Backhoe changing frame mounted to wheel mounted backhoe

[westend]

I have a frame mounted backhoe (jinma) on my Jinma 224.
I have 2 questions about it.
1. Is there an easy way to take the backhoe off of the tractor?
2. Does anyone have experience with putting a backhoe on wheels and tow it behind the tractor?
I have an old trailer with a 1-ton axle and I want to use this axle for the backhoe!
It would be nice to get as many ideas as possible!
Many thanks and have a Merry Christmas :licking:and a happy New Year from Belgium!!!!:dance1:

 

[bcp]

Something like this?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...update-im-making-progress-14.html#post2485284

 

[westend]

Yes bcp, that's what I ment!
Anyone experience with this sort of backhoe? Is it a good idea to change my frame mounted backhoe (CW06) in such a backhoe on wheels?

Jack

 

[Carl_NH]

Jack,

I only have experience with an old 3PT BH on an older Kubota and the 3PT connections to the tractor were the biggest headache.

I cant offer any experience in removing yours - maybe a picture ? If it has a subframe and or is rigid mounted my feeling is to leave it alone and not modify..

Why do you need a wheeled BH? For portability from site to site? Or to use the tractor for other purposes?

Carl

 

[RonMar]

My question would be the same as Carl, why would you want to? Unless you have a Hyrdraulic power unit just laying around, it would not make all that much sense...

As for removal, well the frame mounts are not quick detach, but it is not all that difficult either. I can have my frame mount jinma BH off in about 5 minutes maybe... With some help of a friend, we put together this little Power point to show how it is done. hope this helps.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Unless you intend to have a lot of weight added to your trailer mount, say 800 lbs. to 1,000 lbs., I don't think you'll be very satisfied with the performance.
You will have very little down pressure due to the weight limitation, so at best all you will be able to do is scrape and curl the bucket. If and when you do this project be sure to install and wear a seat belt. You'll find out why.
Also, if there are springs on that old 1-ton axle trailer I suggest removing them - this has to do with the seat belt recommendation.
Note in the Kubota pics that there are no axle springs. Also note how far the outrigger pads are buried in the soil. That setup bounces a lot.

Good luck.

 

[EE_Bota]

My question would be the same as Carl, why would you want to? Unless you have a Hyrdraulic power unit just laying around, it would not make all that much sense...

As for removal, well the frame mounts are not quick detach, but it is not all that difficult either. I can have my frame mount jinma BH off in about 5 minutes maybe... With some help of a friend, we put together this little Power point to show how it is done. hope this helps.

Thanks Ron. I downloaded a copy to give me ideas for when my time comes.
I bought something recently called a bull pin. It is a long tapered pin that can be used to align holes. If a man had to remove one of these BH's very often, a custom bull pin would be great. Just get the holes close, drive in the bull pin, and then use the real pin to drive the bull pin through.

 

[westend]

Hello Ron
Thanks very very much for the Power Point!! I am going to try it out so I know how much work it is and how long it takes to take the BH off and to put it back on.
One reason to take it off is that I don't need the BH very often and another reason is that I want to buy a wood chipper for the 3pt. I also want to tow a trailer.
Bob is making me think of not doing the transformation. He has good arguments! Thanks Bob for you opinion.
Jack

 

[RonMar]

Having done it a few times now, it really is not all that difficult. Getting backed into position to get the holes in the front of the frame rails is the trickiest part of getting it back on. Once it is close, I have a short bar to help align the front pins. A bullpin is an excellent idea. I also thought about boxing in the front pin area with guide ramps to help guide the rails into their slots when backing in over the frame. I guess I could also weld a pyramid pointed end onto the end of the guide rail to help guide it into place.

Once one of those pins is started and the BH pump is hooked up, it is fairly easy to position the BH frame with the outrigger and bucket/boom controls to align all the other connections and bolts for the rear plates. One change I have made to make it easier is to weld the nuts onto the rear triangle attach plates that hang on the 3PH lift arm pins. This makes starting the hardware easier and the tightening or loosening a single wrench affair.

 

[westend]

When I am thinking of it, perhaps 2 longer hoses on the oilpump can help a lot. Then one can use the outrigger en bucket before one pin is attached. The idea of guide ramps is spendid (I'll break my head about how I can do it). Welding the nuts can help too!
By the way, last year I changed the outriggers in sort like those of a JCB. 2 tubes going in and out by a cilinder. I will posts an few pics tomorrow. I first have to make the pics. I did that because I used the BH a lot in small narrow places and the original outriggers were too wide. Also now the outriggers don't damage so much!
Ron, I want to ask you if you have attached your BH on the upper point of the 3pt. On one of the threads I saw that someone did it. I am wondering if this doesn't put a lot of stress on the castiron casing of the 3pt. What do you think of this?

Jack