need to rewire the KAMA TS254C

[lakespirit]

Ed,
Thanks for that one. Not too long ago I replaced the starter and solenoid, and since then have taken them apart to do as you suggest. Do it again???
Jeff

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would. Looks like all roads lead to the solenoid.

Chris

 

[Red55]

Jeff you have isolated it to the starter/solenoid. Sorry to hear that it's only a year old, but havn't found Rob's post yet. Did find that I'm banned from CTOCF unless the site is down? Rob had a detailed procedure with pictures on cleaning and reassembling the solenoid. Do remember the crap that was inside the solenoid and was amazed that it moved/worked at all -Ed

 

[lakespirit]

Swell! I have another starter and solenoid sitting on the shelf (old ones). Maybe I'll trade out the solenoid and see what happens.

I would. Looks like all roads lead to the solenoid.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

OK, tried with only the battery hooked up jumping from battery terminal on solenoid to the little-bitty screw on the solenoid with screwdriver...click, click, click....

Thanks. Isolating the starter and solenoid from the tractor wiring helps prove this particular problem is coincidental - but unrelated - to your wiring work. My own recommendation would be to just replace the solenoid. Yours probably has the same QD100C3 starter as mine, it takes this solenoid: solinoid-QD100C3 . You can take it off and play with it if you want, but I seem to recall you already did that a few months back. If I'm thinkin' of the wrong guy, the starter first has to come off the tractor, then the solenoid comes off the starter. You can try the solenoid that's on your shelf - but can you say with any confidence that it's actually a known good part?

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

I had the starter and solenoid out, and when putting power to it on the shop floor, I was able to get the solenoid to push the starter gear out and the starter spun??? Any thoughts on that before I spend more money?

QUOTE=greg_g;1788779]Thanks. Isolating the starter and solenoid from the tractor wiring helps prove this particular problem is coincidental - but unrelated - to your wiring work. My own recommendation would be to just replace the solenoid. Yours probably has the same QD100C3 starter as mine, it takes this solenoid: solinoid-QD100C3 . You can take it off and play with it if you want, but I seem to recall you already did that a few months back. If I'm thinkin' of the wrong guy, the starter first has to come off the tractor, then the solenoid comes off the starter. You can try the solenoid that's on your shelf - but can you say with any confidence that it's actually a known good part?

//greg//[/QUOTE]

 

[GuglioLS]

Jeff,

One thing I strongly suggest and cant stress enough is to:

1. Remove the ground wire from the tractor frame (the (-) wire from the battery) grind down the frame to bare metal where the terminal was attached to the frame. Then sand paper both sides of the ground lug, then re-attach to the frame using a star or lock washer on both sides of the terminal.

It has been suggested to isolate (disconnect) the glow plugs, I strongly concur at least until you get the starter solenoid working properly. I suspect a shorted glow plug. Connect one glow plug at a time then "bump" the switch to activate the glow plugs looking at your dash amp meter to find the glow plug that draws the most current until you find the one that's shorted out. Remove the buss bar that connects all the glow plugs together so you can test them one at a time. You may even find a piece of metal or bracket or something touching / shorting out the glow plug buss bar. Take a good look at it in bright light to see if there is anything amiss.


Good luck - electrical issues can be a a real pain, the best advice is to not get frustrated, be thorough and methodical, and try not discount or brush off any possibility.

Larry

 

[lakespirit]

Is there any risk to run with only two of the three glow plugs? Reason I ask is because I know one needs replacing. If disconnecting all the fuses except the 30A main fuse, disconnecting all the wires to the starter/solenoid, and running directly from my truck battery to the tractor using the key, and screwdriver jumping method still produced the clicking, is it possible I destroyed the solenoid with my "marvelous" rewiring job?

 

[greg_g]

I had the starter and solenoid out, and when putting power to it on the shop floor, I was able to get the solenoid to push the starter gear out and the starter spun??? Any thoughts on that before I spend more money?

