Tractor stuck in reverse, shuttle shift problem?

[jpsheldrake]

Hello,

I am a new member and would like to thank the creators of the site as I have managed to fix some of my tractor issues via threads. I live in Cairns Australia and have approx 9 acres of semi cleared land. I am a novice when it comes to repairs but we do try to fix things ourselves.

I have a 2006 Blue dog 284, manufactured by Jimna Tractor, 28 hp, 4wd, shuttle shift transmission - Serial Number KM385T - Approx 250 hours. Tractor has had three major services!!

I have had a pretty good run with this tractor although the supplier has closed their Cairns operations and were very unhelpful with any feedback, repairs etc. We found an alternative supplier/repairer in the Atherton Tablelands which were really good, however they moved to Darwin.

I have a few problems, the shuttle shift has become disengaged and the tractor is stuck in reverse. The tractor is near a ridge and hence I can't move from its current location. I am planning to get neighbours F100 to try and pull out and then reverse the tractor back to the shed. The tractor with clutch in, is in neutral and then reverse only.

I have read various posts relating to the shuttle shift problems and we have checked this morning and all seems to be OK, the roll pins and cable seem fine. The f/r lever is moving freely, not engaged however we can't seem to engage the lever.

I would really appreciate any feedback that you may be able to provide.

Cheers,

Justin

 

[greg_g]

One correction first, the serial number is not KM385T. That's the engine model type.

You looked at the most obvious reasons for being stuck in reverse, but the cable and roll pins are tricky - especially if the linkage is greasy/dirty. I'd wash it clean with diesel fuel and a paint brush, then take a second look. The roll pins can appear intact from the outside, but still be broken on the inside where you can't see. Try to drive the pin(s) through to see if comes out intact. If it does, you can always tap it back in. If it's broken, consider double-pinning it. That is, nest a smaller diameter pin inside the larger one before tapping both through the holes.

If the pin(s) are good, you may then have broken the shift lump inside the housing.

//greg//

 

[jpsheldrake]

Hi Greg,

Thank you for your prompt response.

I have attached a couple of pictures to assist in this regard.

Just to start, we were thinking the pins were in picture 17, is this correct?

Sorry but best make sure we are checking the right pins, are they under the plastic sleeve?

Thanks again,

Justin

 

[greg_g]

I get the impression that you took photos of the split pins. What I was referring to was the roll pin or pins at one or both ends of the shuttle shift cable. This thread may help as well. But if yours is not actually fixed with roll pins, I apologize for the misdirection.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

I don't think you are looking at the place Greg is refering to(none of yor pics showed it anyway). Should be on the right side of the gearbox, down near the brake pedal, right about floorboard level. The linkage moved by the shuttle shift cable rushes/pulls on a bellcrank that is pinned to a shaft that passes thru the shuttle case side cover. That bellcrank is pinned to the shaft with a rollpin like Greg pictured. If you work the lever, and the bellcrank moves, but the shaft in the center dosn't move, the pin is sheared.

If that center shaft that passes thru the shuttle case cover IS rotating with the bellcrank, the problem most likley is inside, and you will have to remove the floorboard and that creeper side case cover. Inside, the other end of that rod moves a cam/lever like device that slides a rod and shift fork to move the gear from forward to reverse. It could be that that inner cam has sheared it's pin, and the shaft is rotating but the cam/lever inside is not. Here are some inside pics of both the creeper and shuttle transmission, provided by one of our fine parts dealers here.

Jinma Dealer, Wood Chipper , Compact Jinma Tractors

Scroll down the page a little till you reach "(3) 254LE, Shuttle Shift Cover Removed" that should show what we are talking about.

Good Luck

 

[g0rd0]

what has already been said is good sensable advice. I agree with them. Here is something else you may want to try if the problem still exists, block the rear wheels, have some one sit in the hot seat and try moveing the shifter to forward, you will be under watching the cable sheith, if it bends and it stays in reverse with a gloved hand while they are clutching and shifting you operate the leaver that the cable is conected to, if it comes out of reverse then you have to replace the cable or clamp it to the frame to prevent it from bending.

 

[Affordable]

Most of the time it's the roll pin where the shaft comes out of the transmission that shears off,if you can see the arm moving when you move the cable,make sure the shaft inside is turning with it.You may be able to get a nail in it so you can get it back to your shop or barn,if its stuck in reverse pull the shuttle lever to reverse also that should line up the hole to get the nail in

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[jpsheldrake]

Thanks for all your feedback.

I have managed to find the roll pin location and yes you are correct, when we move the f/r lever the shaft inside is not turning.

OK, I have read threads re new roll pins, where do I acquire these from? And do I need to get two one small and one large?

Also, once I have sourced the roll pins, do you simply knock them into the shaft with a hammer? I assume that I keep in reverse position as tractor is still in reverse!!

Thanks again,

Justin

PS Tractor now in Shed thanks to the F100 and some handy reversing!!

 

[greg_g]

Most hardware stores can provide you with replacement roll pins, although not all will carry metric pins. If you can get a big enough piece of the broken one out, take that to the store with you as a size gauge. Also measure the diameter of the place it came out of, so you know what length to buy as well. If it sticks out a little at the end(s), that's ok (as long as it doesn't strike anything). A little too long is better than a little too short. You can get by with one pin, but note how long the original lasted. So I recommend you select a 2nd pin that will push inside the larger pin with a minimum of force. A properly nested pin set will last much longer than a single pin.

Roll pins are much cheaper per pin in bulk, especially if you have a Harbor Freight store close by. Some folks who do this a lot have a roll pin punch set, but I get by just using a nail of the appropriate diameter

When you get back to the tractor, note that one end of the pin is slightly beveled. That's the end you insert, tap lightly on the other end until seated. And yes, installation is the opposite of removal - provided you left the holes aligned in the same position as when you removed the broken pin.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Justin
An Auto parts store may also be able to provide you with one...

Since the pin is hollow, you may be able to use a light on one side and look at the other side to help you line up the holes properly. But since it was sheared, it is probably smeared sideways/bent at the shaft, preventing you from seeing and aligning the bits to drive them out. If you can manage it, it will probably be easier to get the old bits out if you can walk the bellcrank off of the shaft. Then you can drive out the 3 separate pieces with a drift instead of trying to knock one broken piece into another into another, hopeing all is properly lined up...

The light works great for re-aligning the holes/parts to drive in a new pin.

Good Luck