erj
Gold Member
What were the results of the actions suggested by RonMar in post 5?
RonJ
RonJ
Help! 284 won't start, throttle problem
- Thread starter meporsche
- Start date
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,326
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
This type of poor prep of the tractor is what give Chinese tractors bad names. Your dealer did you no favors by selling you a tractor that was not properly prepped or giving you the proper information to service and maintain your investment.
I really hope you can get it going. I know you are frustrated but those old N series tractors can be a nightmare also and have no where near the power or utility your Jinma has. Worst case you will need a new pump and the members here can help you get it on and timed if you have patients.
What about your dealer? Is he any help or out of the picture?
Chris
Last edited:
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,007
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
Tommy is right when he says take the top off and look inside at what is happening. These disc/check valves can leak back very easily - all that is needed is avery small piece of rust, dust etc to hold the disc off it's seat. If that is the case, then any high pressure fuel instantly becomes low pressure fuel and that gives no injector operation.
As Tom mentioned - check the obvious first. Worst scenario is you may need a new fuel injection pump. If that is the case we can walk you through the pump installation - it just ain't rocket science, That is one of the beauties of these tractors - they really are fixable by the average owner.
Let us know how you make out - good luck.
Jim
Re: Post #5, no hangups on any linkage or cable. Manual pump pushes fuel through the low pressure lines, past fuel filter.
I couldn't take off the IP head to check the discs, it was raining hard here and the tractor is outside with no way to get it in.
Fortunately a neighbor has agreed to move hay for me so my animals will be OK. Tractors are like Jaguars, you need three so that when the normal two won't work you can drive the third and use the other two for parts.
I couldn't take off the IP head to check the discs, it was raining hard here and the tractor is outside with no way to get it in.
Fortunately a neighbor has agreed to move hay for me so my animals will be OK. Tractors are like Jaguars, you need three so that when the normal two won't work you can drive the third and use the other two for parts.
RonMar
Elite Member
I don't think the discs/check valves are the problem. I don't see all 3 being hung up at the same time, and if it is only one, the other 2 cylinders should still try to fire. If there is fuel in the IP body and no fuel comes out of loosened injector fittings when you crank the engine over, then I think your problem lies in the fuel control of the governor, as that is it's job to control the rack and ultimately fuel delivery.
The throttle(better term would be speed selector) pushes a spring that pushes the fuel rack open. the fuel rack controls the stroke/volume of the piston pumps which determins how much fuel is delivered. Inside the governor are 6 balls that are spun by a rotating cage assembly. As they spin centrifugal force pushes them outward against a cone. This cone moves a rod that pushes the fuel rack closed. The force applied by the balls to close the rack is proportional to engine RPM, and the force applied by the spring to open the rack is proportional to the throttle position. The balance between these two forces is how the governor maintains a particular RPM for a given throttle position. There are two setscrews at the rear of the governor with safety wire on them that limit the fuel rack travel. The fuel cut lever applies additional force to the rod in the same direction as the spinning balls and cone does to shutdown the engine. I think that is where your problem lies. I think the cone is stuck in the closed rack position(perhaps a ball or part of the cage has failed) or more likley IMO, the fuel cut mechanism is holding the rack in the shutoff position. Since this was the last thing you did, the last time it ran, I would probably look there first as it may have been damaged internally during the aborted start. Tractor Outlet used to have service bulletins online, one of which had a cool pic of a disassembled governor. Unfortunately, I can't find a link or their website anymore...
Just to make sure, the fuel cutoff/shutdown lever(one with the shutdown pullcable atached to it) needs to be all the way forward and touching the main injector pump body for the engine to run.
Knowing what I know, and since none of the injectors are delivering enough fuel to fire the engine, I would look in the rear governor housing first... I believe you can disassemble this housing without removing the injector pump from the tractor, but I have never personally done one of these...
The throttle(better term would be speed selector) pushes a spring that pushes the fuel rack open. the fuel rack controls the stroke/volume of the piston pumps which determins how much fuel is delivered. Inside the governor are 6 balls that are spun by a rotating cage assembly. As they spin centrifugal force pushes them outward against a cone. This cone moves a rod that pushes the fuel rack closed. The force applied by the balls to close the rack is proportional to engine RPM, and the force applied by the spring to open the rack is proportional to the throttle position. The balance between these two forces is how the governor maintains a particular RPM for a given throttle position. There are two setscrews at the rear of the governor with safety wire on them that limit the fuel rack travel. The fuel cut lever applies additional force to the rod in the same direction as the spinning balls and cone does to shutdown the engine. I think that is where your problem lies. I think the cone is stuck in the closed rack position(perhaps a ball or part of the cage has failed) or more likley IMO, the fuel cut mechanism is holding the rack in the shutoff position. Since this was the last thing you did, the last time it ran, I would probably look there first as it may have been damaged internally during the aborted start. Tractor Outlet used to have service bulletins online, one of which had a cool pic of a disassembled governor. Unfortunately, I can't find a link or their website anymore...
Just to make sure, the fuel cutoff/shutdown lever(one with the shutdown pullcable atached to it) needs to be all the way forward and touching the main injector pump body for the engine to run.
Knowing what I know, and since none of the injectors are delivering enough fuel to fire the engine, I would look in the rear governor housing first... I believe you can disassemble this housing without removing the injector pump from the tractor, but I have never personally done one of these...
There is a plate on the end of the housing where the throttle lever and fuel cutoff switch in contained. It is somewhat oblong and has two cap screws holding it on. Is this where I can can get to the governor?
If not, it looks like I will have to remove the plate that the oil filter mounts to as there is one screw/bolt under the housing that will not come off unless the plate is removed.
I can post a picture tomorrow of what I am talking about. But your observation makes sense, it does seem unlikely that all three discs would simultaneously stick.
PS I have tried to start it with the fuel cutoff lever in every conceivable position, with every possible combination of fuel control lever.
When I first spin the engine I get light colored smoke then black, sooty exhaust. There is SOME fuel getting in somehow.
If not, it looks like I will have to remove the plate that the oil filter mounts to as there is one screw/bolt under the housing that will not come off unless the plate is removed.
I can post a picture tomorrow of what I am talking about. But your observation makes sense, it does seem unlikely that all three discs would simultaneously stick.
PS I have tried to start it with the fuel cutoff lever in every conceivable position, with every possible combination of fuel control lever.
When I first spin the engine I get light colored smoke then black, sooty exhaust. There is SOME fuel getting in somehow.
Dealer is Josef Tractor in Dallas. Pump is under warranty but they have yet to return my call. I have to return the pump before they will send me another. Which may turn out to be the same pump in a different box with new paint or one that doesn't function either. RIght now I have a pump timed to the engine and if I can repair it I would rather than tyr to pull teeth with the "dealer" and put another pump on that won't work. I read in the archives about a peach farmer who spent weeks trying to make a new pump run which turned out to be defective.
biggerten
Gold Member
I think they're gone, I seem to recall some discussion about them last year.
It's probably not the same pump, but Ron has some pictures of a dis-assembled pump at Jinma Dealer, Wood Chipper , Compact Jinma Tractors
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
Look in this pic,you will see the 3-springs and seats,if 1-disc is off you will not get pressure to the other cylinders,I have new pumps if you end up needing one and you don't get any help from your dealer.
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
