Jinma 284 steering cylinder

[TheSheriff]

Anyone ever taken one apart? Parts manual does not show internals.

I noticed mine leaking several days ago (Around the collar threads, not the rod) and after pulling it off the tractor, thought I found the problem.... assuming that outer threaded collar the rod goes through is not supposed to have a half inch of threads exposed past the end of the cylinder.

The part I'm calling a "collar" had a hard plastic scraper type ring, which seemed OK. Under the collar was another metal disc with a blue seal of some sort around the rod, which also looked OK. Though I didn't study it too hard, it wasn't obvious to me how that part could be removed if needed.

I cleaned it up and tightened the collar, which got snug just as it flushed with the cylinder... problem solved, or so I thought. Nope, it still leaks pretty good when the rod is moving toward full retract.

The obvious is bad seal(s), but I'm wondering if it just needs to be a bit tighter? Or what about an o-ring sized to the ID of the cylinder tube, sandwiched between the collar and the metal disc below it?

Oh, this is a 2010 284 (254) with 180 hours.

Brad.

 

[Rich Waugh]

The rebuild kits for the steering cylinders aren't that expensive; around $25-35, I think. Hydraulic cylinders aren't all that difficult to rebuild and you don't need any special tools so I'd recommend you get the rebuild kit and put it in. If you buy the kit from either Tommy or Ronald, I'm sure they'll provide any advice you need to get it installed.

Aside from that, another option would be to order the rebuild kit and then take it and your cylinder to your local hydraulic shop and have them do the work. It shouldn't cost more than 50-75 bucks, I would think. With the price of the kit that's about half the price of a new cylinder.

 

[TheSheriff]

Thanks Rich,

I called my dealer and he recommended putting some pipe tape on the collar threads, since that's where it's leaking, as opposed to around the rod, which would almost certainly mean a seal is bad somewhere.

So far so good, but I'm not sure if the tape fixed it, or it loosened up on its own (1 hours use) since the last fix. I don't have a spanner wrench to tighten it up and have to rely on the punch and hammer method, which makes it hard to tell torque precisely, but it seemed looser than I had it. I guess if it starts to leak again I'll have a good idea it's loosening up during use.

Brad.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Gee Brad, It only take about fifteen minutes to make a proper spanner to tighten that cylinder properly. Well, if you have a saw and a torch, anyway.

Glad it seems t have taken care of it. As long as the steering works properly with no symptoms of bypassing internally then I'd say you're good to go.

 

[greg_g]

T I don't have a spanner wrench .

One of these is handy to have in the tool box

//greg//