Jinma 284 won't start

[meporsche]

Hello,
I searched the archives but couldn't find an answer to my problem. I have only had my tractor 5 weeks, it has 20 hours on it. Yesterday when I tried to start it, the starter would only click, but loudly. I put a meter on the battery, saw it was a little low (didn't realize the Alt doesn't charge with key in straight up pos.) so I jumped it. Still clicked but suddenly engaged and started. I had to engage the starter a few times but no problems.

Today, same problem, I cannot get the starter to engage. There's a pin that is moving on the gear housing when it clicks so I *think* the solenoid is providing juice to the starter.

I am waiting right now to see if clamping a magnetic block heater on the starter will help. Our temps here have been more or less a steady 20 deg +/_ for the last two days. I know there have been posts regarding starters sticking because of cold grease but I'm thinking 975 CCA should be able to power through that. Any help appreciated.

Darwin

 

[greg_g]

Cold dirty grease is only part of it. Most likely you don't have enough voltage between the keyswitch and the starter solenoid. The solenoid needs a good 10v to kick the pinion all the way into the ring gear. Less than 9v, and it starts bouncing off the ring gear. Lower than 7 or 8v, and it just clicks. I remedied that problem on my tractors with a big Ford type relay right down at the starter. Use the keyswitch voltage to trip the relay, then the relay gives a full voltage kick to the solenoid.

//greg//

 

[meporsche]

After leaving the magnetic block heater on the starter for about 15-20 minutes it turned right over. I'm still puzzled as it would certainly deliver the same voltage TO the solenoid, warm starter or cold.

I will test the voltage at the solenoid tomorrow when everything is cold again. DO you have a part #/Mfgr for the relay?

Thank s,
DArwin

 

[biggerten]

And of course clean and tighten the following connections -

1) Both battery posts
2) Negative cable to tractor (has been known to be troublesome).
3) Positive cable to solenoid.

Also, put a charger on that battery - you've already abused it. A battery minder is a good idea.

 

[meporsche]

I did fully charge the battery overnight before I tried to start it today. The battery is new (Chinese batt had an internal short) so all the connections are spiffy, at the battery at least. I need to check out the ground to the chassis though.
I wish now I had tried to jump the contacts at the solenoid with a screwdriver, may have helped to isolate the problem.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I had the same issues you are having. Take the starter off and either tear it down yourself, clean, lube, and reinstall or take it to a shop and have it done. Should cost about $25.

I also ran my ground wire directly to the base of the starter by buying a new longer wire. It seemed to make a difference for me.

Chris

 

[meporsche]

I can't really take the starter off to take it to a shop. I'm *pretty sure* I could do it myself but I hate to open it up and get stuck. This time of year I have to use the tractor on a daily basis to feed round bales and/or plow snow. If I dismantle it and have to wait to get it back together I'm in a bind.

 

[biggerten]

I can't really take the starter off to take it to a shop. I'm *pretty sure* I could do it myself but I hate to open it up and get stuck. This time of year I have to use the tractor on a daily basis to feed round bales and/or plow snow. If I dismantle it and have to wait to get it back together I'm in a bind.

Try reading the following thread, especially starting at reply #27 -

Jinma 254 Starter rebuild

 

[mffarmall]

I had problems with my system last some. It's hard to say what could be wrong. But if your getting a click then your probably needing to check all your post. The aluminum wires can come lose after time. They are good to change out when you can to a bigger size and copper. Your negative ground might need to have the paint stripped off also. I have a support for the radiator on top of the frame and both were painted. So I scratched both up and got a good connect. Your starter might be a bad one. You should have it under warrenty. I took mine into town and had it checked at 4 places. I had 3 positive checks and one negative. So I figured that it was okay. And as for my battery I am still using my original one from 07. They are strong and bad all at the same time. But the best advice is to look at the battery system first. And listen to these guys. Usually they are right on the money.

 

[greg_g]

After leaving the magnetic block heater on the starter for about 15-20 minutes it turned right over. I'm still puzzled as it would certainly deliver the same voltage TO the solenoid, warm starter or cold.

I will test the voltage at the solenoid tomorrow when everything is cold again. DO you have a part #/Mfgr for the relay?

The magnetic heater was an interim fix for my two JM254s also. I was fighting low voltage + cold grease. Thinning the grease eliminated the physical resistance, giving the low voltage a better chance of throwing the pinion gear hard enough.

Once I added the relay, the magnetic heater was never needed again. The original Ford part number was B6AZ-11450-A. But you should be able to buy aftermarket clones at any auto parts or farm store. You can probably get the relay, wire, and fittings needed for a $20 bill

//greg//