Hey guys I dont seem to be charging anymore on my farm pro 2425. I thought it might be the battery but not sure now. I took a meter and with the tractor running I put the leads on the battery terminals and only shows a little over 10 volts. I also touched the biggest wire coming off the back of the alternator and the other to a ground with the same response. Can the alternator be checked this way? So would this be a bad alternator?
farm pro 2425 alternator
- Thread starter ymurf
- Start date
succor
Silver Member
Sounds like bad grounds! Check your main ground for the battery, I've ran into ground problems on my foton 254 with similar issues to yours. You need good clean contacts. If it's the alternator I use to have which was only rated for 14 amps than the alternator could be a possibility. I upgraded mine as well as my grounds and everything works just fine.
What did you upgrade yours with?
doxford jim
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,007
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Tractor
- 1959 MF-65 sold, 2007 Jinma 554 diesel.
First, I would replace the voltage regulator with a new one and see if it works properly. That would be a cheap fix if that is the problem. The regulators seem to be a frequent problem on these tractors.
Jim
Jim
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2007
- Messages
- 3,854
- Tractor
- Dozer (sold), Yanmar SV40 excavator, Skid steer (sold), Laser Dozer, Rotary trail cutter, 13 HP debris blower, 6X4 Gator. Giant G2700HD+ wheel loader.
True, the OEM alternator are only rated at 14 amps, BUT they are Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) alternators which are very desirable to have. Most all high end equipment have these. You can get a new Motorola/Prestolite TEFC 12v 55 amp alternator for around $400.00. That being said, a lot of folks have installed the Delco 10Si or 12Si one-wire automotive alternator in place of the OEM. It has the same footprint and mounts and it bolts right in. You will have to find a smaller pulley to fit the Delco because the diesel engines don't spin them fast enough to get satisfactory results. You will also have to eliminate your ammeter and install a volt meter. There is only a small wiring change necessary.
But like the others have stated, check ALL of the grounding connections.
But like the others have stated, check ALL of the grounding connections.
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
We keep both the voltage regulators and theOEM replacement alternators in stock, I also have a few upgraded alternators a 350 watt or a 500 watt upgrade.I too see alot more bad voltage regulators than alternators.Let us know if we can help you
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2007
- Messages
- 3,854
- Tractor
- Dozer (sold), Yanmar SV40 excavator, Skid steer (sold), Laser Dozer, Rotary trail cutter, 13 HP debris blower, 6X4 Gator. Giant G2700HD+ wheel loader.
No. The output wire on the alternator reads battery voltage. You still need a good ground at the battery to complete the circuit.
It is also true that you still may need a voltage regulator and/or alternator.
RonMar
Elite Member
Not sure what year your tractor is, but this may help.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...electrical-schematic-2005-2005jinmawiring.jpg
If you are seeing battery voltage on the output wire on the alternator, either the alternator field/stator is at fault, or more likley the regulator is not feeding current to the field to generate alternator output. Why the reg is not doing that is the real mystery. Garbage in = garbage out, so along that line you need to make sure the regulator has good connections and all it's inputs. There is a REG fuse on the fuse panel that powers the regulator. If the regulator is on the newer style power panel(uses blade style automotive fuses), it is the little module with heatsync fins plugged in right beside the fuse panel. Mine actually vibrated loose once and I almost lost it if I hadn't noticed it at a weird angle when I stopped to clean the radiator filter while brushhogging. It now has a large ziptie securing it in place...
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...electrical-schematic-2005-2005jinmawiring.jpg
If you are seeing battery voltage on the output wire on the alternator, either the alternator field/stator is at fault, or more likley the regulator is not feeding current to the field to generate alternator output. Why the reg is not doing that is the real mystery. Garbage in = garbage out, so along that line you need to make sure the regulator has good connections and all it's inputs. There is a REG fuse on the fuse panel that powers the regulator. If the regulator is on the newer style power panel(uses blade style automotive fuses), it is the little module with heatsync fins plugged in right beside the fuse panel. Mine actually vibrated loose once and I almost lost it if I hadn't noticed it at a weird angle when I stopped to clean the radiator filter while brushhogging. It now has a large ziptie securing it in place...
Tractor is a 2003..From the prices I am seeing on new alternator from farmpro I may try and swap it out for the gm one.My wiring is a nightmare anyway. Half the stuff dont work and the other stuff like the dash lights has never even been hooked up since new.No wires even going to them for lights. Fuel gauge lasted till about 2007, Then I did a fuel fill up to full.If I fill up to the fill neck it will leak where it goes into the tank.The fuel gauge quit then.The needle that shows voltage has never worked either.And this tractor has only 140 hours on it.