1) Blowing Glow Fuses, 2) Voltage Regulator Connections

[Smalljobs]

I'm having two erratic problems. Tractor now has 128 hrs since new in May.

Glow Plug Fuse - Twice I've had the problem in the morning when the glow plug fuse blows. I put in a new one and all is OK until the next time. Tractor is stored outside but always covered with a tarp. I plan to install a NAPA ECH SW29 kill switch to disconnect battery.

Voltage Regulator gives me trouble and I have to occasionally remove and reinstall. Today I had to reinstall it at least 6 times to get it to work. All the connecters seemed shiny with no corrosion. I'm thinking about bending the tabs slightly to have more pressure inside when seated.

Winter is around the corner and I'd like to resolve these small issues.

[greg_g]

Glow plugs; are they connected to each other with primary wire? or with a copper buss bar?

Voltage regulator; I doubt the problem is a connector, an internal electronic relay is probably sticking. By removing/replacing, you're just resetting the relay. I'd just replace it (Regulator JFT141-14V - JFT141-14V)

//greg//

[Red55]

Originally Posted by Smalljobs

I'm having two erratic problems. Tractor now has 128 hrs since new in May.

Glow Plug Fuse - Twice I've had the problem in the morning when the glow plug fuse blows. I put in a new one and all is OK until the next time. Tractor is stored outside but always covered with a tarp. I plan to install a NAPA ECH SW29 kill switch to disconnect battery.

Voltage Regulator gives me trouble and I have to occasionally remove and reinstall. Today I had to reinstall it at least 6 times to get it to work. All the connecters seemed shiny with no corrosion. I'm thinking about bending the tabs slightly to have more pressure inside when seated.

Winter is around the corner and I'd like to resolve these small issues.

First I would clean and double check all contections to the alternator. (Mine was acting wacky and I had a Pin that was loose when the regulator was connected - the terminal would be in the proper position when you removed the regulator found by gently tugging on the terminals from behind the fuse block)

Second I would clean the neg connection to frame and install a star washer. (Thanks Larry G!) I copied Ronald's method (Ranchhand) and installed the neg under the radatior frame.

Finally I would order the right voltage regulator It may be this one;
https://affordabletractorsalesco.com...ategory=&scid=

For the glow plugs I would install a relay for switching the glow plugs on This way your key is only turning on the 30amps and not loading down the switch (they're not know for their robustness)

Good luck electrical issues can be a royal pain in the *ss -Ed

[greg_g]

When I first read your opening post, the "128 hours" part registered, but the "new in May" part didn't until just now. What does Bolton say about warranty coverage for these issues?

//greg//

[Smalljobs]

The bus bar is a copper strip and when I retorqued the head at 65 hrs I cleaned and burnished all the bus bar connections.

More info - maybe it's related: This tractor is dealer wired so that when the key is turned all the way CW and clutch switch depressed, the plugs are energized during cranking.

Bolton has always provided good service and the first fuse failure solution a few months ago was to just replace it. Same for the regulator - just reinsert it. I'll be talking to Bolton today.

Somehow, I wonder if the "glow during cranking" has something to do with this.

Will go ahead and check alternator connections and improve the ground. I know the ground connection at the battery post needs some help because the clamp is fully closed but it won't tightly grip the post.

[greg_g]

Originally Posted by Smalljobs

Somehow, I wonder if the "glow during cranking" has something to do with this..

I doubt that the rewiring is at fault, it's a common cold start upgrade. The starter solenoid should be fused on a different circuit than are the glow plugs. The problem is more likely one or more bad plugs pulling more amperage than the pre-heat fuse is rated for (30A I think).

Do you have access to a multi-meter? If yes, there's a simple test that might help you find the culprit. Alternatively, you could take the shotgun approach and just replace all three.

//greg//

[Turbo]

the plugs are energized during cranking. ?

first off I don't think there is enough time for the glow plugs to heat up by the rushing air and fuel going by them.

second. the starter amperage is high in the first place adding three to four more heater to the circuit will add more loaded amperage to the wiring, separate the circuits or in crease wire size. but what ever you do don't just increase the fuse size or your wire will be the one failing.

good luck

[Diamondpilot]

No help on the Voltage Regulator but on the glow plugs check each with a multi meter for resistance at room temp. If on is different you have a bad one. Also check the copper bar carefully. Some have had a loose nut or something contacting it making it go to ground.

Chris

[greg_g]

Originally Posted by Turbo

the plugs are energized during cranking. ?

first off I don't think there is enough time for the glow plugs to heat up by the rushing air and fuel going by them.

second. the starter amperage is high in the first place adding three to four more heater to the circuit will add more loaded amperage to the wiring, separate the circuits or in crease wire size. but what ever you do don't just increase the fuse size or your wire will be the one failing.

good luck

Your tractor apparently has stock wiring, where the glow plugs are energized when the keyswitch is in the HEAT position only. As soon as you move the key to START, the glow plugs are de-energized. SmallJob's tractor has been modified so that the glow plugs are energized in both HEAT and START positions. That prevents the pre-chamber from cooling off during cranking cycle.

if we were talking about an older Jinma, both the glow plugs AND the starter solenoid came under the umbrella of the 30 amp system fuse. But for the last several years, the glow plugs were put on a separately fused circuit. The starter motor itself was never fused, only the starter solenoid. And the solenoid current draw is comparatively low. But now, the glow plugs are on a separately fused (30A) circuit. The idea is that - if something goes wrong with the glow plug circuit - the glow plug fuse should blow first, thereby NOT blowing the system fuse like in days of old.

//greg//

[Turbo]

Originally Posted by greg_g

Your tractor apparently has stock wiring, where the glow plugs are energized when the keyswitch is in the HEAT position only. As soon as you move the key to START, the glow plugs are de-energized. SmallJob's tractor has been modified so that the glow plugs are energized in both HEAT and START positions. That prevents the pre-chamber from cooling off during cranking cycle.

if we were talking about an older Jinma, both the glow plugs AND the starter solenoid came under the umbrella of the 30 amp system fuse. But for the last several years, the glow plugs were put on a separately fused circuit. The starter motor itself was never fused, only the starter solenoid. And the solenoid current draw is comparatively low. But now, the glow plugs are on a separately fused (30A) circuit. The idea is that - if something goes wrong with the glow plug circuit - the glow plug fuse should blow first, thereby NOT blowing the system fuse like in days of old.

//greg//

well that clears that up,,good info... thanks
(I see say's the blind man looking at his dumb tractor)..

so how are they doing the mod between the heat and start? putting a diode in the jumper wire to keep the starter from engaging when your in the heat position?
I haven't had to start mine in winter as yet, I might conceder putting that mod in.
also what make the glow plug short to ground when it burn out instead of going to an open? any idea?