Oil & Fuel temp rising?

[slammer3364]

First thanks for the help with banjo bolt. Run tractor thirty minutes and my temp gauge goes up over 80,plety of fluid and it dont seem hot,the gauge does vibrate alot when I start up thanks.

[RonMar]

First thanks for the help with banjo bolt. Run tractor thirty minutes and my temp gauge goes up over 80,plety of fluid and it dont seem hot,the gauge does vibrate alot when I start up thanks.

Are the air passages thru the radiator clean/clear? That is usually what makes my temperature rise above normall when brushhogging. I have a window screen pre-filter wrapped around the radiator protector to catch most airborn debris that I need to clean regularly while working. Even with this, fine dust will collect in the radiator after a while and must be blown clear every now and then with compressed air to maintain radiator efficiency...

[greg_g]

First thanks for the help with banjo bolt. Run tractor thirty minutes and my temp gauge goes up over 80,plety of fluid and it dont seem hot,the gauge does vibrate alot when I start up thanks.

80C coolant is normal (assuming you have the usual 80 degree thermostat). And oil temp tracks with block temp. Warm weather's here, so expect working temp to rise proportionate to ambient temp. Obviously 80C is best,. But as long as you can keep it under 100, dont' start looking for problems that don't exist.

Oh, and if you change the radiator cap - make sure it's 7 psi or under. 3 to 4 psi is OE pressure, but aftermarket caps that low are hard to find. And keep the coolant mix at 50/50. More or less in either direction can also increase coolant temps.

//greg//

[robert421960]

i seem to have the same problem so i blew mine out this am with my air compressor and i can see through most of the finns but i was bushogging today and it still got almost up to 100 and that concerns me

[greg_g]

i can see through most of the finns

"Most" being the operative word. Given that it's a 16 year old machine, I'd say it's time to remove the radiator for a good cleaning - inside and out. Probably worthwhile to have it professionally done at a radiator shop. New cap and fresh coolant can't hurt either.

//greg//

[robert421960]

oops gotta fix that
its a 2006 sorry greg

[greg_g]

In that case, maybe the radiator shop trip won't be necessary. But "most" is still the operative word. You've still had 6 years to permit dust/chaff/dirt to compact between the fins. The 200 Series cooling system is marginal at best, so must be kept in optimum condition to obtain maximum performance. I still recommend removing the radiator for external cleaning. Once you get it out, you'll see how much stuff is still jammed in there. Soaking in a livestock tank for a day or two usually softens it up enough to come out with compressed air. Don't be tempted to use a power washer, they can destroy the fins.

Then when you get it back in the tractor, do a chemical flush before you refill with fresh 50/50 coolant. I recommend Peak Final Charge 50/50. It's available at most truck stops, and it looks like WalMart had decided to carry it again too. O'Reillys started stocking it recently as well.

//greg//

[Bob Rooks]

I will add to Greg's Final Charge recommendation in that it does much more than just protect from freezing.
It eliminates cavitation hot spots on cylinder liners where the rings turn (piston stops momentarily to change direction)
and is actually "wetter" than water which means it carries away and releases heat better, and circulates easier.
I also recommend the installation of a coolant filter, which traps the ever-releasing casting sand and other contaminants and keeps the cooling system clean.
This is an item found on larger high end equipment.

[slammer3364]

Thanks for tip, should have thought of it myself.Blew radiator out and brush-hogged temp went up to about 60,then brush-hog broke everything running for the next 5 minutes anyway,Have a Good One guys Slammer