procedure for for hydraulic repair

[jaroban]

This was done on my jinma 224 ( 30 min )
This will help you change the main seals in the piston under your seat.
1. Lift front of tractor eight or so inches off the ground.
2. drain hydraulic fluid the drian is the botom left bolt on the rear cover part # 160.55.140-1 (46)
Remove rear cover
You will have to move the lift arms up and down part # 160.55.013 (30) to remove the folowing parts.
3.Remove pin 4x40 Part #gb/t91-1986 (34)
4.Remove bolt m8x12 gb/t5783-1986(32)
5.Slid pin over to the side Part #160.55020-1 (33)
6.Remove piston rod part # 160.55.132-1 (27)
7.Insert a 5 mmx.08 screw welded to a shaft in the back of the piston part # 160.55.130 (18)And pull the piston out
8.Replace o ring 63x5.7 part gb3452.1-1992 (15) and the two plastic back up spacers a63x2 part # gb3452.1-1992
9. put grease on the o ring and reverse the procedure.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks, that will save many time and frustration.

Chris

 

[philpeg]

Is there a diagram showing the procedure of how to remove the hydraulic system piston on a jinma 354 lift assy?

 

[RonMar]

I would add to step 7, to put the hydraulic lift control lever in the lift position to break the hydraulic suction that will occur when you try to pull the piston out of the cylinder...

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I realize the original post is four years old, but does anyone know why he recommended raising the front of the tractor? Is it to get all the fluid out? I bought an oil extractor pump this summer (this one, in fact: Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor OIL01 : Amazon.com : Automotive) and it works so well I don't think I'll ever try to drain oil again, pumping it out is faster and a whole lot neater.

I'm also interested in the difference between the 254 and the 354, I think I may have to do this soon. My lift has become wildly unpredictable, in the lift position sometimes it lifts a lot, sometimes hardly at all. Sometimes it will jump around when it's all the way up.

 

[RonMar]

Yep, it is to help get the fluid out...

 

[erj]

Quicksand,
Does that device work well on hydraulic and gear oil?
Thank you,
RonJ

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Quicksand,
Does that device work well on hydraulic and gear oil?
Thank you,
RonJ

I would estimate the tube is about 3/16" in diameter. Generally the less viscous the oil the better it works. Warming the oil up to operating temperature helps. A thick oil takes longer. I just changed the gearbox oil in my rotary mower (80w-90) and it was at ambient temperature, about 70F. I gave the pump about 20 strokes, put the tube in, and went off and did something else for about 20 minutes. When I came back the gearbox was empty, not a drop on the floor.

I think it helps to put the pump lower than the oil sump, then gravity helps too.

The only thing I don't like about that pump is it takes three hands to start pumping, two hands on the pump and one to keep the tube in the sump. But once you get the oil flowing it tends to stay in place.

 

[azsuns]

jinma 254 w rear lift problems

Was this conversation because he was having lift problems. My 03 farm pro/ Jinma is having the same problem.

When its cold and full of hyd fluid it will lift w rpms and hold but with a few minutes grading it will just lift a little then not at all. I suspect the previous owner ran it low on hyd fluid because it had some good leaks in the fel control and fel cylinders. I fixed those, but still cant work the rear lift. Can anyone tell me what I should check or do.
New tractor owner. Also its a 2524 3 cyl janmar eng

 

[greg_g]

You likely need a lift cylinder repair kit. They consist of little more than O-rings and wipers, so they're not expensive. Can be a little messy replacing them though. Pg2 here can help.

//greg//