Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22
  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    15
    Tractor
    John Deere 3720; AgPro 354

    Default Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    I have an AgPro (Jinma) 354 which has lost all oil pressure. Bought it used, I'm guessing it was made in about 2006. It has the Y485T engine with what appears to be an old-style oil sump. It has 205 hours.

    The engine often seemed to have low oil pressure when hot, but it finally lost pressure altogether. It was running fine; when I noticed the pressure problem I shut it off and haven't started it since. It cranks fine, though.

    I removed the oil pressure sensor and the filter housing. No oil flows out either opening while cranking.

    I'm assuming the problem is the pump and that I need to drop the oil sump to get to it. Thing is, I can't figure out how to remove the sump. Circle G carries the sump I have. Here's a link to the item: Y485T-2-01701. This sump has 8 bolts along each side and 4 in the front. In addition, the engine mount, hydro divider and front steering hydro lines all bolt to the side of the sump. I've removed all 20 retaining bolts along with the 6 bolts on each side. But the thing won't budge.

    Any ideas how I drop this darned thing? And while we're at it, the drive shaft runs right underneath this thing. Does that have to be removed to drop the sump? If so, what's the best way to do that?


    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    6,028
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Tractor
    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    This has been addressed before, but I don't recall if it was actually in this particular forum. I had a Y485, but it wasn't in a Jinma. But I can tell you that the driveshaft must be dropped if you want good working clearance to remove/reinstall. The sucker's heavy. Again, can't speak directly to the Jinma, but on mine you've done all that's necessary prior to actually dropping the pan.

    Look for a gap between the pan and the bell housing though, to make sure there are no bolts inside the bell housing that thread into the pan. If not, yours is probably just glued to the block - like mine was. In my case, it just took a 3 pound sledge and a cold chisel to get the separation process started. Careful though, that's cast metal you'll be hammering on.

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  3. #3
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    802
    Location
    US Virgin Islands
    Tractor
    Jinma JM304

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    I don't know about the Y485T, but my TY395 engine in my Jinma 304 has bolts from the bell housing to the rear of the sump. Tractor has to be split to drop the sump.

    What does the manual show?

  4. #4
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    15
    Tractor
    John Deere 3720; AgPro 354

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    @Greg: Talk about your coincidences! I've seen you on this forum for years and always appreciated your thoughtful and detailed responses. I just noticed you got a JD3720. So did I. 30 hours on it, and it still has the new car smell. I looked at the kubota and probably would have bought that, but they can't configure both the backhoe and a mid-mount mower. I listed my Jinma for sale two weeks ago, then noticed when I was moving it the other day that the oil pump failed. Rotten luck...

    I have seen some discussions of oil sump removal on Y485s, but I couldn't tell if it was the same sump as mine. I see three different sumps on these engines: One like mine, which is solid cast iron, one like mine but with a removable plate on the bottom, then a more conventional stamped steel sump. Mine appears to be the "original" style. Ugh. I did try getting a wedge in the seam using a small sledge, but it's not giving at all.

    The fact that it's not separating at all -- even towards the front -- leads me to hope it's just stuck. But as you said, I don't want to end up breaking the thing.

    @Rich: Funny thing about the manual: My tractor came with an engine manual for the TY395, so it's only somewhat useful. And the manual shows a stamped steel oil sump, which is definitely not what I have. I had read that some sumps require the tractor be split, but that one scares me. I wouldn't know where to start...

    Thanks, guys.

  5. #5
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    802
    Location
    US Virgin Islands
    Tractor
    Jinma JM304

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    Well - I just went back over the photos I took when I split my tractor and I think I was incorrect when I said the oil sump is not removable by itself. It appears that mine is.

    However, looking at the picture you linked to of the replacement sump for your engine, I see no way of sealing it at the rear and I also see what appear to be bosses in the casting that might indicate that there are tapped holes in the rear end of it. That might make it one that has to be removed only after the bell housing is removed. A call to Tommy at Affordable Tractor should clear up any confusion and set you straight.

    Sorry if I introduced any confusion here!

    Rich

  6. #6
    Advertiser
    Platinum Member

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,338
    Location
    Texas

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    Rich, you were right the first time,the Y385T had 2-different oil sumps,1- had to be split to get to the bolts behind the flywheel ,which is the same as the OP Y485 Sorry but the tractor has to be split, clutch removed,flywheel removed to get to those bolts.

    Cannot tell you the times I had to do this,alot of work for a few bolts.


    The newer version of the Y385T had a oil sump with a removable bottom sump plate that would allow access to the crank,bearings,oil pump,ect.

