Hydraulic Pump & FEL Issue - Jinma 284

[KurtK]

Hi all -
I recently changed my hydraulic oil on my 284, and bypassed the FEL via the quick-connects to help prime the pump. At this point my brush hog moved up & down easily on the rear hitch and power steering was fine too. After stopping the engine & re-connecting the FEL, the engine had trouble starting and would almost stall occassionally as the hydraulic lines to FEL would visibly jerk. The pump gets hot during this cycle, so it's getting starved of oil when I connect the FEL. (yes the pump did get damaged but it may salvageable).

Everything is fine with the FEL out of the circuit, but I didn't have this issue before the oil change. Let me know what you think is happening here. I'd guess I have an air block or need to prime the FEL in some way, but that's a guess.

thanks!

 

[mmurphy]

I am just guessing here from what I understand you are saying. You opened the lines from pump, between valves and return or tank line was no flow??? If that happens on a open center system pump just keeps building pressure untill something gives. If this is the case, you need lines hooked direct to a valve and return line so you have a circulation at all times while hydraulic components are not being used. Or another way of putting it, do not have QD's between pump going to valve, and return line.

 

[kennyd]

Welcome to TBN

Sounds like you have a bad QD (quick disconnect) that is blocking the flow of oil to the FEL-thus sending the pump into relief mode and wanting to stall the engine. The hydraulic flow must not be blocked or serious damage cn occur.

 

[Affordable]

I agree with kennyd ,I would day you have a bad quick connect coupler,the chinese ones are known for problems,Your local farm store should have a set of Pioneer quick couplings you will need 2-males,2-females. Or if you are going to need a replacement pump we also have the quick connects

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yes, the old QC issue. Been there a 1000 times on this site. I personally took mine out. There is no need for them on a Jinma 284 because the FEL is not a take on/take off style. I have had my tractor 7 years and had mine off once and found out what a pain in the arss is was to do so its not been off since.

I would put in Pioneer 1/2" swivel fittings. That is what I did and lost the QC's all toghether. You can get them at Rural King, TSC, or any other hydro shop. They do not need to be Pioneer but that is the most common brand.

Check your engine oil level and then your hydro oil level. Many times when what happens to folks that have done what you have done is the pump seal blows allowing hydro oil to be pumped into the crank case via the engine drive coupler area.

Chris

 

[KurtK]

Thanks guys. I kept the story short, but in fact the shaft seal on the hydraulic pump did blow and very quickly filled up the crankcase. Sump & hydro oil just poured out of the breather like crazy. I was surprised how much oil that pump could push into the crankcase.

I'll get some new quick connects, mine are the Chinese versions. Any suggestions on priming the FEL system before hooking this all back up?

thanks

Kurt

 

[mmurphy]

Yep. Do not put QD back on to loader valve.
Prime should take care of its self by actuating loader after you get pump fixed.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks guys. I kept the story short, but in fact the shaft seal on the hydraulic pump did blow and very quickly filled up the crankcase. Sump & hydro oil just poured out of the breather like crazy. I was surprised how much oil that pump could push into the crankcase.

I'll get some new quick connects, mine are the Chinese versions. Any suggestions on priming the FEL system before hooking this all back up?

thanks

Kurt

Sorry to hear about that...Give Tommy a call:thumbsup:

 

[Diamondpilot]

No trick to priming. Its a open center system and should not need priming. What I would do is hook up the new pump and on the output side take the hose off the FEL valve. Place the hose in a clean 5 gallon bucket. This will catch the fluid. Use a pair of vise grips to hold the fuel shut off out and then crank the engine. This will allow the starter to spin and in turn crank the engine and the pump. This should draw fluid in and prime it.

Consider using no QC's. They can be trouble on a Jinma 200 series and are not necessary. Get some 1/2" swivel fittings.

Chris

 

[SPIKER]

My brother pressure washed my pump as it was OILY and he ended up blowing the seal at the end plat and it really started leaking. I ordered a rebuild kit from TOMMY and a new pump. the rebuild kit didnt work so I put the new pump on. worked like a charm. the rebuilt pump (Original one) didnt leak but was too tight and seized up to the point starter couldn't get it fired.

like otehrs said self priming pump it will hold enough oil during a change the re-filling is not required.

mark