Jinma 284 new owner have some questions

   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions #1  
N

Northoffrisco

New member
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
24
Location
Reno NV
Tractor
Jinma 284
Hello all I recently purchased a 2007 Jinma 284, I am not to familiar with this tractor so I have a couple of questions, maybe someone out there can guide me in the right direction
A couple of things that I've already done with it, I put the correct battery in it, changed out the upper radiator hose and air filter, have purchased all the filters and oils but have not changed them as of today, will do that this coming weekend, changed out a couple of zerk fittings, started to clean it, I know its not a show case but I really do like my things to be somewhat clean, I have noticed a couple of things,
1. it does not want to start up right away it kinda stumbles when cold, when warm not an issue, (thinking about changing out the glow plugs) ?
2. the 3 point hitch has a hard hard time raising when cold, (loaded) (when it warms up after about 20 mins) does just fine, ( I have no idea why) and it raises and lowers just fine after warm. only issue is when its cold
3. when you go to start it, I have to wait around 30 sec to get it to start with the key all the way over to the right, then depress the clutch to engage the starter, I figured there is a position on the key switch to send current to the glow plugs,
Last thing I noticed that the radiator was completely clogged with dirt, I blew it out several times and it seems to run cooler then before
so if there is any help out there on these 3 issues please let me know thanks
Bryan
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions #2  
Welcom Bryan
1. Since it starts well when warm, I would look to the glowplug function. You should be able to see if the glowplugs are heating by looking at the amp gauge. When you turn the key toward start, the location just before the start location is the glowplug position. When you hit this spot, the amp gauge should peg to the left at 30A negative. After about 20 seconds, the needle should start to creep back toward the center as the plugs draw less current as they warm. You only want to warm the plugs about 20 seconds or so as repeated overheat will burn them out. The 3 plugs are in parallel, and each plug pulls nearly 10A on it's own. IF one plug is out, it will only pull 20A and if 2 are out, it will only pull 10A ECT. The key and the wiring to the plugs pass thru a block plug near the right rear of the engine and the single spade terminals are not really suitable for the 30A going to the plugs. Mine were in pretty bad shape and I made some wiring changes to feed the plugs better. The key switch on these is also barely adequate... Another thing to look at is where you have the throttle lever during startup. I find the best location on mine is the throttle lever position that yields about 1200 RPM when running. This gives a little more spring force on the governor to overcome the ball weight and drag during the crank. As soon as mine fires I pull the lever back to the 900 RPM idle position.

2. What hydraulic fluid is in it. If not known, I would reccomend a flush with kerosene and replace with straight AW-32 hydraulic oil. Don't use UTF, these tractors have separate hydraulic and gear sumps, so Hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics and gear oil in the gear sumps... UTF is too thick for the hydraulics and too thin for the gearbox IMO. Does it have an external suction strainer? If it does it would be down in front of your right foot when seated(looks like a spin on oil filter). If so is it the correct part, a strainer cartridge instead of a filter cartridge? If it got a filter inadvertently installed there, that could cause startup/cold hydraulic issues. If you don't have one, the strainer is in the sump, so you should probably check that. Also make sure all the suction fittings are tight. When cold, it is easy for the system to suck in air(especially with too thick a fluid) which will effect performance untill things warm up
3. Covered in 1 above I think:)

My tractor came with a protector plate that slides down in front of the radiator. Most wrap aluminum window screen around this plate to try and catch most of the debris that would clog the radiator. this has worked well for me and is real easy to hop off the tractor and clean while brushhogging as it will clog fairly quickly and start to overheat when mowing tall grass/brush. The screen makes compressed air more effective at cleaning as only the finer dust makes it into the readiator and the air is pretty effective at dislodging this.. I made a long airgun blowpipe out of an aluminum arrow shaft. Right where the nock would glue on, I drilled a 1/8" hole. With this long pipe I can reach 99% of the rear face of the radiator thru the holes at the top corners where the shroud joins the back of the radiator.
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions
  • Thread Starter
#3  
RonMar said:
Welcom Bryan
1. Since it starts well when warm, I would look to the glowplug function. You should be able to see if the glowplugs are heating by looking at the amp gauge. When you turn the key toward start, the location just before the start location is the glowplug position. When you hit this spot, the amp gauge should peg to the left at 30A negative. After about 20 seconds, the needle should start to creep back toward the center as the plugs draw less current as they warm. You only want to warm the plugs about 20 seconds or so as repeated overheat will burn them out. The 3 plugs are in parallel, and each plug pulls nearly 10A on it's own. IF one plug is out, it will only pull 20A and if 2 are out, it will only pull 10A ECT. The key and the wiring to the plugs pass thru a block plug near the right rear of the engine and the single spade terminals are not really suitable for the 30A going to the plugs. Mine were in pretty bad shape and I made some wiring changes to feed the plugs better. The key switch on these is also barely adequate... Another thing to look at is where you have the throttle lever during startup. I find the best location on mine is the throttle lever position that yields about 1200 RPM when running. This gives a little more spring force on the governor to overcome the ball weight and drag during the crank. As soon as mine fires I pull the lever back to the 900 RPM idle position.

