Task Master 425A stopped running

   / Task Master 425A stopped running #1  

sailonner

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
59
Tractor
Task Master 425A
New member first post.
My 2006 Task master 425A, Y385 motor, stopped running a month or so back. It has only 75 hours on it. Changed the fuel filter and bled the system, but still no go. Fuel gets through the return line back into the tank all right. Pulled the injectors to take them in for a check to see if they are squirting at all. But with them disconnected, and turning over the motor, I don't see any fuel coming out the injection lines. That makes me wonder if the injection pump is bad. Kind of acts like it does if you leave the kill switch pulled out and try to start it. BTW, disconnected the kill switch to see if it wasn't returning to the operating position, no difference.

Anyone know the name/part number of the injection pump?

Thank you all
 

Attachments

  • Y385 injection pump.jpg
    Y385 injection pump.jpg
    788.3 KB · Views: 2,597
Last edited:
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #2  
At any time during those 75 hours did you check or change the oil in the injection pump?

Regardless of time elapsed, I checked the pump oil level on mine regularly. I also drained the old and refilled with fresh twice a year; spring maintenance before starting the summer work cycle, fall maintenance before starting the winter work cycle.

So if the answer the the opening question is no, the pump part number is Y380-10100 (or later). Not sure if that includes the hand primer/lift pump or not. If no, that's part number TY290X.02.160 (or later)

//greg//
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Greg,
It appears there is only a breather cap, that won't come out easily. I'll try a bit more elbow grease to see if it'll come loose.
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #4  
New member first post.
My 2006 Task master 425A, Y385 motor, stopped running a month or so back. It has only 75 hours on it. Changed the fuel filter and bled the system, but still no go. Fuel gets through the return line back into the tank all right. Pulled the injectors to take them in for a check to see if they are squirting at all. But with them disconnected, and turning over the motor, I don't see any fuel coming out the injection lines. That makes me wonder if the injection pump is bad. Kind of acts like it does if you leave the kill switch pulled out and try to start it. BTW, disconnected the kill switch to see if it wasn't returning to the operating position, no difference.

Anyone know the name/part number of the injection pump?

Thank you all

What exactly were you doing when it quit? Did you run it out of fuel? how exactly did you bleed the system? No fuel from the injector hard lines could be caused by air trapped in the system. There are several steps in a proper system bleed.
1. Get fuel to the filter bowl. Turn on fuel valve, glass bowl should be full of fuel. there is a screen filter on the fitting that goes up into the tank. If it is clogged, there may be fuel in the bowl, but it is incapable of flow just lig\ke if the fuel valve was shut off.

2. Get fuel from bowl to IP lift pump. The IP has two pump functions. One is a lift pump to draw low pressure fuel to the pump and thru the filter, and second is to force it at high pressure to the injectors. Just forward of the throttle lever on the pump is a screw-on cap with spring under it(the stop lever is almost touching it when in the run position. This is the manual lift pump to help move fuel and purge air from the system. You unscrew it and it should pop up on a spring. Pumping it circulates fuel thru the system without cranking the engine. There is also a screen where the fuel line from the tank connects to the IP housing. Same as screen up at the tank, if clogged, you get no flow... Quick check for fuel flow potential is to disconnect the line where it connects to IP, put it in a bucket and open the fuel petcock at the tank to see that you have a good stream of fuel into the bucket. Having flow back into the tank on the return line is a good thing, so you probably have Ok fuel flow thru the screens.

3. Purge air from filter then from IP housing. On top of the filter housing there is a 10MM bolt. loosen it and pump the manual lift pump till fuel comes out, then re-tighten it. on the top of the IP, near where the hard lines are attached are two 10MM bolt heads, one with a ring thru it. Those are bleed screws. loosen them and pump the lift pump till fuel comes out of these locations. If there is air in the top of the IP, you will get no fuel out of the hard lines, as the individual IP plungers, if full of air, cannot develop enough pressure to push it past the little check valves at the bottom of the hard lines... You can have flow back to the tank, and still have air in the top of the IP!

4. Purge air from injector hardlines. Once the air is bled out of the top of the IP housing, set the throttle on a high setting, and crank the engine over with the compression nuts up at the injectors loosened. If you have a compression release lever, use it to save wear on the starter. If all the air is out of the IP, and the previously mentioned screens are capable of allowing fuel to flow, you should fairly quickly have fuel flow up to the injectors. Once you get fuel out of the injector compression nuts, tighten them back down and see if it will fire... Another test, if you have the injectors out, is to reconnect them to the hardline, but pointing into the air instead of the engine, to see if they will pop/spray fuel. Be carefull atomized diesel fuel breathed, or high pressure injected into/under the skin is really bad for you...

