JM 284 Think my clutch needs adjusting? ?

[chris85]

Ok. Might not be serious. But you'll have to drop the loader mounts to get at the clutch inspection windows. Well, at least one of them anyway. Once you can see inside, rotate the clutchpack a full 360 degrees so you can get a look at all 3 release fingers. They're supposed to each be 2.5mm (+/- 0.5mm) away from vertical face of the throwout bearing. Not too much tolerance allowed either, as they should be +/-0.1mm of each other when finished adjusting. If they're all already within the 0.1mm, you can make the adjustment outside. It's done by adjusting the pull rod Y-collar one direction or the other. But if they're uneven, that has to be fixed first - before you adjust the pull rod length. In some cases the stop bolt must be adjusted as well.

//greg//

Did you by any chance see my other post..
"Off of the clutch pedal there is a link arm attached to a spring, the link arm attaches to a rod that slides over a shaft that comes out of the tractor. The bolt holding this rod to the shaft was broke clean off so I assumed this may be the issue as it looks like this shaft should turn when the peddle is pushed. I replaced the bolt but the shaft does not move at all."

 

[chris85]

Pictures by csebolt - Photobucket


Here are some photos of the shaft where the bolt was sheared.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Odds are real good that's where your whole problem lies. There's a roll pin in that hole and they're known for shearing and you suddenly have no clutch action at all. It's not a bolt - or shouldn't be, anyway. You'll need to have a drift punch the appropriate size to drive out the broken pieces, and you need to get things lined up properly first - that make some probing with a wire or pin to get the arm rotated to the proper spot on the shaft so you can drive out the old broken pin. Once it is out, replace it with a new roll pin (also called a spring pin) and put a smaller roll pin inside the first one to reinforce it. That should solve your problem.

 

[chris85]

Odds are real good that's where your whole problem lies. There's a roll pin in that hole and they're known for shearing and you suddenly have no clutch action at all. It's not a bolt - or shouldn't be, anyway. You'll need to have a drift punch the appropriate size to drive out the broken pieces, and you need to get things lined up properly first - that make some probing with a wire or pin to get the arm rotated to the proper spot on the shaft so you can drive out the old broken pin. Once it is out, replace it with a new roll pin (also called a spring pin) and put a smaller roll pin inside the first one to reinforce it. That should solve your problem.

Looks like the former owner had a threaded bolt as a nut and small portion of the bolt was left. I am able to pull the arm off the shaft and I see nothing in the hole yet the shaft will not even wiggle. I may be missing something in your instructions.

 

[greg_g]

Did you by any chance see my other post..."

Nope sorry. Shouldn't have been a bolt in there, that's a roll pin application. As recommended, drive out what ever's in there now. Make sure the passage is clean end to end (all 3 holes). Make sure also that the inappropriate bolt didn't elongate the outside holes. If yes, buy a new clutch lever. If no, double pin it. Get an 8x32mm and a 5x32 and nest them. That is, tap the 5x32 inside the 8x32. Then insert them into the holes as a nested pair. Helps if you have a roll pin insertion tool. Otherwise the brittle roll pins can snap during installation.

If that doesn't fix it, the next weak point is at the other end of that rod. Inside the bell housing. It's pinned to the clutch fork, another one that has a documented history of breaking. It too should be double pinned. Once you actually have a pedal that works, then those gaps that I identified earlier should be checked and adjusted as required.

//greg//

 

[chris85]

Greg..thanks so much for the info. The clutch arm does look like the holes are elongated..If needed is there an easy way to check the part of the shaft inside the bellhousing or is that a big job?

 

[greg_g]

Yes, but again - it involves dropping at least one loader arm. I find it easier if I can work from both sides. Easier to get the right hand in the right window, and the left hand inside the left window. If you don't have anybody to help you though, at least drop the left one. Because that's the side with the release arm.

That (outside) arm is what moves the (inside) fork which in turn pushes the throwout bearing INTO the clutch release fingers. So when you get a new arm installed, look into the open inspection window while moving the arm back and forth. If the throwout bearing moves in tandem with the arm, your fork is good. If not, the roll pin(s) on the fork have given up the ghost as well. Let's hope the fork is doing its job, because fixing that means splitting
the tractor.

If a diagram will help, note that arm 42 is pinned to shaft 17, onto which fork 19 is pinned. The arm rotates the shaft which rotates the fork which pushes bearing 21 into the three fingers (15).

//greg//

 

[chris85]

Yes, but again - it involves dropping at least one loader arm. I find it easier if I can work from both sides. Easier to get the right hand in the right window, and the left hand inside the left window. If you don't have anybody to help you though, at least drop the left one. Because that's the side with the release arm.

That (outside) arm is what moves the (inside) fork which in turn pushes the throwout bearing INTO the clutch release fingers. So when you get a new arm installed, look into the open inspection window while moving the arm back and forth. If the throwout bearing moves in tandem with the arm, your fork is good. If not, the roll pin(s) on the fork have given up the ghost as well. Let's hope the fork is doing its job, because fixing that means splitting
the tractor.

If a diagram will help, note that arm 42 is pinned to shaft 17, onto which fork 19 is pinned. The arm rotates the shaft which rotates the fork which pushes bearing 21 into the three fingers (15).

//greg//

Ok, so the weather broke and I was able to drop one side of the loader to get a look inside. I hate to even type this out but my initial thought was "isn稚 there supposed to be some kind of lubrication in here?"
So nothing looks out of place or stood out as even looking like I could see a problem. There is a little bit of surface rust on things but the fork looks intact and yet that shaft will not rotate in the slightest. I will get some photos and post shortly. Looking for more ideas.
:confused2:

 

[chris85]

Photos attached

 

[chris85]

Sorry for all the questions, but how can I tell if the roll pin at the fork is still good, looks like there may be two of them, is that possable?