Foton 254: Anyone mod their Rad fan to a clutch type?

[D0TC0M]

I was wondering if anyone has modded their tractor's rad fan to install a fan clutch. I noticed the incredible amount of air being moved needlessly and robbing useable power and was thinking of modding my fan to include a fan clutch.

 

[greg_g]

My concern would be how to make sure you get the clutch to engage at the appropriate temperature. For optimum operation, your diesel has to work within a specific temperature window. I'd be afraid of installing one that would engage too late. Or - and this is just stabbing in the dark - how about an electric fan instead? You could install a remote switch to turn it on manually from the operator station - or perhaps there's some way to power it thru the coolant temperature sending unit.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

My concern would be how to make sure you get the clutch to engage at the appropriate temperature. For optimum operation, your diesel has to work within a specific temperature window. I'd be afraid of installing one that would engage too late. Or - and this is just stabbing in the dark - how about an electric fan instead? You could install a remote switch to turn it on manually from the operator station - or perhaps there's some way to power it thru the coolant temperature sending unit.

//greg//

Go with Greg's idea of the electric fan. Much easier to install, and most kits include an adjustable thermostat with cut in and cut out settings. But before you do anything consider the variables. Vehicles that use a fan clutch or electric fan generally have a sufficient amount of forward motion to provide adequate airflow through the radiator at highway speeds - not so with a tractor. You would find it would be on most of the time anyway except when idling. If you are now considering an electric fan, also consider upgrading your alternator too because the OEM alternators only put out a nominal 14 amps - which barely keep up with the lights. So the reason you don't see fan clutches and electric fans on Ag and earthmoving equipment is because they aren't needed. No cost benefit, no efficiency gain. But by all means do it if you're so inclined.

 

[D0TC0M]

I like the idea of the electric fan. They sell them in a kit with a thermo-probe switch at the local auto parts store. I changed out the fan on my jeep to electric and it works well. I already have swapped the generator to a delco LOL, it wouldn't produce enough current to charge the battery when the heater fan and all the lights were on. I doubt the electric fan would come on at all during the winter when snow blowing because I hardly have enough heat to warm up the cab. Removing the old mechanical fan is extra useable power for the PTO

 

[Bob Rooks]

I like the idea of the electric fan. They sell them in a kit with a thermo-probe switch at the local auto parts store. I changed out the fan on my jeep to electric and it works well. I already have swapped the generator to a delco LOL, it wouldn't produce enough current to charge the battery when the heater fan and all the lights were on. I doubt the electric fan would come on at all during the winter when snow blowing because I hardly have enough heat to warm up the cab. Removing the old mechanical fan is extra useable power for the PTO

Excellent, good for you, but I seriously doubt you will notice the difference.
Consider again: A 30 amp relay for the fan, and that the startup spike will be about 50 amps, and 20 running amps for a good 2,000 cfm fan. An additional 20 amp electrical alternator load when running, which adds to the engine load. Just sayin'.

 

[D0TC0M]

Excellent, good for you, but I seriously doubt you will notice the difference.
Consider again: A 30 amp relay for the fan, and that the startup spike will be about 50 amps, and 20 running amps for a good 2,000 cfm fan. An additional 20 amp electrical alternator load when running, which adds to the engine load. Just sayin'.

I only use my tractor for snow blowing and my heater fan is always on. The radiator never ever gets warm because I have a hard time reaching normal operating temperature on the temp gauge. I even completely blocked the front of the radiator with a sheet of plastic trying to build more heat. Therefore in my case the mechanical fan is always on for nothing and wasting useable power. In my case an electrical fan would be ideal because in the odd time I might use my tractor in the summer then the fan would start automatically when needed. The alternator can handle the load no problem. While doing maintenance and speeding up the engine I notice that the fan really moves a LOT of air. This is why I mentioned the fan clutch but going electric now that I upgraded my alternator is the way I am going to go.

Ch33rs
DC

 

[greg_g]

I have two tank heaters that might help with the cab heat. With the higher capacity alternator, you could even install an inverter so that the tank heater can be used while snow blowing as well. Like you said, fan wouldn't likely be drawing current while snow blowing anyway. Bought them for my John Deere, but couldn't find a workable location to mount them. One's a 750w, the other's a 1500. They're not expensive, but I don't know much about Canadian import fees.

//greg//

 

[D0TC0M]

Thanks for the suggestion greg unfortunately with only 18.4kw engine rating I don't really want to add much more load to it. I preheat the cab as well as the engine before blowing snow so it isn't so bad.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

It should be very easy to test -- just take the fan off once cold weather hits. It's four bolts.

Here's my prediction: the load of the fan on the engine is not noticeable. Let's say it's equivalent to an electric fan that draws 20A. That's 240 watts at 12V. With 18.5kW as your power rating that's 1.3%, not something you can notice. However, in cold weather the air that the fan moves cools the engine an appreciable amount. Even with the radiator covered and the thermostat closed the air will still cool the engine block itself. If your engine can't reach operating temperature, removing the fan might help it run warmer, which will make it run better.

Try taking it off on November 1 and putting it back April 1. If you like the way it runs you can think about a clutch or electric retrofit. If you don't like it nothing lost.

 

[greg_g]

Thanks for the suggestion greg unfortunately with only 18.4kw engine rating I don't really want to add much more load to it. I preheat the cab as well as the engine before blowing snow so it isn't so bad.

The engine power rating has nothing to do with it. It's the alternator rating that counts here. It doesn't take any more engine power to spin a 14A alternator than it does a 60A alternator. Then if you install a correctly sized DC/AC invertor, your alternator won't even break into a sweat over supporting an appropriately sized electric fan plus a 1500 watt tank heater plus the rest of the tractor electrics. The starter is not included in this equation, because it's turned by the battery. After the engine is started, then the alternator takes over - replenishing the battery and running the tractor electrics.

Installing an inline tank heater on the heater hose that supplies the cab - and powering it as described above - is add the equivalent of putting a space heater inside the cab. Except this extra heat will be coming out of your vents. There's no surge when a tank heater energizes, so you could get by with a 2000w invertor for both fan and heater - and still have juice to spare. $50 bucks on eBay or Amazon.
//greg//