I can put some up later. I have the coldwater loader on my tractor, and it works well...
Here are some pics from my photobucket account.
Here is one after I built my fork bucket and grapple.
This one shows the strut that runs from the loader tower down to the front of the frame.
This one shows the bucket cylinder attach point.
This is of the loader tower crossbar. The large heavy plate above the pin I am removing runs up and bolts in place of the 4 bolt sideplate cover that allows access to the clutch area. You can also see that there is a second attach point that goes forward to attach to the tractor forward frame alongside the engine.
I got my tractor from Coldwater, back when he used to import. It came with the loader, and I have been using it for many years now without any issue. He is down the coast a little ways from me, so I went to look at the tractors with loaders attached. The loader was what sold me on the deal, as it was simple, and very near what I would have built myself, and made for a finished price well under the nearest comparable tractor. The only thing it didn't have was float on the first spool of the control valve(VERY usefull function to smooth ground). When I built the grapple, I replaced the 2 spool prince valve that came on the loader, and put in a 3 spool prince valve(same 5000 series valve) with float on the first spool. If you order one, he can probably set it up with a valve with float. All the hoses fittings and cylinders are all US standard, so any hydraulic shop or wharehouse will have replacement parts for it. I don't have a picture of it, but the loader valve is bolted to a plate that plugs into a tube on the back side of the right loader tower. It is held in place with 2 bolts, kind of like a trailer hitch receiver. Because of this it is really easy to unmount the loader arms and bucket if you should have need. You fully dump the bucket, and lower it to the ground. you pull the top pins and take the valve out of it's mounting bracket. Then you lift/extend teh loader cylinders and the arms lift away from the tower, untill the open mouth of the bucket is on the ground, then you can disconnect the loader cylinder pins at teh towers. The bucket with loader arms will set by itself like this. So all you do is shutdown the engine, reconfigure the quick connect fittings and set teh valve with the loader, and back the tractor away. Sorry I don't have a pic of this, I have only had to take the loader off once in all these years.
A few years after I got the tractor I went back to them looking for a BH. Since they made the loader, they also made a different lower assembly for the loader that accomidates a BH subframe(seen in that last pic). I unbolted my original loader crossbar, and bolted in the new one and then I could attach the loader. They didn't even charge me for that part... If you think you might want a BH in the future, you could probably get the subframe plates.
It does only have a single bucket curl cylinder, but I have had no problem with that configuration. The one thing that people often overlook with the use of a single bucket cylinder, is that the bucket back and top support need to be stronger to accomidate it. The bucket top is a piece of thick wall box tube, and makes the bucket structure very rigid. i figured if I ever had an issue, i could convert it to a double cylinder setup with little effort. The bucket is also very well sized for this size tractor. It can carry a substantial load without overloading the tractor front end too bad...
Good luck