KATS #14600 Heater Problem

Smalljobs · Dec 17, 2009

Winter is here and I installed a new KATS 14600 yesterday in the Jinma 284 lower radiator hose. I then ran the tractor until I felt the upper radiator hose warm up - maybe 20 minutes. Then I topped off the coolant.

This morning it was around 11 degrees F and breezy and the tractor is stored outside. First I tried to start the tractor by glowing plugs, activating compression release, spinning it over, restore compression...and it fired, stumbled, etc. So far so good. I tried again and it cranked really slowly but I knew I could start it if I wanted to.

I plugged in the new KATZ and put my fingers on the housing. I felt some activity or buzzing etc and went back in for coffee. After an hour I went out and everything was cold, including the KATS housing. I waited another hour and no improvement. I left it on and went to the local TSC and picked up another one. After a total of over 3 hrs there was no warmth on the KATZ, hose, etc. The tractor was still ice cold and would barely turn over. I used the compression release and got it running right away with no problem at around 12-14F.

So...now I have a new KATS. Am I missing something here? Maybe I have a defective unit which I brought brand new in the summer or maybe I still had air in the system? Before I swap it out, maybe someone has some suggestions.

If these are unreliable, is there a better option that will fit on the Y385 engine?

Just measured resistance at plug: New one is 24 ohms. Installed one is open circuit.

Smalljobs · Dec 17, 2009

Replaced the new heater with the new new one. Yes..that's new new. Refilled coolant and ran half hour. I put some cardboard in front of the radiator to bring temp up to close to 180F (I have my own mechanical temp gage and Stant 180F thermostat.) and ran it some more. I then checked the radiator again and it's full. KATS heater resistance is still same at 24 ohms as when I took it out of the box. I also drove the tractor around for awhile so I'm sure the coolant system is full.

Tomorrow AM will be even colder and I'll try it again.

studor · Dec 17, 2009

You should be able to hear a sizzle sound after it is plugged in for a few minutes and the heater body should be hot. I cannot see how it would not have water in it -- squeeze the rad hose on either side of the heater with the rad cap off and there should be a little surge in the top of the rad. Sounds like the heater is SNAFU -- they are usually very reliable. There is usually a temp sensor in them so they do not burn up - maybe that is not working properly -- hope it works out with the new one

RonMar · Dec 17, 2009

24 Ohms is the correct resistance for a 600 Watt heating element. When in operation it should sound a little like a tea kettle getting ready to boil, with a slight hissing sound.

The heating element is very reliable. They probably use a thermal snap switch to cycle it on and off to maintain the temp. The snap switch opening and closing the circuit on a high current heating element is the weak link, but it should have lasted longer than it's first test

. I have replaced a few tank type units we use on our generators at work. The heating unit itself is fine, but the snap switch either sticks closed or burns up. That is where I got the unit I just put on my tractor. I would think it very unlikley that you wouldn't have fluid in the lower rad hose with the radiator full. Sounds like your first heater was a lemon.

Smalljobs · Dec 17, 2009

Tks. I'd already taken it apart. The button switch has continuity but the electrode is an open circuit. It's 9F here now. Tomorrow AM will be a good test. Stay tuned.

Dirtnut · Dec 17, 2009

Not sure what yours looks like but the one i have(tank circulator) has a check ball in it and needs to be hooked up in flow or it will not work.

Diamondpilot · Dec 17, 2009

Sounds like you just got a dud. I have also heard of these getting moisture in the end cap where the electrical wire goes in. This causes corrosion and shorting. We talked about this on the phone so I know this is not the issue with yours but like I mentioned I suggest to anyone installing one to put a dab of RTV or silicon on it to prevent water getting in and also take some care in mounting it so its less likely to get wet or be able to drain any that may creep in the electrical input end of the heater.

This is what the lower radiator heater looks like. It simply goes in the lower rad hose by cutting out a 1.5" section and using the supplied clamps to secure. They have many sizes but the 146000 is a 1.5" diameter unit and is what the Jinma 200 series tractors use.

Good luck Steve.

Chris

Smalljobs · Dec 17, 2009

Tks Chris. I'd add to what Chris said by recommending a "dry run" but not really dry and partially immerse it carefully in water. Now that I said that, I didn't bother to do that with my new-new one.

Diamondpilot · Dec 17, 2009

Steve

Also thinking about this if I remember right there is a way to mount it. I may be mistaken but I think they want it oriented a certain way according to the instructions. You may check the directions again.

Chris

Smalljobs · Dec 17, 2009

They want it with the "cap down at the 5-7 O'clock and element pointing toward block". Since we have a vertical hose, all we can do is to make sure the element points toward the block, i.e., toward the pump and away from radiator.

It's 6 degrees F here now and I started it about an hour ago. No problem. Just follow directions as written by other members: glow the plugs for around 30-45 seconds, spin over with no compression until oil pressure comes up, add compression back in, and presto...it starts. Maybe I won't need this heater at all but I want it for backup insurance.

In the morning I'll try starting w/o heater because it's a good thing to know anyway. Then, I'll test the heater.