Coolant Temperature Sensor

[minidozer]

Will be replacing my thermostat this year when I do my annual maintenance and would also like to replace the coolant temperature sensor. My engine is a TY395T manufactured in 2002.5.
Has anyone sourced a sensor that can be purchased in an auto parts store?

 

[Loadstar]

Couldn't you just ohm it out and verify it's in range. Just a thought.

 

[minidozer]

Loadstar,

Temperature guage has never worked properly. Guage does move slightly when using dozer but when I lost my fan/alt belt and the engine overheated, temperature guage never showed a problem. Changing the sensor seemed to me to be the logical first step.

 

[Loadstar]

I see and agree might give the gage a test also.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Your thermostat, gauge, and sending unit are probably fine. The real issue is that the themostat is not installed in a way to let it work. See this recent thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...stalling-thermostat-jinma-ty395-engine-2.html

And btw, I use a linked belt. Never have to worry about belts again. Vibration Free Link Belt

And fwiw, I replaced my electric temperature gauge with a mechanical Murphy Switchgage and alarm.

And fyi, once the coolant has boiled out and loses contact with the sending unit, it renders the gauge, any gauge, useless. That's only one valid reason to have a coolant recovery system on your engine.

Also, any dealer that supports the TY395 engine will have the part you need. Circle-G, Affordable, Keno, to name just a few.

 

[Bob Rooks]

 

[minidozer]

Finally got around to checking the coolant temperature circuit. My fingers said I had two wires attached to the meter, one going to the sensor. After pulling the meter, I found that one wire was just for the meter light therefore the meter is mechanical, not electric. Will be switching to a simple electric temperature gauge. Will also switch to the link belt as suggested. Should have checked first before asking the question!

 

[Bob Rooks]

Will be switching to a simple electric temperature gauge.

Nothing is simpler than a mechanical gauge. :thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

Your definition of mechanical is inaccurate. A mechanical gauge would have ZERO wires, and be inserted directly into the media being probed. Your coolant gauge is electrical, and needs a minimum of two wires. The wire between the sensor and the gauge is ground. The other one is 12v from the battery. The fact that it also illuminates the gauge face is incidental. 12v hits the gauge from the battery side, and passes through the sensor on the way to ground.Otherwise you'd never have a complete circuit. The sensor itself is a thermocouple, in which electrical resistance changes relative to temperature. As the temperature changes, so does the resistance to ground. Ground resistance is what subsequently varies the voltage passing through the circuit. These variations are what move the needle.

//greg//

 

[minidozer]

Greg,

I am sorry I was not clearer. What I thought were two wires was wrong. One was a wire only for a small light bulb and the other was not a wire but what appears to be a small copper tube. The reason I pulled the meter was testing with an ohm meter showed no resistance from this "copper tube" to ground. Now I understand why.

A mechanical temperature meter may be very simple but it never worked properly. I am not against replacing my defected temperature gauge with another mechanical temperature gauge but my thinking is I have more thread options with a thermistor sensor and where possible, I want my parts to come from the local auto parts store.

Now if only I could get rid of my "diesel bugs" I would be a happy camper. Yes, I have been using a biocide but it is not controlling/solving the problem. Have decided to switch to a product called Bio Kleen. Have not been able to find locally so will have to purchase from Amazon.