Breaking front driving shaft on Jimna 284

[Affordable]

I have the tire and rims sets,come to think of it I may even have a used set,I also have any other part you may need.You can give me a call or e-mail if you are interested

tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com



Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

[Iron Horse]

Originally Posted by chermsen

I'm going to try and get an original set of tires and rims (I unfortunately sold my old set when I got the new set),

Just keep this in mind before you spend more money , if the rims are offsettable 2 piece type , a wider tyre with the rims in a central offset position is kinder on axle stubs and bearings than narrow tyres @ their widest offset . It's all about leverage and the further out that leverage point is from center , the more damage can be done .

I'm always lifting too much with my loader , I usually look down at the front tyres before I move . If the tyres are bagged out at the bottom it means I have reduced their diameter which is the same as fitting smaller front wheels . I switch off 4X4 and engage the rear diff lock to give me traction to reverse out of the heap . If it's muddy I don't bother as I know at least one wheel will slip an unload the "wind up" and I leave it in 4X4 . I have forgotten to switch off 4X4 a couple of times on hard ground and have reversed back before doing so , 4X4 then disengages with a bang which does the drive line no good .

[SPIKER]

I did something similar several years ago now, that kept me from finishing my barn floor on time as I was down broken for a few weeks as I got just the parts i thought i needed and decided to replace the bearings as well as the axle stub. the 4 wheel drive will twist that axle stub off pretty fast, I was moving sand mix that wasnt wet but when digging flat into bottom of pile I must have curled the bucket down enough to dig into the underlaying well compacted clay. I was switching from 4x4 to 2 wheel drive as I picked and dumped the sand. moving it some 50 yards between pile and garden area. costs were ok to live with regarding what stuff usually costs for a normal tractor...

I have the info posted here someplace with pics and all of my ordeal...
One metal seal was tore up in shipping the that had to be replaced which Tommy sent right away, with the new bearings I wanted to replace after the torque twisted off the axle.

Mark M

[Rich Waugh]

I can't agree that tires being squashed down change their effective ratio. That may change the radius of the tire at the point of contact, but it doesn't change the rolling circumference of the tire, which is what affects the ratio between front and rear gearing. The shape of the tire circumference has changed but the circumference itself is the same.

Setting your ties to the widest stance does add a bit to the loading on the axle stubs due to increased leverage, but I believe this is within the design limits of the equipment, as the manufacturer shows all the possible configurations. The trade off in increased stability is well worth the possible diminution of safety margin in the axle stubs and bearings, I believe. Your mileage may vary, as they say, but I spend a lot of time on hills where i want all the stability I can get. Worn out bearings can be replaced cheaply - a rollover, broken back or neck are much more costly.

A front end loader is for moving stuff, not digging it out, carving hillsides, or prying stuff out of the ground. Of course we all do some of those things, but you do it knowing that you're on thin ice and take all the possible precautions. If you do have to use the loader as a dozer, you take very small bites and peel away the side of the hill a very little at a time or you break things. Ramming the bucket into immovable objects WILL break things - either the loader itself or the tractor. If you have to move heavy loads in the bucket, make a rear counterweight you can hang on the 3-point hitch to take some of the load off the front drive train. A block of concrete the right size works fine. I just leave my brush hog on and that handles all but the heaviest loader loads. Anything too heavy to be counterbalanced by the 'hog is probably too much for the loader to handle safely.

Good luck with getting things squared away! Tommy at Affordable tractor is a great guy who will do all he can to help you out if you can' tget what you need locally.

RIch

[Iron Horse]

So two identical tyres , one tyre @ 10 psi will travel at the same speed and distance as a tyre @ 30 psi ? NOT .

[Sweden-Art]

Originally Posted by Iron Horse

So two identical tyres , one tyre @ 10 psi will travel at the same speed and distance as a tyre @ 30 psi ? NOT .

100% correct. Will NOT

[Turbo]

What make/size loader do you use.

[Rich Waugh]

Originally Posted by Iron Horse

So two identical tyres , one tyre @ 10 psi will travel at the same speed and distance as a tyre @ 30 psi ? NOT .

Where did you get that from what I said? I said the circumference of the tire is going to be the same whether it is perfectly circular or distorted. Now, if you under-inflate a tire with no cords it will be smaller than one you over-inflate, of course. But you're not going to be able to make a significant difference in the rolling circumference of a tire with aramid or steel cords, I don't think, whether at 10 psi or 30 psi. Those cords just don't allow the tire to change much. Try it and see. Now, what I said applies to tires - I don't know about tyres, them foreign things might be all different. (smile)

Interestingly enough, tracked vehicles work this way - the running circumference of the track is the same regardless of whether or not it is tensioned or fairly slack.

[Iron Horse]

I'm sorry if my example did not make it clear . I was artificially bagging out the bottom of the tire with reduced air pressure to resemble a heavily loaded tire which would look similar to make it easy for people to imagine what the flat spot on the bottom of the tyre will do to altering ratios by reducing the center of axle too ground measurement (radius).

Example 2/ .
If I put a rubber track 12 feet long on one side of my tractor and left the standard wheel and tire on the other side and drove both through the rear diff . The 12' long track having a huge circumference compared to the tire . The drive sprocket and the thickness of the track having the same diameter as the wheel on the other side(the measurement from the center of the axles too the ground) , both will cover the same amount of ground at the same speed . It's the rolling radius which matters .

[Smalljobs]

I've read all of this carefully and am wondering how much ballast wgt I should add to the rear of my own 284 with Koyker 160 loader?