Noise in transmission

[succor]

Hey there everyone, now that I found this forum I can get alot of useful info in here where I couldn't anywhere else. Anyway, when I run my foton for quite a while, say 2 -3 hours I get an occasion clunk or knock somewhere below me (can't pinpoint exactly where but it's the odd knock) only when I'm driving. So I'm guessing when it gets hot and driving maybe related to gear oil or something loose somewhere in the transmission. It drives fine, no slipping or anything and clutch seems good and I use 80w90 gear oil. Summer time here in Saskatchewan is on the cooler end around 22C. Is this oil too thin even though it's too specs or could there be something loose?? Any thoughts are always appreciated.

Thanks

 

[greg_g]

Naw, 80W90 should be fine for 22C. I've found it to be a bit thin for July/Aug down here. Heat index today was 41C. So I thicken mine up with about 25% 85W140. Any more than that and it is too thick when starting up in the winter. But I think you're just fine with 80W90.

But before you start the tractor next time, check all your gear oil levels. I don't know how many you have on a Foton, but look for at least two; one for the tranny/rear diff, one for the mid-connect box (creeper or shuttle). If the mid-connect doesn't have a dipstick, remove the cover plate for a visual inspection. In addition to checking for correct levels, look for signs of water contamination. It often shows up as a pale yellow emulsion on the dipstick.

//greg//

 

[succor]

Great, I will check this and let you know what I found out. As for these new alternators, are they still readily available. Up here we have partsource, canadiantire and of course gm dealers. I've seen a picture of the alternator, does it fit in place of these factory alternators or is there modifications?

Thanks

 

[Rich Waugh]

I can't comment on your particular tractor, the Foton which you say has a Mitsubishi engine, but *some* of the Delco 10Si and 12Si alternators are pretty much a straight bolt-on for the engines in most Jinma tractors. YOu have to get the right alternator, though - there are differences in the location of the terminals, for one thing.

The chief advantage of the Delco 12Si for me is that it will bolt righ to my Jinma 304's TY395Y engine and it makes the crappy Jinma voltage regulator redundant. I've had much trouble with my regulator and the alternator won't run all the lights so I'm changing mine out as soon as my new ignition shwitch and fuse block arrive. Gonna do a clean sweep on the tractor's flukey electrics and get things reliable for a change.

All I can suggest you do is obtain the measurements of the alternator you propose to use and make sure it will fit and that it has the appropriate pulley on it. For the Delco alternators you want a 2-1/2" diameter x 5/8" wide pulley in order to have it spin fast enough at your engine rpms to develop output. The Delcos come in both a 1-wire and a 3-wire configuration - I recommend the 3-wire since it will develop initial output at a lower rpm. The 1-wire has to get up to about 1200 engine rpm before it will self-excite.

Rich

 

[succor]

The fotons and jinma's I think are pretty close to one another, Mine is a ft 254 25hp similar to the jinma 254. Proable should take the old stock alternator with me and compare at the parts desk. Now if I get the 3 wire unit, is there a wiring diagram for it. That would be useful to modify and get rid of the external regulator

thanks

 

[Bob Rooks]

Great, I will check this and let you know what I found out. As for these new alternators, are they still readily available. Up here we have partsource, canadiantire and of course gm dealers. I've seen a picture of the alternator, does it fit in place of these factory alternators or is there modifications?

Thanks

Yes, it's a direct drop-in - same footprint - even uses the same pulley, you just have to put the lockwasher on the backside of the pulley and use locktite on the nut. They will come with a wiring diagram.
I suggest you get the model with the closed face fan because this model draws air in through the rear which is cleaner - doesn't get the direct blast of crap from the radiator. You have to give the Chinese credit though, for installing a TEFC alternator in the first place. A Prestolite 65 amp TEFC alternator will run about $360.00 US.
This is a pic of my installation.

 

[succor]

Hmm interesting, I went to partsource and they have a 10 and 12 si alternator but the footprint looked different being the mounted bolts were futher speaced apart from one another and bigger than my stock unit. Also the pulley's were different size but that could be swapped between the two. I'm not giving up though but I think there is some adjustability with the mounting bolts to make it fit.

Thanks for the pics!

 

[bjr]

I just did a 10SI on a JM 354 Jinma and put the wider pulley on and it took a long neck nut (special). The new pulley is counter bored and is the reason for the nut to fit inside the counter bore. Get the pulley and nut together as a "kit". I'm still tweaking alignment though. It looks like the new alternator needs to be moved forward about a 1/4" to get the belt to run true. bjr

 

[sjb]

Regarding your "clunk", I would check that the wheel bolts, and wheel weight bolts are tight. It doesn't seem likely that a clunk noise would be gear oil related.

Stan

 

[succor]

Good thought Stan, I check the wheel bolts occasionally and they're tight. It sounds like it's from the gearbox straight below me. Almost like something is being thrown around in there. Next time it happens I'm going to put my legs against the box to see if I can feel something hit the walls inside to pinpoint it. If something was broken I would expect alot more rattling in the gearbox though. Because it's been so intermittent I was leaving it alone.