KAMA TS254C won't start & battery's "boiling"???

[Turbo]

The regulator has every thing to do with the charging voltage. it controls the current to the rotor , that produces the 14 volts thu the stator, but thats another story.

a fuse is always in series from the power source to the circuit not parallel.

you can have parallel circuits to one fuse going to the power , but parallel to the power from the circuit that bypasses the fuse will not work..

[lakespirit]

You guys lost me in all this several posts ago. I did go out and clean up the battery once again, fired up the tractor and did the volt readings again on the battery. Before starting the reading is 12.65 volts. At start it's 13.5-ish. After warmed up and revving around 1800RPM (an educated guess from the sound since tach not working) is 13.95 to 14 volts.

There is no more "boiling" going on, so I'm thinking as long as I don't screw around with any more wiring, I should make it through the winter.

If anyone knows where I can get parts for this beast, let me know. I need ball joints. I did send an email to one known KAMA parts guy a week ago, but haven't heard anything back.

[Egon]

Have you checked the battery for water levels?

[greg_g]

Originally Posted by lakespirit

. I need ball joints.

Your voltage readings have now moved into what I'd call the "normal" range. So I'd say you were simply experiencing the effects of a low battery state. Based upon your description, the battery seems to take a charge rather slowly - and may have one or more blocked vents.

What makes you think you need new pull-rod joints? Are they making noise? Front wheels wobbling? I ask, cuz they're loose by design -> should be kept full of grease -> and might be slightly adjustable. That said, the grease donuts are junk. Typical Chinese rubber. Mine were torn up within the first year of ownership. Replacements have been difficult to find, so I just grease the pull joints more frequently (~monthly).

Have you ever verified (or aligned) the steering and toe-in? The double-ended steering cylinder requires a slightly different procedure than on those with a single-ended cylinder.

//greg//

[lakespirit]

Originally Posted by greg_g

Your voltage readings have now moved into what I'd call the "normal" range. So I'd say you were simply experiencing the effects of a low battery state. Based upon your description, the battery seems to take a charge rather slowly - and may have one or more blocked vents.

What makes you think you need new pull-rod joints? Are they making noise? Front wheels wobbling? I ask, cuz they're loose by design -> should be kept full of grease -> and might be slightly adjustable. That said, the grease donuts are junk. Typical Chinese rubber. Mine were torn up within the first year of ownership. Replacements have been difficult to find, so I just grease the pull joints more frequently (~monthly).

Have you ever verified (or aligned) the steering and toe-in? The double-ended steering cylinder requires a slightly different procedure than on those with a single-ended cylinder.

//greg//

How sloppy should they be? I have adjusted the toe-in, but it's been a loooonnnnnggggg time. I'll do that because I should.

Thanks.

[lakespirit]

Originally Posted by Egon

Have you checked the battery for water levels?

Levels are good. All cleaned up, and no more boiling.

I appreciate the help.

[lakespirit]

Originally Posted by Turbo

The regulator has every thing to do with the charging voltage. it controls the current to the rotor , that produces the 14 volts thu the stator, but thats another story.

a fuse is always in series from the power source to the circuit not parallel.

you can have parallel circuits to one fuse going to the power , but parallel to the power from the circuit that bypasses the fuse will not work..

Mr. Turbo,
I checked on numerous items you suggested. If memory serves, the difference i voltage at the battery versus the alternator was about one volt. Make sense?

Thanks for the help.

[lakespirit]

Originally Posted by Bob Rooks

It could be possible that your battery is exhibiting thermal runaway. This is a very dangerous condition that can occur if batteries are charged too fast. One of the byproducts of gassing are oxygen and hydrogen. As the battery heats up, the gassing rate increases as well and it becomes increasingly likely that the hydrogen around it will explode. Check your battery voltage with a multi-meter the next time you have the engine running, it should not exceed 16 volts immediately after startup and gradually taper down to ~13.6 volts.

Hey Bob,
I am in normal ranges now with the battery and charging levels...13.9 at about 1800RPM and when not running about 13.5 or 13.6.

I appreciate your advise.

Jeff

[greg_g]

Originally Posted by lakespirit

How sloppy should they be?

Well, sloppy is kinda in the eye of the beholder. I too thought there was excess movement in mine. But I took everything apart, and could find no signs of undue wear. They're apparently just built to a very loose tolerance, and the leaky grease donuts don't help matters either. So unless you have noise and/or visible wheel wobble when turning, just keeping them well greased and aligned should be sufficient.

Are the crown nuts tight? There's a horizontal ball coupler on either side of the cylinder too. Are they tight?

//greg//

[lakespirit]

Are the crown nuts tight? There's a horizontal ball coupler on either side of the cylinder too. Are they tight?

//greg//[/quote]

Is the crown nut the one on top of the ball joint? Standing in front of the tractor, the insides of that ball joint are gone, and so's the bottom cap that holds everything in.

The grease nipples on the outside of the front wheel hubs lubricate????