Liquid filled tires

[cleat]

I finally got around to filling my rear tires. Tire size is 15-19.5NHS R4. I used RV antifreeze and put in around 220 litres (58 gallons). Total cost was around $210.00.

I figure I just added around 470lbs to the rear of my tractor. That should help with traction and stability.

I used a small submersible pump in a pail and an old hose from a tire pump to fill the tires until liquid was at the valve with the valve at the 12:00 position. Took around 2 hours to do both tires.

Hopefully I will not require 4x4 as often.

Cleat

 

[lew61]

"I used a small submersible pump in a pail and an old hose from a tire pump to fill the tires until liquid was at the valve with the valve at the 12:00 position."
When I filled my tires, I was told to fill to 70% rather than 100%. You need air in the tire ~30% to provide a cushion.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Straight anti-freeze won't provide freeze protect either. Must be mixed with water: 75% max. Also, what will happen when the weather gets hot and the anti-freeze expands with no air? Will the tire expand at the same rate? Hope so.

 

[sam5570]

yeah you need to get some of the antifreeze out of tires 70% is correct, i don't know where the idea came from that pure antifreeze will freeze but it's not so that's all i have used in my vehicles and tractor's sence 1970's i drain everything out start engine run till thrmostat opens drain it all and fill back with pure antifreeze.

 

[PRF]

Unmixed glycol antifreeze will freeze at around 0 to -5*F.. It also won't dissipate heat as well.. Always best to mix 50/50 with distilled water, at least for engine use that is.

 

[powerpace]

With 100% fill there is a possibility if you bounce a little hard the tire will break the bead and there goe's the fluid.

 

[cleat]

It's filled to the top of the rim, not the top of the tire. Still took lots of air to bring back up to pressure. The RV antifreeze I bought is to be used at 100% strength.

Cleat

 

[Rich Waugh]

Antifreeze intended for use at jug strength has already been diluted to 50/50 or thereabouts so you're fine. The amount of air you have remaining in the tire is fine, too. I filled my ties that way, using plain water with just a dab of biocide, and I've had no problems. It doesn't even get close to freezing here so no worries on that front, and that is enough air to allow for tire flexion on even hard drops and bashes. I'm sure glad I didn't have to buy a couple hundred bucks worth of antifreeze - another good reason to live here!

 

[cleat]

In reality I didn't need the antifreeze either as my tractor sits in a heated shop unless it's working blowing or clearing snow. I am hoping the antifreeze will protect the wheels from corrosion as I do not have tubes.

 

[greg_g]

You should be just fine. Assuming you didn't dilute it, typical RV anti-freeze is good down to -50F. There's even some double strength stuff that's good down to -100F. Given that it's intended for use in potable water systems, it's also non-toxic and biodegradable. And it depends upon rim design, but filling to a stem that's positioned at high noon pretty much guarantees a 70% to 75% fill.

But compared to Rimguard, RV anti-freeze is lighter and more expensive. RimGuard is basically diluted beet molasses, which doesn't start to firm up till about -35F. At ~8.8 pounds/gal, RV anti-freeze is only marginally heavier than water. I had 88 gallons of RimGuard pumped into the R4s on my 3720 (I filled all four). It weighs 11.3 pounds to the gallon, and cost $2.70/gal installed. So for $237, I added nearly 1000# to my 37290 - and didn't even get my hands dirty.

And for those who haven't done any liquid ballasting, expansion is not a problem. It's simply a matter of filling to the 12 o'clock valve stem, then topping up with compressed air to the recommended pressure. You can even get a special pressure gauge, one designed for liquid filled tires. It's got a check valve to prevent any of the liquid from back-filling the gauge under pressure.

//greg//