lakespirit
Silver Member
I have the harness(s) for that tractor in stock, but I would'nt suggest changing it unless your wires have been damaged.
I'm afraid to ask, but can you P.M. the price.
I have the harness(s) for that tractor in stock, but I would'nt suggest changing it unless your wires have been damaged.
You may have reconnected something in a way that continued to discharge the battery after the keyswitch was shut off - or - the charging voltage from your alternator isn't getting all the way back to the battery.I can only muster a high speed clicking in the solenoid and she won't engage the starter. The battery has a steady 13.3 volts in it
You may have reconnected something in a way that continued to discharge the battery after the keyswitch was shut off - or - the charging voltage from your alternator isn't getting all the way back to the battery.
I say this, because detecting voltage at the battery posts isn't the same thing has having sufficient stored amperage to turn the flywheel. Remove the battery connections completely, and try to start it with a second battery of sufficient size. Make sure to use the compression release, cuz many batteries in gasoline vehicles don't have enough crankin' amps to turn over a cold diesel.
Once (if) you get it running, have the tractor battery recharged and load tested. If the charge is low, it's time to check for that short that drained it. Later - if you want - we can also discuss how to bypass the tractor wiring to get charging voltage more directly to your battery.
//greg//
That's progress. There's still a problem to deal with relative to the glow plugs and lights/horn. Maybe the charging too, but it's too early to tell just yet. Still a good idea to get the tractor battery load tested though.Tried the battery directly to the starter and had same result from key and jumping with screwdriver,with the only fuse being the 30A main.
That's progress. There's still a problem to deal with relative to the glow plugs and lights/horn. Maybe the charging too, but it's too early to tell just yet. Still a good idea to get the tractor battery load tested though.
The fact what you're considering a known good battery of sufficient size results in the same clicking noise - even using the screwdriver method - suggests a bad solenoid. I'd like you to try the screwdriver methode one more time though, if possible. But this time make sure the tractor wiring is disconnected from the solenoid. You're trying to start with nothing more than the truck battery, the jumper cables, and the screwdriver
//greg//