2. What hydraulic fluid is in it. If not known, I would reccomend a flush with kerosene and replace with straight AW-32 hydraulic oil. Don't use UTF, these tractors have separate hydraulic and gear sumps, so Hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics and gear oil in the gear sumps... UTF is too thick for the hydraulics and too thin for the gearbox IMO. Does it have an external suction strainer? If it does it would be down in front of your right foot when seated(looks like a spin on oil filter). If so is it the correct part, a strainer cartridge instead of a filter cartridge? If it got a filter inadvertently installed there, that could cause startup/cold hydraulic issues. If you don't have one, the strainer is in the sump, so you should probably check that. Also make sure all the suction fittings are tight. When cold, it is easy for the system to suck in air(especially with too thick a fluid) which will effect performance untill things warm up
3. Covered in 1 above I think:)

My tractor came with a protector plate that slides down in front of the radiator. Most wrap aluminum window screen around this plate to try and catch most of the debris that would clog the radiator. this has worked well for me and is real easy to hop off the tractor and clean while brushhogging as it will clog fairly quickly and start to overheat when mowing tall grass/brush. The screen makes compressed air more effective at cleaning as only the finer dust makes it into the readiator and the air is pretty effective at dislodging this.. I made a long airgun blowpipe out of an aluminum arrow shaft. Right where the nock would glue on, I drilled a 1/8" hole. With this long pipe I can reach 99% of the rear face of the radiator thru the holes at the top corners where the shroud joins the back of the radiator.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the response

when I turn the key on there is no power to the glow plugs as we check it, I have to turn the key on all the way to the right and wait then push the clutch in to get it started, so I will look into this
I'll also check to see if all the fuse's are good as well
As for the Hydraulic fluid, I have no clue what is in there, I was going to change out all fluids this coming weekend, so I will make sure NOT to use UTF and use AW-32 I'm not sure if it has an external suction strainer, I will have to look again but thinking about it I do not think it does
If I do not have an external strainer where would I find the strainer in the sump?
As for the Radiator mine does have the mess screen in front of it I pulled that and cleaned it, but wrapping window screen over it is a great idea, I do have a really long air blower at work we use I can use that as well to get the corners behind the fan shroud,

I also noticed I have a coolant heater installed, for those cold days
I did get a new thermostat, I also read some where there is a air intake mod and exhaust mod on the 284 does it make and difference? not really wanting to make this a race horse but if it will run better I'm up for that
anything else I should look for??
I did brush hog a field last weekend about 6 acres and it did start to get hot, not to familiar with the 284 temp gauge goes to 12 but runs around 8 to 10 most of the time brush hogging, is this normal?
I didnt cut anything after I cleaned the radiator so I cant tell you if is was running cooler or not but the amount of stuff that was in the fins I would put money on it, it will run cooler,
once again thank you
Bryan
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions #4  
Diesel engines like torun at fairly high temps and are inefficient when cold. 185is a good running temp. That would be about 85°C. It is always a good idea to let your engine get warmed up to at least 140°F before working it.

You won't gain anything from messing with modifying your air intake or exhaust system. The existing design has proven to be plenty adequate.

If your glow plugs don't heat when in the "heat" position on the key switch (the one just before "start"), then you need to trouble shoot the glow plugs. Using the glow plugs the engine should start with less than two seconds of cranking. Expect some smoke at first, as cold engines smoke some. That should clear up in a couple of minutes running time.
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Rich Waugh said:
Diesel engines like torun at fairly high temps and are inefficient when cold. 185is a good running temp. That would be about 85ｰC. It is always a good idea to let your engine get warmed up to at least 140ｰF before working it.

You won't gain anything from messing with modifying your air intake or exhaust system. The existing design has proven to be plenty adequate.

If your glow plugs don't heat when in the "heat" position on the key switch (the one just before "start"), then you need to trouble shoot the glow plugs. Using the glow plugs the engine should start with less than two seconds of cranking. Expect some smoke at first, as cold engines smoke some. That should clear up in a couple of minutes running time.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll look into it, I know when the key is fully to the right like u were going to start it I have current to the pulls, they all 3 get power and heat up but I now have to engage the clutch, its kinda backward, I would think you turn it to H position then wait then engage the clutch and turn the key to the right and then start,
the way it starts now is key all the way over to the right and hold it (passed the H) wait then engage the clutch, it works but kinda messed up. I'm in Cali now and the tractor is in NV so I will be back up this weekend and I will look into it, I would sure like to have a set of glow plugs before I go up but do not know the part number or info on them till I pull them I read somewhere there are several different types
Bryan
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions #6  
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It's a Laidong 7SHLL 1.53 LDE
if u can get a price including shipping to 89508 I would be greatful or pm me
thanks I will also be needing some other things as well
Bryan
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions
  • Thread Starter
#9  
thank you
 
   / Jinma 284 new owner have some questions #10  
The current to heat the plug is maintained into the start position so it continues to apply heat while cranking. If the H position in the switch went bad, the way you are doing it would work to provide plug heat before you complete the crank circuit by depressing the clutch and closing the clutch safety switch.
Or someone replaced the key switch with something else that didn't have the H position? Or the key switch is bad(not uncommon).

The mod for the intake is mainly to open up the airflow into the radiator. It is a diesel, there is not much you are going to do to the flow to improve performance by any way you are going to be able to notice:) I relocated my air filter mainly to make it easier to get at that screen in front of the radiator. I also added a coolant overflow tank at the same time. You can read about it here, with pictures. You can also see the window screen on the radiator guard trick in the pics:) It was fairly easy, and has been in service like the pictures for several years now.
AirfilterCoolantRec Johns jinma website is also a great resource for maintenance and repair information...
 
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