Jinma 304 tractor was running with low pressure at idle. Now no pressure at all.

[Soundguy]

any way to throw another gauge on there to verify?

 

[bgarretson]

So it appears the Y480 has to be split just as your Y485. I should have figured. But after removing all of the bolts on the pan I realized that it still won't come off.
So here is my novice question:
How do I split the tractor? What does this require? I am learning as I go and hope to look back fondly at this experience as a learning experience. But for now I am a little frustrated.
Thanks
Brian

 

[Soundguy]

i know near nothing about your machine.. but seeings as you are asking a question about splitting and may be a novice.. let me advise you to make sure you wedge and block the front axle pivot to keep the front from laying over.

ps.. good timber cribbing, good jack stands and hd jacks are nice to have.. especially a rolling floor jack.
try to avoid ratcheting hi lift jacks and other wobbly small base jacks, and never use hollow cell concrete blocks.. and never rely upon jacks or hyds.. only solid wood cribbing and hd good jack stands.

if your first time.. work on a solid flooring like concrete or asphalt.. not sand
.. once you've split 2 or 3 tractors.. you can go ahead and do one in a pasture under a tree on a piece of plywood.. but don't make that your first experience..

good luck!

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I guess the first thing is to verify what style of oil pan you have. On my tractor after I got all the bolts off I had to bang it for a while with a cold chisel to split the gasket so even if you have the style that you can drop without splitting the tractor it may come off hard. If your pan looks like the one in this picture:
Y485T-2-01701

it's the style where you have to split the tractor. Note that there are eight bolts on each side, four bolts on the front, and then bumps on the back edge where the four bolts go through the transmission casing and into the pan. It's those four bolts that make you have to split the tractor. Note also that there are four bolts on each side that connect the front axle to the oil pan.

I ended up having to split my tractor twice (long story) and the second time only took me two hours, once you know what you're doing and have everything you need it's not that much work. A quick overview of the process: disconnect all the hoses and wires that go from the front half of the tractor to the back. Put a wheeled jack under the transmission and a support under the engine. Unbolt the engine from the transmission. Wheel the transmission back away from the engine. Remove the clutch and flywheel. Remove the bolts that hold the back of the pan. Support the engine from above and unbolt the front end. Now the pan will come off.

I want you to verify that you have the type of pan I'm talking about and then I'll give you detailed instructions for each step.

 

[greg_g]

after removing all of the bolts on the pan I realized that it still won't come off.

Don't get ahead of yourself. Taking these plates off the first time is a PITA. Same problem removing OE spin-on filters. Besides the fact that the paint is applied with a trowel, they use super-glue and paper gaskets. First time removal requires a stout screwdriver or slim cold chisel and hammer to break the seal that the paint and glue has on the plate. Once you crack that, it's a simple matter of prying it loose the rest of the way around the circumference.

When you put it back together, thoroughly clean off all paint/glue/gasket residue from both sealing surfaces. Then use a proper gasket made of an oil/gas resistant compound. Since proper pre-cut (OE) gaskets don't exist, I buy bulk gasket material from NAPA, and cut my own. With the right gasket material, I don't find using a sealer to be necessary. But if you must, use a non-hardening sealant. From that point on you won't ever again face the "stuck plate" issue.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

wow.. i had no idea the jinma oil filter gaskets were such an issue...

 

[quicksandfarmer]

wow.. i had no idea the jinma oil filter gaskets were such an issue...

Oil pan gaskets, not oil filter.

I'm not sure I agree with everything Greg said, but yeah, they stick them on tight. It takes some effort to get them apart and some work to clean the pieces off.

 

[Soundguy]

ahh.. he mentioned spin on filters and that's what I thought he was referring to aboutt he glued on gaskets..

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I got a PM from Brian saying that he thinks he needs to split the tractor. I'm going to reply here so that everyone can share my response.

First, gather the appropriate tools:
A set of metric sockets, 7mm to 27 mm. Virtually all of the bolts are 13, 16 or 19 but there are a few small ones and a few big ones.
A set of box wrenches, 10mm to 27 mm.
Socket extensions, a socket driver, and a swivel extension.
A transmission jack. I used this one: Transmission Jack - 450 Lb. Capacity and it worked great.
A trolley jack or other way of lifting the engine from below.
Pieces of 2x4 and 4x4 and smaller wood to use as blocks.
Some way of lifting the engine. I used a come-along hooked onto a rafter in my barn, you could also use an engine hoist.
Buckets for collecting fluids.
A fuel can.
A torque wrench.
A hammer.
A philips head screwdriver.
A cold chisel or similar for separating the oil pan from the engine block.
A gasket scraper or sharp wood chisel for cleaning the old gasket from the oil pan and block.
A cup
Shop towels
rubber bands
A camera
A pen and paper.
Duct tape.
Hand cleaner
Rubber gloves.
A clutch alignment tool. I think the only source is Affordable.
Replacement gaskets: oil pan, 2 oil pump, transmission housing.

You also need a place to work with a hard floor that allows you to roll the tractor. I recommend putting a sheet of rosin paper or newspaper down to catch anything you drop and keep it clean.

I will post the procedure in sections. As you do this, keep in mind that the tractor weighs almost 4,000 pounds and there is a real danger of it falling on you. Never rely on a single support if the failure of that support would cause the tractor to fall.

You will remove a lot of fasteners in this process. Keeping track of them is a real challenge. What I do whenever possible is put the fastener back on where it goes once I have the part removed.

Instructions are for my tractor. Jinma being Jinma, yours may vary. Instructions are from memory as I don't have the tractor in front of me.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Part I: preliminaries
Put the tractor where you want to work on it.

Disconnect the battery ground.

Open the hood, and disconnect the two support rods that hold it open. Tilt the hood back so it rests on the steering wheel. You might have to adjust the path of the wires that go to the headlights to get the hood to go back all the way. Disconnect the bracket that holds the bottom of the hood supports from the engine block.

Drain the oil into a bucket, like you're doing an oil change.

Disconnect the front driveshaft: At one end there are three bolts. With those three bolts removed you can compress the shaft enough for it to come free. Inside each end are three ball that will drop out as you remove the end. Hold a shop towel under the end as you pull it free to catch the balls. Wrap the balls in a shop towel and set the whole thing aside.