I've seen a thread, but I don't think it was on TBN. It included such things as welding bar stock strips near some of the pins to make sure the metal doesn't spread and allow the pin to be freed at one end. Some pins got a mild touch weld. Another thing the thread mentioned was to shore up the subframe if yours is weak...some were, but some later ones were stronger. The last thing it mentioned is tying into the top link mount with some new steel to make the sub frame more rigid.
My laptop was stolen during a break-in, so my links are gone now. I saw other links were folks lowered the return line to be lower in the tank to cut down on aeration. It should be modified at the same time, possibly getting away from the banjo fitting altogether so that the back pressure is lowered. Some folks at that point add a filter cartridge under the valve ( a return filter) to keep the fluid cleaned up.
I saw links where people were slowing down some of the movements, particularly the boom movement by drilling small holes in pennies and inserting them in the plumbing near the control valve.
I personally found evidence of water encroachment in mine when I first bought it (it had been outdoors for years.) So I keep silicone rubber covers over the fill hole and the dipstick to make sure water can't get in during a rain. It may also deflect a bit of dust.
I hear the seals in the cylinders are lousy (when original) so it pays to have spares, and the spares are a different material in many cases, and is better and more durable.
I hear the mechanics are very strong with these minor modifications, and you can get descent work out of them.
If I find any of the links, I'll post them.
Edit:This site is great, and this link is good
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/Hoeinfo.html