    Tommy
    Affordable Tractor Sales
    "Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
    Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

  7. #7
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    802
    Location
    US Virgin Islands
    Tractor
    Jinma JM304

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    See, I knew Tommy would have the correct info!

    Fortunately, splitting a Chinese tractor isn't terribly difficult - I did it successfully so you probably can, too. Here's a link to a thread on my adventures splitting my JM 304 to fix an assembly problem: CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS - Login

    Good luck with it!

    Rich

  8. #8
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    6,028
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Tractor
    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    Quote Originally Posted by dmgks View Post
    Any ideas how I drop this darned thing? And while we're at it, the drive shaft runs right underneath this thing. Does that have to be removed to drop the sump? If so, what's the best way to do that?
    Sorry I didn't follow the link in your opening post, I mistakenly thought it was a link to the pump you wanted to replace. I see now you said "sump" rather than pump. Had I not been so remiss, I'd have realized that - whereas we both were talking Y485 - mine had the plate on the bottom, yours is the once piece sump. So given that you have to split the tractor anyway, there's no longer any question about whether or not to drop the driveshaft.

    While the tractor is split, that's a good time to service the clutch system; check the friction discs, finger wear, double pin the clutch fork, wash/grease the TOB (if it's a greasable bearing that is), clean out the bellhousing, inspect the tach sender tip, et cetera. And while the flywheel is off, it might be a good time to consider either re-torquing the bellhousing-to-engine bolts, or replacing them outright.

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  9. #9
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    15
    Tractor
    John Deere 3720; AgPro 354

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    Quote Originally Posted by Affordable View Post
    Cannot tell you the times I had to do this,alot of work for a few bolts.
    If there's any justice in the world, the engineer who designed this is now breaking rocks in a gulag in northern Mongolia...

    Ok, thanks for the responses and links, gents. I'll begin my great adventure...
    John Deere 3720 w/ FEL, backhoe & 72" mid-mount mower
    (retired) AgPro/Jinma 354 w/ Koyker 160 FEL
    6' bush hog, 6' King Cutter tiller, 6.5' King Cutter disk harrow

  10. #10
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    15
    Tractor
    John Deere 3720; AgPro 354

    Default Re: Y485T lost oil pressure - how do I drop the oil sump?

    Update: I split the tractor, pulled the clutch & flywheel and found 4 bolts from the bell housing into the rear of the oil sump. Removed those and worked the sump down and... Lo and behold, there's some chunks of what looks like a broken bearing race in the bottom. There were also two spots (about 2" in diameter) of finely ground metal -- the consistency of powder. The spots were near the center of the sump. The bearing pieces were spread throughout.

    Refresher: This all started when the tractor stopped producing any oil pressure. No oil from the sending unit hole, no oil from the place on the block that the oil filter housing bolts to. I assumed a bad oil pump.

    The oil pump looks to be fine. I pulled it and inspected the gear at the top; it looks fine. The screen was completely clear. I disassembled the pump and it looks fine and moves freely. I inspected the tube connecting the pump to the oil filter port -- no obstructions.

    So... Two questions: 1) Where did the bearing pieces come from? It looks like a bearing race, roughly 54mm in diameter by 8.5mm deep (diameter is hard to pin down since it's in so many pieces; 2) what could be the cause of the oil pump not moving any oil, if the pump looks ok, the oil level was correct, no water in the oil, no oil in the coolant?

    I don't know if it's related, but the tractor started missing in one cylinder at about the same time.

    I don't know where to look next. I'm stumped. Help!
    Last edited by dmgks; 09-09-2011 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Fixed URL to picture
    John Deere 3720 w/ FEL, backhoe & 72" mid-mount mower
    (retired) AgPro/Jinma 354 w/ Koyker 160 FEL
    6' bush hog, 6' King Cutter tiller, 6.5' King Cutter disk harrow

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. High oil pressure on Ford NAA?
    By jgayman in forum Ford Vintage Tractors
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 07-27-2012, 09:34 PM
  2. GM Oil Life Monitor
    By Doc_Bob in forum Oil, Fuel & Lubricants
    Replies: 70
    Last Post: 10-10-2009, 07:15 PM
  3. Oil & Fuel Ford 1600 Oil Pressure
    By scorpion210 in forum New Holland Owning/Operating
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 09-27-2009, 01:27 AM
  4. No Oil Pressure
    By Jim518N381813 in forum General Vintage Tractors
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-20-2009, 10:28 AM
  5. Hows this for new oil discussion
    By neucam in forum Oil, Fuel & Lubricants
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-12-2008, 10:51 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.