If it fires and runs, go back and re-bleed the 10MM bolts on filter and IP to get rid of any small ammounts of air remaining in the system and which will have collected at the high points where bleed screws are located.

If it dosn't run with fuel to the injectors, the injectors spraying into the air is a good test of IP/injector function. If the injectors won't spray, but you are certain ALL the air is out of the IP and hard lines to the injector, you probably have an IP issue If it will spray, but still won't run, you probably have a cylinder compression issue(not enough compression heat to fire).

Good Luck...
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #5  
Thanks Greg,
It appears there is only a breather cap, that won't come out easily. I'll try a bit more elbow grease to see if it'll come loose.
So I guess that's a no. That breather by the way is the fill/vent, and it's threaded in. There's a hex head beneath the mushroom-shaped vent. Use an open-end wrench to loosen it for removal

//greg//
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #6  
All that Greg and Ron said is good but I would like to add:

1) When operating the lift pump, at any time does it become harder to pump, like coming up against resistance and you hear a squeaking sound? If not then you may just have a faulty pressure regulating valve (sticking open). It is located within the banjo bolt that secures the fuel return line to the fuel injection pump at the top front next to the bleed screw with the ring.

2) Fuel rack sticking in the no-fuel position inside the fuel injection pump. This is a more advanced procedure as there is no mechanical connection between the fuel rack and the governor (throttle lever) and requires separation of the governor from the fuel injection pump assembly.

3) You also show strong symptoms of a "diesel bug" attack. They are a micro organism that is highly corrosive and can do major damage to a diesel fuel system. They are most obvious as a black/brown sludge that plugs fuel filters and screens. This will require more than just fresh fuel, but a thorough cleaning of all fuel system components including the tank, and subsequent treating of fuel with a biocide for some time to come to prevent regrowth.

BTW, I believe a new fuel injection pump / governor assembly runs around $500.00.
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #7  
That breather by the way is the fill/vent, and it's threaded in. There's a hex head beneath the mushroom-shaped vent. Use an open-end wrench to loosen it for removal.
FYI, The mushroom vent cap Greg is referring to is located on the governor assembly.
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #8  
OK, I have to correct myself. On this system the fuel rack can be accessed by removing the lift pump and the side cover plate from the fuel injection pump. It is a rod that moves longitudinally, and should be freely moved by hand. This rack (rod) rotates the helix in the individual plungers that meter the amount of fuel to be delivered to the injectors.
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running
  • Thread Starter
#9  
OK, many thanks to all.

After I get the injectors tested, I'll head back the 150 miles to work on the tractor. It is beginning to sound like air entrapment may still be the issue, but the way it died while running I have to think it is more likely something overheated from lack of lubrication. Or as you guys mentioned, something got fouled by bad fuel. BTW this tractor only has the primary spin-on fuel filter, no in-line screen or bowl. If I get it running again maybe it's time for a racor filter added like I have in my boat. Don't have too many fuel problems with diesels using those type filters.
 
   / Task Master 425A stopped running #10  
...but the way it died while running I have to think it is more likely something overheated from lack of lubrication.
Big misunderstanding for me there. I didn't understand it actually quit while running. You think it siezed up from lack of lubrication, was it hot? Did it smell funny when this happened? WAS THERE ANY OIL IN THE ENGINE?

BTW this tractor only has the primary spin-on fuel filter, no in-line screen or bowl.
I would be very surprised if you have a spin on filter as a primary filter. On these tractors they usually serve as the secondary filter, being located between the lift and fuel injection pumps. The primary filter is located between the fuel tank and the lift pump and is generally 20µ in size wether it be a strainer, screen, or filter element. The secondary filters can go down to 2µ in size. If your boat is a diesel look how the fuel system is plumbed.

If I get it running again maybe it's time for a racor filter added like I have in my boat. Don't have too many fuel problems with diesels using those type filters.
The brand of filter isn't so much important as the filter media size, quality, flow rate, and capacity. Racor filters are OK, but there are better ones on the market. On "my" boat I run triplex 2020SM Racor's as the intermediate secondary filters per engine AFTER the fuel is centrifuged.




12345
 
 
Top