Noise in transmission

   / Noise in transmission
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Thanks for the pictures and info. Yes I know what you mean about hydrolics. The tank above the rear end is separate on mine so now I have to fill that as well. I have 3 drain plugs; one for the rear end which does just about everything, one for the 2/4 wheel shift and one for the shuttle shift. I pre-filled the first 2 compartments then closed them and filled the normal way through the dipstick. I now have waited overnight and will check this morning again to see if I have to add more which I'm sure I will. I hope with brand new oil and putting things back together carefully and tight that the occasional "clunk" disappears.
 
   / Noise in transmission
  • Thread Starter
#32  
****! Ran the machine beautifully for an hour till clunk clunk!! Sound good but 3 small clunks and that was it this time. Picture a small hammer going tap tap on the side of the chassis. Back to the drawing board?!
 
   / Noise in transmission #33  
While it is fresh in your mind - describe exactly what you were doing just before and during the clunks - speed of tractor, slope of ground, gear you were in, etc.
RonJ
 
   / Noise in transmission
  • Thread Starter
#34  
This post has been here for awhile, just read back and you will see. I've had the problem so intermittent for about a year or so it's very hard to pinpoint. It doesn't matter what gear, pto, 2/4 wheel drive. It doesn't do it in reverse but I don't drive backwards long enough to hear either. It happens when it's hot. Nothing looks broken. So the common pieces would be frame, engine, clutch, and drivetrain. Inside the drivetrain looks clean and in good working order. Possibly going to have to get off the tractor while in gear and walk beside to find out where this tapping noise is coming from exactly. Also no loader on at the moment too.
 
   / Noise in transmission #35  
Not enough Fotons on this forum for your particular problem to have been mentioned before. But there is a pesky noise that some Jinma 200 series owners have reported when their tractors still had relatively few hours on them. It seems there's a bearing or sleeve or something up high enough in thetranny where it doesn't get a good splash bath. The solution was to temporarily overfill the tranny until that problem area gets a good oiling, then drain off the excess. I don't recall any Jinma owners come back with a repeat complaint after having bathed that noisy spot just once.

//greg//
 
   / Noise in transmission
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Thanks Greg, I was thinking of doing that possibly because of not enough lubrication but how overflow should I go and how long should I run it like this? When I put the lids back on, I pre-filled the chambers first making sure I splashed oil on everything. The manual says oil capacity is 11 litres but I added about 14 liters to the full mark. One other thing to note, I ran transmission/hydrolic fluid in previous for about 3 hours and the noise was reduced quite a bit but this fluid is far thinner than 80w90 oil.

Cory
 
   / Noise in transmission #37  
Yeah, that's more evidence that there's something in there that needs a good dose of lube oil. If it were my tractor, I'd remove the covers and pour in until it appeared that all rotating parts were at least partially - if not completely - submerged. There's gonna be a lot of splashing, so you want to at least set the covers back over the openings before you start the engine. In your case, you probably want to bolt them back down, then run the tractor through the usual scenario where you hear the racket. If it goes away. drain back to the fill marks - job's done. If it persists, drain back to the fill marks - and we'll take another look at the situation

//greg//
 
   / Noise in transmission
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Interesting, you know I remember when I opened the lids up, the oil level was not touching the upper gears where the shuttle shift is (chamber under the key switch). Just the lower gears were submerged in oil. I also think one of the holes passage holes from the previous chamber was plugged with silicon from the gasket material; possibly factory defect. I added about another 2 liters to the oil now and I will let it sit for a while to settle in to the next chamber. The oil level is still not that far over full but I added about 18 litres now. Here is another question; when you check the dipstick, do you screw it in, than unscrew to check the level or do you just dip it in to check it? That would be a difference of about 3 litres right there. Maybe the oil was under filled the whole time. I'm going to run the tractor again here and see..

Cory
 
   / Noise in transmission #39  
The following isn't limited to Chinese tractors. Checking dipstick levels on most Asian equipment:
1. threaded:
a. unscrew and wipe stick
b set back on hole
c. remove and observe fluid level
d. add fluid as required
e. screw stick back in
2. unthreaded
a. pull out and wipe stick
b. push back in hole
c. remove and observe fluid level
d. add fluid as required
e. push stick back in

//greg//
 
   / Noise in transmission
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Good to know, thanks Greg; I have the threaded dipstick and I was filling as if unthreaded. That changes oil capacity quite a bit considering the thread is about 3/4 of an inch or so. I was running the unit with the oil on the add level or below always.

Cory
 
 
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