Understand. But our troubleshooting is hindered by not being able to look over your shoulder. First thing that comes to mind is that you were trying to jump the tractor outside in the cold, but bench tested it indoors. The warmer the starter/solenoid > the thinner the internal lubrication > the fewer cranking amps are required to engage. That same starter was on those Jinmas I used to own, and I'd stick a magnetic heater on the starter housing to keep it warm during the winter. That said, the suggestion to disassemble/clean/lubricate the starter and solenoid has merit. But if all of this was done at the same temperature, that idea goes out the window.

The QD100C3s on both my Jinmas did the same thing when it started cooling off in the fall. The short term fix was to stick a magnetic heater on the starter housing overnight. Cleaning/lubing didn't help. Then I discovered how low the voltage was between the keyswitch and the solenoid. You seemingly eliminated that cause by isolating the tractor wiring with the truck battery/screwdriver test. That said, I already mentioned about the extra cranking amps needed to turn over a diesel. I suppose there's a chance the truck battery isn't actually storing the whole 1000CA anymore. These are the kind of variables we can't detect by remote control.

Anyway, I don't think you're going to get away from this without spending a little money. I too had a 2nd QD100C3, the 1st one having been replaced by the original owner. But I got it with the sale, then had it cleaned and rebuilt by an auto-electric shop for $65. I considered that money well spent. You might want to consider a rebuild for both your starter/solenoid units. At least that way you'll know in the future that you have a "known good" spare.

As a side note, warming and cleaning all those different QD100C3s is not what ended up fixing the "click-click" problem for good. There was still excess voltage loss between the keyswitch and the solenoid. I fixed that with a starter relay. At the same time, I added a glow plug relay (and the charging bypass wire mentioned earlier).

Can't offer much more right now, till you tell us which way you're going with this. Don't forget to load test the tractor battery. Might same some aggravation down the road, to do the same with the truck battery while you're at it.

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

Understand. But our troubleshooting is hindered by not being able to look over your shoulder. First thing that comes to mind is that you were trying to jump the tractor outside in the cold, but bench tested it indoors. The warmer the starter/solenoid > the thinner the internal lubrication > the fewer cranking amps are required to engage. That same starter was on those Jinmas I used to own, and I'd stick a magnetic heater on the starter housing to keep it warm during the winter. That said, the suggestion to disassemble/clean/lubricate the starter and solenoid has merit. But if all of this was done at the same temperature, that idea goes out the window.

The QD100C3s on both my Jinmas did the same thing when it started cooling off in the fall. The short term fix was to stick a magnetic heater on the starter housing overnight. Cleaning/lubing didn't help. Then I discovered how low the voltage was between the keyswitch and the solenoid. You seemingly eliminated that cause by isolating the tractor wiring with the truck battery/screwdriver test. That said, I already mentioned about the extra cranking amps needed to turn over a diesel. I suppose there's a chance the truck battery isn't actually storing the whole 1000CA anymore. These are the kind of variables we can't detect by remote control.

Anyway, I don't think you're going to get away from this without spending a little money. I too had a 2nd QD100C3, the 1st one having been replaced by the original owner. But I got it with the sale, then had it cleaned and rebuilt by an auto-electric shop for $65. I considered that money well spent. You might want to consider a rebuild for both your starter/solenoid units. At least that way you'll know in the future that you have a "known good" spare.

As a side note, warming and cleaning all those different QD100C3s is not what ended up fixing the "click-click" problem for good. There was still excess voltage loss between the keyswitch and the solenoid. I fixed that with a starter relay. At the same time, I added a glow plug relay (and the charging bypass wire mentioned earlier).

Can't offer much more right now, till you tell us which way you're going with this. Don't forget to load test the tractor battery. Might same some aggravation down the road, to do the same with the truck battery while you're at it.

//greg//

Would it be possible, at least for now, to give me the recipe for a simple wiring plan to bypass anything not absolutely necessary to: 1. start the tractor, 2. provide charging to the battery.