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  1. #1
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    Apr 2012
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    Lafayette, TN
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    Jinma 354

    Default Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    hello Everyone,

    I've seen this topic discussed, but frankly the discussion has left me more confused. The Toe on my front wheels (Jinma 354) is off badly. I can turn one wheel 25 percent to the left and the other is still pointing right. The instruction I've seen says to loosen the lock nuts on the tie rods and turn the traversal bar/rod. The bar I have is bent to go around the frame. When turned, it strikes the under side of the engine above it, or the frame below. is the bar supposed to be bend around the frame? If so, do I need to remove the ball joint so I can turn the tie rod? And if this is the case, how do I remove the ball joint? I tried removing the cotter and nut from the top, but the ball joint did not fall from the wheel mount.

    I apologize for my lack of knowledge on the subject. Your advice and experience is greatly appreciated.

    JohnJ

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    You will need to take the Nut off the bottom, the tie rod is on a taper so you may need to loosen the nut ,then tap on it with a hammer to get it loose.You will have 1- left hand thread and one right hand threaded tie rod,you can adjust the tie rods together or separate, depending on how far off you are. Make sure the steering cylinder is close to the middle when you make the adjustments

    Tommy
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  3. #3
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    Nov 2008
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    US Virgin Islands
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    Jinma JM304

    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    Your tie rod should not be bent. There is just enough clearance for it between the engine and the frame, but it is tight. If your tie rod is bent, you need to straighten it before you try to set the toe-in. After you straighten it, get a piece of rebar the right size to slip inside it to keep it from bending again. These Chinese tie rods are made from really soft tubing and bend too easily.

    One reason the tie rod bends is that your tie rod ends get sloppy and allow lateral forces on the front wheels to suddenly transfer to the tie rod, bending it. Been there, done that. So, you might want to tighten your tie rod ends first, then straighten and reinforce the tie rod, then set the toe-in. The tie rod ends are adjustable - open one up and you'll see how to tighten it - set it tight with no play at all.

  4. #4
    New Member
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    Apr 2012
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    Lafayette, TN
    Tractor
    Jinma 354

    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    Tommy,

    Thank you for the quick reply. I didn't even see the bottom nut, just a cotter. I'll get a plastic hammer and give it another look and a wack.

    JohnJ

  5. #5
    New Member
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    Lafayette, TN
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    Jinma 354

    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    Rich,

    Thanks for the info. Is the bar going from the left tie rod end to the right one the tie rod you're referring to? The bend in mine appears to be factory, but it could easily be just plain bent by force, as I've had the tractor in many less than desirable positions. I'll give it remove the ball joints and see what adjustment I can make.

    Thanks again for the good insight.

    JohnJ

  6. #6
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    May 2005
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    867
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    Eastern WA
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    Jinma JM354

    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    I would be surprised if your able to remove the tie rod taper with a plastic hammer. Your probably gonna have to get a least a 3lbs hammer after it while holding down on the tie rod bar with a long pry bar. This might be a two person endeavor. Use anti seize oinment on every nut and bolt you put back. bjr

  7. #7
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    Jinma JM304

    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    John,

    Yes, the bar I'm referring to is the one that goes from tie rod end (really should be called a drag link end, I think) on the left to tie rod end on the right. About three feet long and goes under the engine. Tight fit, but it does make it with some fiddling around.

    On my 304 Jinma, (which has the same running gear as your 354), the tie rod is supposed to be straight. Like I said, they bend way too easily but a piece of 5/8" rebar inside mine stopped that, after I tightened up the tie rod ends. It just takes a big screwdriver to adjust the slop out of the tie rod ends, by the way.

  8. #8
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    Kubota BX2200

    Default Re: Adjusting Toe-In -Jinma 354

    Quote Originally Posted by cnsJohn View Post
    Tommy,

    Thank you for the quick reply. I didn't even see the bottom nut, just a cotter. I'll get a plastic hammer and give it another look and a wack.

    JohnJ
    It's a taper, as mentioned, so if you don't have a ball joint press tool, they can be had cheaply at Harbor Freight, and mine works on those joints.
    Without a tool, I would try instead of a plastic hammer, a nice piece of hardwood. I remove the castle nut, flip it over and screw it on just enough to protect the threads, so the nut itself is what gets struck. I put hardwood on the nut and give it a few whacks.

    Heat helps if applied to the "hole" the joint is in, not the joint itself. I keep water around if applying heat, since if I am getting the joint hot, I don't want to melt the rubber boots.

    Taper joints get REALLY tight due to the taper being drawn tight by the nut. They almost never release slowly, but instead they pop loose suddenly as the taper joint's grip breaks suddenly and completely.
    Which is bigger?: a) $100 per month since the Big Bang or b) the US National Debt.

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