Blown 30 amp fuse Jinma 224

[Rich Waugh]

First try plugging the VR back in - the problem I had was that the VR would get partially unplugged and then blow the main fuse. Once the VR was seated properly in the block, the fuse didn't blow.

 

[jaroban]

Voltage regulator was the problem. Thanks so
Much for helping me find the problem. I
Can mow some more this weekend. Robby

 

[jaroban]

Okay guys I replaced my voltagr regulator and all was well. I started the tractor on Sunday With a screwdriver at the starter sylenoid. I have no blown fuses and the gages do not work. I am not sure where to go from here. The tractor preforms great. I have no lights ,that is an usue becuase I often run the tractor at night. Any thought Thanks Robby

 

[jaroban]

I have the ford ign switch I checked for voltage this afternoon. I have power to the #1(amp meter) position when the key is off. that is all when I move the key to any other position I have nothing. I assume that I have a bad switch. Robby

 

[greg_g]

There is ordinarily a nominal 12 volts at the switch input post at all times, regardless of switch position. The rest doesn't sound right. The typical voltage path is

• battery
• starter/solenoid
• system fuse
• ammeter
• keyswitch
• load
• ground

When the switch is in the OFF position, the current stops there. Any other switch position permits the current to pass through on the way to ground. That completes the circuit, which is reflected by ammeter movement.

Keyswitch failures are typically progressive rather than simultaneous. When you found voltage at the switch input (ammeter) post, you had the positive meter lead on the post and the negative lead on ground. When you check the other key positions, you only move the positive lead from post to post relative to the key position. The negative lead stays on ground. Assuming that's the way you conducted your voltage checks, "bad switch" sounds like an accurate diagnosis.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

That is what I did on the switch. It
Is weird to me that the switch would
Fail all at once. When I changed the
Voltage regulator I had no trouble. I did
Not move the tractor I just started it.
The next time I used it is when I had
The problem.

 

[greg_g]

Go back and see if you still have 12v at the switch. It's possible you blew the system fuse in the process of checking the rest of the switch positions

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

I rechecked the switch. I still have power to the# 1 terminal and nothing anywhere else when I turn the key.
I ordered another
Ford switch. In the meantime I will use a screwdriver to start it with. Greg thanks for your input. You help allot of us shade tree mechanics out. Robby

 

[jaroban]

I got a new ford switch. Before I installed it I checked for voltage. I have 12.4 at the starter solenoid and that is all. I checked the switch, the main fuse, amp meter and the voltage regulator. No voltage anywhere. I pulled the main fuse and checked it it is good. I took the ground off and cleaned it also. I still have the same problem. No gauges and will not start unless I use a screw driver at the solenoid. I have an after market amp meter that is several years old. I dout that would be the problem. It seems to me that I am loosing power between the starter solenoid and the main fuse. I also put a jumper on the clutch switch. Any new ideas? I pulled the volt meter and check for power in the terminals I got no voltage.

 

[greg_g]

Hate to say this, but it sounds like you connected 12v to the wrong post on the keyswitch.

//greg//