Look what I got for $1700

[bjr]

My charging on the JM354 goes thru a 40 amp fuse and once in a while that blows. You might chech to see if there's a fuse in line. bjr

 

[theghoul]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I changed the fluids and filters and will tackle the trans and hydraulic tomorrow.

The battery wasn't holding a charge so I swapped that out. $100, sheesh.

I tested a few leads from the alternator with my multimeter. I got 10volts from one and the others were nada. It started getting dark, so I called it a night.

I have the 3 wire alternator. What voltages am I supposed to get out of it?

The amp meter was showing in the red which (less than 0). Does that mean it isnt putting out anything?

This tractor had 284 hours on it and the oil was black and thick. The air filter also looked dark (pic included). I don't know if it was ever maintained.

More fun tomorrow.

 

[Rich Waugh]

10 volts is inadequate - it takes 13.2 volts or better to overcome the resistance in a 12 volt battery to charge it. You could probably have a local alternator shop check out your alternator and tell you what it needs. I replaced mine with a 65-amp Delco 12Si internally regulated alternator as it was a direct drop-in swap and my voltage regulator was a constant problem. The new alternator allowed me to add work lights, which was big bonus.

 

[theghoul]

10 volts is inadequate - it takes 13.2 volts or better to overcome the resistance in a 12 volt battery to charge it. You could probably have a local alternator shop check out your alternator and tell you what it needs. I replaced mine with a 65-amp Delco 12Si internally regulated alternator as it was a direct drop-in swap and my voltage regulator was a constant problem. The new alternator allowed me to add work lights, which was big bonus.

You didnt have to add any spacers, pulleys or belts?

Looks like its a 1 wire model. My farmpro has 3 leads.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/part-7127m-12v-63-amp-10si-series-alternator.aspx

 

[tigers2007]

A Delco rebuilt alternator will set you back $50 from Advance Auto with one of those 40% off coupons. I had to modify the existing bracket. Check my posting history for a thread with photos.

 

[theghoul]

A Delco rebuilt alternator will set you back $50 from Advance Auto with one of those 40% off coupons. I had to modify the existing bracket. Check my posting history for a thread with photos.

Wow. I saw that bracket you made. :thumbsup: I dont have the skill for that

I guess I should try to find a direct bolt on with 3 leads.

 

[tigers2007]

It isn't as hard as you think. Here is my thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/190308-jinma254-alternator-swap-delco-10si.html

All I did was take the original bracket and extend it and also had a support piece. Just cheapo 3/16" steel from any Home Depot or Lowes. I used a $69 110volt flux welder from Harbor Fright.

 

[Affordable]

If you want to replace with the factory original 3-wire,we have them in stock

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

I have the 3 wire alternator. What voltages am I supposed to get out of it?

Whereas you can get a more analysis of your alternator performance at an auto electric shop, there's a simple field test that's actually easier to perform right at the battery. Put your meter leads on the + and - posts of the battery and note the voltage. Then have someone start the tractor while you watch the meter. A healthy alternator (and good wiring) should cause the meter to jump to about 14.5 volts DC. The difference between 1st and 2nd readings is the charging voltage provided by the alternator. Then as the battery accepts charge, the needle should slowly drop to between roughly 12.2 and 13.2 volts. That's the alternator putting out regular operating and "maintenance" voltage.

The amp meter was showing in the red which (less than 0). Does that mean it isnt putting out anything?

That's reflecting battery discharge, which - if the ammeter doesn't return to center or above after the engine is running - almost inevitably means you've got an electrical short somewhere. You need to track that down before you proceed with the alternator output test.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

I used a Delco 12Si 3-wire alternator and it bolted right on using the OEM bracket, as I recall. It is possible that I made a different bracket, but I'm at the house and the tractor is at the shop so I can't verify it. Since I'm a blacksmith, making a bracket is something I would do fairly effortlessly, though I'm quite sure almost anyone with a hacksaw, drill, file and a bit of time could make one that would suffice just fine.

I do recall that I had to add a washer to the pulley to set it so the cooling fins had clearance, I think. Wasn't difficult or mysterious at all.

I got my alternator on the 'net for about 50 bucks including a pulley that I didn't use since the OEM pulley fit fine on the Delco.

I did add a voltmeter as the Delco conversion bypasses the ammeter since it is too wimpy to handle the 65 amps the Delco puts out.

One thing about metering your current setup- the alternator won't begin to produce it's rated voltage until the engine is turning about 1000 rpm or more. At idle it will probably only put out 10 volts or so. Needs to spin up to energize the field windings.