DF-354 : Ignition Switch Substitution?

[mpaschetto]

Hi Guys,

I was using my tractor yesterday, and shut it off to take a break.
When I tried to fire it up again, I broke off the key in the ignition switch....

I've read about the Ford ignition switch on this forum, has anyone installed
one in their DF-354? Is there another switch (besides the factory switch)
that will work in this tractor?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

 

[3RRL]

I'm sure a Ford ignition switch is available for your DF.
However, breaking the key off is no reason to switch to Ford. It's not like the ignition switch failed electrically, right? I may be wrong about this, but I've not read where the DF has problems with their switch? You might be better suited to get that key out and use the spare key or get an OEM replacement switch.
Rob-

 

[mpaschetto]

Hi Rob,

Nope, the switch didn't fail electrically.

However, I'd like to avoid another episode like the one I experienced
yesterday....namely, losing an entire half day of work because the
chinsy Chinese ignition key broke off against the force of the Hurculean
return spring inside of the O.E. ignition switch!

I guess I'm hoping that the Ford ignition switch utilizes a 'beefier' key
blank and/or a lighter return spring.

Does anyone know if that is the case?

Mike

P.S.: I didn't get a spare key with the tractor, and never had one made....my bad!

 

[greg_g]

I guess I'm hoping that the Ford ignition switch utilizes a 'beefier' key
blank and/or a lighter return spring.

Does anyone know if that is the case?

Mike

P.S.: I didn't get a spare key with the tractor, and never had one made....my bad!

They're pretty low tech, I think someone recently posted about finding a lawn mower key that fit.

If you have a pre-heater, the Ford switch is ok - but not all of them are actually made by Ford. The low end Ford cold start switches come from China and India. These are in the $10-$20 range. Proper Ford (or New Holland) switches cost upwards of $35, but are a helluva lot sturdier.

If you don't have a pre-heater, any old $10 starter switch from an auto parts store will work

//greg//

 

[GuglioLS]

.......

SNIP....SNIP...

I guess I'm hoping that the Ford ignition switch utilizes a 'beefier' key
blank and/or a lighter return spring.

Does anyone know if that is the case?

Mike

Mike,

To answer your question, yes the "Ford" key and switch are superior to the OEM ones. I broke my key hitting it with my knee getting off the tractor. You need not loose a second of work because of a broken key, just use a screw driver across the solenoid & battery terminal, it should fire right up. Just make sure it's in neutral though, or bad things could happen

Here are the details for the switch:
The part # is - A-E7NN11N501AB, google it, you should get some hits on where to purchase.
A-E7NN11N501AB - Google Search

This one is only 13 bucks -> CLICK HERE but shipping is 14

New "Ford" Switch connections:
Pin / connection
1 / off connect to hot (+12 )
2 / Run 1 accessories N/C or connect to any axillary circuits
3 / to glow plugs
4 / Run 2 or ON connect to lights
5 / starter solenoid (through clutch safety switch)


Here are the contacts vs key position:
Key position starting all the way CCW

0 - OFF (no connection) except +12 to the switch
1 - (1 click CW) Pin 1+2 (Accys only)
2 - (2 clicks CW) Pin 1+2+4 (Run position lights+accys)
3 - (3 clicks CW Spring return back to 2) 1+3 (Glow Plugs only)
4 - (4 clicks CW Spring return back to 2) 1+3+5 (start+glow plugs)

Larry

 

[mpaschetto]

Hi Larry,

That's EXACTLY the type of information I was looking for, thanks a bunch!

Mike

 

[attaboy]

Hi Guys,

I was using my tractor yesterday, and shut it off to take a break.
When I tried to fire it up again, I broke off the key in the ignition switch....

I've read about the Ford ignition switch on this forum, has anyone installed
one in their DF-354? Is there another switch (besides the factory switch)
that will work in this tractor?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

Any Cat dealer will fix you up for about 25-30 clams. I put one in my Super 88 H (grader). The keys are not only incredibly strong, but also very easy on the finger/thumb .. generous overmolded surface area. my 2 cents

 

[mpaschetto]

Any Cat dealer will fix you up for about 25-30 clams. I put one in my Super 88 H (grader). The keys are not only incredibly strong, but also very easy on the finger/thumb .. generous overmolded surface area. my 2 cents

Attaboy,

Can you be a little more specific?
If I head on over to my local Cat dealer, what application should I have them look up?
Even better, would you still have the receipt with the Cat part number??

Mike

 

[jamescf]

With regard to switch substution - I have a Ford 3000 gas and this switch does not work for me. Unlike the switch described, mine - the same part # has onlyt one spring back position. Otherwise the contack arrangement is as desctibed.

I have it wired :
1) 12+
2) coil
3) starter
4) lights and gages
5) never connected to 1

My problem is that whrn in the starting position, key position 4, I have no power to the coil.

 

[greg_g]

With regard to switch substution - I have a Ford 3000 gas and this switch does not work for me.

the switch being discussed is for diesel engines, the other spring-return position reserved for pre-heater (glow plugs or manifold heater).

But you should be able to make it work for a gasoline engine without using the glow plug connection. Be aware though, that not all Ford cold start (diesel) switches are configured like Larry described above. You really need to put a multimeter on yours to confirm which connections are made in which switch positions. Or else just trade it in for the gasoline engine switch.

//greg//