument panel and look down into the area at the top of the clutch linkages where the spring is to see if I can see the switch. I will have to do that tomorrow as I am unable to do it now. Thanks again for your time and trouble... I will keep you posted. Cheers Phil.

studor · Apr 26, 2009

Farty -- if you know how to bridge the starter (big connector on starter to little, if it just spins big -- to other little) try that and see if it starts. MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS in NEUTRAL) If it does start in that fashion, I would bet on the clutch safety switch being the problem. They are often positioned incorrectly and the insides get crushed giving an intermitant problem where the fuse blows when you try and start it. Eventually the switch just fries and you cannot start period (even with a good fuse). If you disconnect the two wire trailer connector that connects the clutch safety switch and bridge it with a piece of wire you can determine if it is the switch (again MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL FOR ALL OF THIS -- IT CAN START IN GEAR -- NOT GOOD

)

3RRL · Apr 26, 2009

fartypants,
I know that problem studor refers is fairly common.
On my wife's 284 Jinma, that little wire that goes to the clutch safety switch fried. The wire (on hers) ran down the left side of the dash down the fuel tank support and down to where the clutch bottoms out. In her case, the switch was crushed too. I don't recommend it, but I have hardwired (eliminated the switch) for the time being, with a heavier gage wire. I will replace the clutch switch with one from Napa or the like. Hope you can trace the problem soon.
Here are a couple photos of the wire.
Rob-

fartypants · Apr 27, 2009

Hi Guys, Thanks for all your replies... You are the men.... I took the instrument panel out and looked down towards the top of the clutch and saw a couple of pinched wires they had been trapped in the spring mechanism. I pulled them up towards me and sure enough one was cut through completely and the other was only attached by a couple of strands. I cut and squared them off and put them through a plastic connector. I then tried to start the tractor and bingo..... you chaps are brill. She was purring as before. Thanks to you all... I have learned a great deal from you in the short time this thread has been alive. You do a great service for us that are not so knowledgeable in this field. I admire you all. Although I would like to be in touch with you all again I suppose that means I'm having trouble... Well I will keep monitoring your valuable knowledge and continue to learn until one day I may be able to assist others... Cheers buddies.... Phil.

Diamondpilot · Apr 27, 2009

Boy, that would have been the last place I would have looked. That is a new one. The usual guilty parties are the bad grounds or connections and the clutch safety switch.

Chris