Loader Used Purchase Advise

[Jinma284]

I just purchased a 2004 Farm Pro 2425 with a Koyker 160 loader. It would not start. Is already loaded on a trailer that I will pull it home on and leave it till it starts. They got the front loader up by attaching a come along to the loader and the ROPS. After pulling it up they put braces under it so it would not bounce up and down. I will not unload till the tractor is running. Could the lift seals have been damaged when they pulled it up? I would not have purchased it without it running but I got a good deal on it and the loader. I have a Jinma 284. There appears to be no oil leaks on the tractor. I'm just concerned about the lift. Any advice?

Pat

 

[Affordable]

It would not have hurt the loader,we have to do that sometimes when we pick up a tractor thats not running,let us know if we can help you with anything once you check it out

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Jinma284]

Now that its picked up can I let it back down before I start it up?

Pat

 

[greg_g]

Now that its picked up can I let it back down before I start it up?

Pat

Unless your hydraulic fluid sump is already low, that's not advisable. Lowering the FEL or TPH when the pump's not running often results in hydraulic fluid all over the backside of the tractor.

//greg//

 

[Jinma284]

We rebuilt the starter and alternator, put on new heavy duty battery cables and and a new battery. Bleed the fuel lines and cranked and cranked. Finally fired and ran rough, black smoke for about 2 minutes. Hydrolics worked great. Backed it off the trailor. Pulled it in the barn. The radiator has two holes in it and 75% of the fins are bent shut. I have ordered a new radiator, hoses, belt, thermostate, and will install those before I work with it.
The last three days I have cranked it 4 or 5 times per day. It fires right up and runs smooth without any smoke. I do have other issues to tackle once the radiator is installed.
First is the clutch. It will not totally disengage when depressing the petal fully. It will easily slip out of gear and into another gear but will not stop by pushing it in and will immediately go when put in another gear. Don't know if it was already this way from improper use or if it is rusted up or if I am the cause. The small plate on the bell housing opposite the starter was off when I got it. When we pulled the starter we noticed an awful lot of rust on the ring gear and on the starter drive. I took the starter to my son to rebuild and he said You need to clean that ring gear up before you replace the starter if you can. I went to the side with the missing small plate and using a screw driver to turn the ring gear, I sprayed PB Blaster on the ring gear to clean it. I now know, dumb idea, real dumb idea. I think the deal was the little weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing is plugged, the tractor sat outside for a long time without the plate on it, water collected inside the bell housing causing all the rust build up. I'm looking at these possibilites for the clutch problem:
1. Improper operator use before I got it.
2. Water in the bell housing rusted the clutch and its not releasing properly.
3. Dumb use of PB Blaster ruined the clutch.

We will install the radiator then take it out and run it to see if its rust that will wear off or if we have to split it.

Regardless the price was right and I would do the deal knowing what I do today.

Pat

 

[greg_g]

Two initial things to check; (a) stop bolt may need to be adjusted to permit additional clutch pedal travel, (b) external linkage may need adjustment. The stop bolt is typically threaded into the bell housing, secured in place with a jam nut.

A bit more difficult is the external linkage adjust. It's the rod that connects the clutch pedal with the clutch release arm. It's threaded, and the yoke can be screwed one way or the other to lengthen or shorten the rod.
1. look into the inspection window, find the throwout bearing and clutch release fingers.
2. with no foot on the pedal, there should be about an eighth inch gap between the tips of the release fingers and the front face of the bearing
3. all fingers should be exactly the same distance from the bearing face
4. when #3 is satisfied, adjust the length of the pull rod to achieve the 1/8" finger gap

Having said all that, the tractor shouldn't actually start moving till the pedal is in the 2nd half of upward travel. The 1st half of travel engages the PTO drive. The 2nd half engages the main drive. Rust may also have glued the PTO friction disc to the flywheel - or - the main drive disc may be glued to one or both of it's own pressure plates.

//greg//

 

[Jinma284]

Greg we will check it out this weekend after we put the new radiator, hoses and belts on. Can anyone tell me exactly where the weep hole is in the bottom of the bell housing. We can't find it.

Pat

 

[greg_g]

Mine were older than yours, so things may have changed in the years between. But I recall the weep hole as seemingly cast into the bell housing. Underneath obviously, centered at the very lowest point on the housing. Assuming you've actually got one, it may be plugged up with grease/oil/dust/dirt - and therefore "camouflaged". It's not very big, probably not much more than 1/8" or so.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Can anyone tell me exactly where the weep hole is in the bottom of the bell housing. We can't find it.

On my 304 the weep hole is dead center in the bottom of the bell housing, which puts it directly above the plate that ties the the two loader towers together under the bell housing. In short, it is impossible to see if it weren't for the fact that there is a bolt in it - I can just barely see the head of the bolt. I actually thought of drilling a hole in the tie plate so I could pull the drain bolt without removing the tie plate, but I forgot to do it when I had the plate off. Oops...

Rich

 

[Jinma284]

Tried to adjust the stop bolt but it is already in as far as possible at least it seemed that way to me. We got the new parts in and put them on over the weekend. I got through prunning the peach trees and used the front end loader to remove the limbs. As I have already posted the tractor will not stop when the clutch is depressed and takes off when put in gear before the clutch is released. It was a really slow go because of not being able to use all the gears. I can only use the creeper gear in low or high the other lever that goes up and down can only be used in low. I then can use 1st or 2nd gear in forward or reverse. 2nd gear is slow enough but reverse is really slow. I start on one end and work to the middle and then go to the other end and do the same. Backing up 170 feet in reverse is soooo slow. I worked all day Monday removing limbs, didn't realize how long I had worked and about 5 I ran it out of diesal. Andy, my son in law helped me restart it. Broke the lines, pumped the injector pump and it would run a few seconds and die. We were getting fuel to all lines. He worked about 45 minutes on it. Finally he removed a spin on filter that had been added between the fuel tank and the injector pump. The top of it was loaded with orangish yellowesh slim. I had another spin on fuel filter that fit. Broke the lines again, and she started up and ran great. Here is the surprise part.

At this point the clutch started working perfectly. Slip into gear and it doesn't start until you release the clutch, push the clutch in and it stops. Also able to put the second high-low selector into high and now had high reverse. If only I had had that all day. I would be done. The clutch and gears performed perfectly for about 5 minutes until I pulled it in the barn and depressed the clutch, no stop. Had to quickly jerk it out of gear to stop. Now I'm back to the same problem as before.

Anyone with any ideas?

Pat The Peach Man