Jinma JW-03 Backhoe Removal

[DoctorZoidberg]

Hello,

I recently purchased an Iron Horse tractor (Jinma 284) that came with a JW-03 backhoe attached. I have a manual for the tractor itself but I am unable to locate a manual for the backhoe. I am looking to get some 3-point hitch implements for the tractor but I am unsure of how to remove the backhoe from the tractor in order to hook up the implements to the 3-point hitch. From what I can tell the backhoe has its own auxiliary hydraulic pump that is attached to the tractor directly above the PTO with 4 bolts (see attached picture). My question is, in order to remove the backhoe I assume I need to unbolt the entire pump and not just disconnect the hoses, is this correct? If so, is there some sort of cover that goes over where the pump is currently attached? I bought the tractor used and it did not come with any sort of cover for that.

Also, from what I can tell this is a "sub-frame" mounted backhoe and not a 3-point hitch mount backhoe and I just want to verify that is indeed correct? Once the backhoe is removed, is there still a standard 3-point hitch still attached to the tractor or was that removed in order to install the backhoe in the tractor? I see things on the tractor that look very similar to the 3-point hitches I have used in the past on other tractors but it does look different enough to what I am used to to make me question it! Which parts would I disconnect and leave with the backhoe and which stay on the tractor?

Sorry the pictures don't show all of the hook ups, I can take better ones tomorrow when it is light out again. I have highlighted where I think I need to disconnect the backhoe, any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. (I have also included the original photos so you can see a bit better.)



Thank you!

 

[Affordable]

You have a 3-point backhoe, remove the top link and the 2- lower pins ,take the pump off and its loose, you will need to block it up.Once you pull away you should have your top link and the 2- lower(Black) lift arms to hook up any other 3- point equipment

You will need the pump cover plate and gasket, I have those in stock call 979-865-4002 we can get you fixed up,we also have any other part you may need, just look uner Jinma 200 series for tractor parts, on the engine you should have the Y385


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Tommy,

Thanks so much for the quick reply! On the internet all the information I found made it sound like they only made this backhoe in a sub-frame mounted model, glad to know for sure what it is now!

One follow up question, once the pump is removed what do you mean by "blocking it up"? Sorry for the newbie questions

Thanks again!

 

[quicksandfarmer]

One follow up question, once the pump is removed what do you mean by "blocking it up"? Sorry for the newbie questions

Putting something under it -- a "block" -- to keep it from falling. That things weighs about a thousand pounds. If it moves after you take it off the tractor you'll have quite a time getting it back into a position where you can attach it to your tractor. If it falls over someone could get seriously hurt.

What a lot of people do is make a stand with wheels to hold it when it's not being used. I did that with my loader and it makes putting it back on a million times easier.

 

[RonMar]

Yep, I put mine up on cinder blocks just inside where the outriggers attach to the frame. I of course put the outriggers down and I lower the boom till it rests on a curled bucket. Mine sets pretty well like this. You will need to put that plate and gasket from Tommy where you unbolted the pump from the back of the tractor...

With the help of a friend, I did up a powerpoint on how to remove a frame mount type hoe a while back You can see it in this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/266928-changing-frame-mounted-wheel-mounted.html

Yours will be easier, just lift the 3PH a little to remove the locking bars, then set the BH frame down on blocks. Lower the outriggers and boom onto a curled bucket then disconnect the lift arms and toplink where they attach to the BH You will use these to carry any 3PH attachments. Unbolt the pump, add the plate over the hole in the back of the tractor and drive away...

EDIT: Just looked at your pics again, and I didn't see any locking bars. these are added hold down bars that run from where the 3PH lift arms attach to the tractor up to around where the toplink is attached. They keep the BH from moving up when you are digging with it...

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Thanks everyone for the information! This is extremely helpful, I will hopefully have a chance to call Tommy today to get the gasket and cover ordered. Hopefully Tommy has some locking bars I can order as well as I have been reading some of the stories about people not having them! Very glad I stumbled across this forum.

Ron, not sure if you know but do you have any idea where the locking bars would attach if I am able to order some?

Thanks again!

 

[Affordable]

Sorry, we do not have any " locking bars ", we have the plate and gasket though

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Rich Waugh]

Locking bars aren't anything special, you can make your own from heavy flat bar like 5/8"x2-1/2" with a hole in each end. They need to go from the lower arm pins to the upper arm pivot points - basically, they're the hypotenuse of a triangle so the 'hoe can't rise up when the bucket is pushed down. The TPH arms have no inherent resistance to raising - they cannot exert down pressure, in other words, so you need the braces for the hoe to be effective at digging.

 

[DoctorZoidberg]

Called Tommy and ordered the part tonight, hopefully it will arrive by the time the new box scraper I ordered comes! Can't wait to try it out!

Rich, that's great to hear I will have to see if I can source some locally, is there any specific type of steel you would recommend?

Thanks everyone for all of your help, you guys are great!

Jarrod

 

[Rich Waugh]

Jarrod,

Plain mild structural steel, A-36 will be just fine for these. You don't need any special alloy steel for this job.