Turbocharging a Jinma 254 Build (Y385)

[ElectroTechnics]

Turbo Jinma 254 Build Thread.

My Uncle and I are going to be turbocharging a Jinma 254 tractor, and I thought I'd post it up here since there seem to be no other write ups on adding a turbocharger to a Y385 engine.
Along with adding the turbo, we will be doing some other mods such as:
Relocating the battery
Replacing the mechanical radiator fan with a 3000 CFM electric fan with speed control
Replacing the faulty stock alternator with an 80A Bosch alternator
Replacing all the wiring
Replacing/adding our own gauges (engine oil pressure, turbo oil pressure, boost, RPM, coolant temp, hour meter, and an exhaust gas temp gauge)
Replacing/adding LED lights

The turbocharger is a TD05-12B which has a 1.5" compressor inducer and an A/R of 0.41 it is way to big but we are only going to run up to 5 psi of boost. It's a tractor, not a race car so turbo lag is not a concern.
We ordered a Kinugawa universal waste gate actuator, so if later on we want to run higher boost all that is needed is a $10 spring.

Compression ratio is a concern since being a N/A diesel it is already quite high (22:1) and running full 0.3 bar of boost will raise the effective compression ratio 28:1 meaning the compression pressure would be around 530 psi if I did the math right. With the relocated battery and upgraded cooling fan I don't think the engine will have any cooling problems. I calculated that at full boost it should make around 30-32 HP which is quite a bit more power 25% more!!

I will be welding up adapters for the stock header to fit the turbo and for the turbo to fit the muffler using 1.75" exhaust pipe, the same exhaust pipe will be used for the pressurized intake using silicone couplings. For the air filter we bought some silicone adapters and some 2.5" exhaust pipe to fit a 3" K&N style air filter. It being a diesel engine, wont care about the any oil that comes off of the filter.

The oil to the turbo will be supplied from the oil gallery on the left side of the engine where the stock oil pressure gauge used to connect. I made an adjustable restrictor for the turbo out of a needle valve and will run a separate oil pressure gauge for the turbo so that we can set the oil to a maximum of 45 psi. The oil drain will feed into one of the crank case cover plates on the right side of the engine. The turbo's water supply will come from where the radiator drain plug used to be, to supply the turbo with cooled water, and the turbo water return will feed into the water return barb on the water pump. I might setup a oil cooler as a coolant radiator so that it wont be pumping hot water into the engine.

I will adjust the injection pump to increase fuel flow to accommodate the extra air. I read that the adjustment is on the back of the pump and needs only a 1/8 of a turn, but I am not sure. If any of you know how to adjust the injector I would appreciate it if you would let me know.

That's pretty much all there is so far to the project. Lots of parts still need to come in, and I will start working on it on Friday and I will update you guys then. I will also make a Youtube video and link to it.

Attached is a photo of the turbo and a photo of the turbo next to the engine.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Since it is a compression ignition engine you will also have to adjust the timing. You cannot adjust the fuel rate from the governor, you will have to recalibrate the fuel injection pump (barrel and plunger assemblies). This is usually done on a test stand.
The logic of practicality escapes me on this project. But good luck. Horsepower equates to BTU, and I doubt the cooling system can handle it. Turbocharging also increases torque. Crunch some more numbers to find out if the drive train can handle it.

 

[Bob Rooks]

That's a cute little turbo.

 

[90cummins]

I installed a turbo on my 1720 Ford and used a Garrett GT1752 turbo off a Saab.
It builds boost very nicely with a max of 10psi.
Turbo's require very little oil but it must be delivered after the filter. Too much oil slows the turbo rpm so I would install an orifice in the supply and verify the quantity by measuring the turbo drain output.
The injection pump should have a fuel quantity screw and a high idle screw so you can add torque & rpm as you see fit.
The cooling system should easily handle the additional heat and the driveline shouldn't be an issue if you use common sense.
I have 500hrs on mine with no problems and I have worked it but I also monitor the gauges.
The logic and practicality is that the additional power has transformed my tractor from marginally adequate at some tasks to perfect.
It now has the power to muscle thru the patches of heavy growth when mowing and now handle my 60" KUHN tiller that was previously too large for it.
I have photos posted in reviews under Ford 1720.
Good luck you will enjoy the new power!
90cummins

 

[D0TC0M]

Very interesting project. I'll be following your success as I have a foton 254 and I also believe that 30-35 HP would be the perfect for my needs

 

[Bob Rooks]

Okay, I missed the point of doing it just because you can, and for the fun factor.
I'm just wondering though, what the overall cost of upgrading is compared to just buying the next size larger tractor? So is it cost effective?

 

[SPIKER]

Might look into the new Eco-Boost turbos on the 3cyl/4cyl Fords should be pretty cheap and a little less boost than the one ya picked. Though guess ya have it by pic lol...

Will be watching this one.

M

 

[ElectroTechnics]

I'm just wondering though, what the overall cost of upgrading is compared to just buying the next size larger tractor? So is it cost effective?

My uncle already had the tractor, and I "semi-blindly" bought a turbo on ebay (it was $30+shipping so I could not pass it up). The turbo was too small for making a turbo shaft engine from so we decided to stick it on the under-powered tractor

The next size up tractor (Nortrac 35XT) a 35hp model costs $2500 more and the parts needed to turbo charge it round up to $250 so it would be alot more expensive to sell this tractor for its depreciated value and buy the next size up.

I believe the 35hp Nortrac (Jinma with red paint) uses the same drive line so the turbo should not over stress it.

 

[D0TC0M]

I'd be interested in doing something like this but the obvious hurdle for me would be the injection pump calibration.

 

[ElectroTechnics]

I'd be interested in doing something like this but the obvious hurdle for me would be the injection pump calibration.

I'm not certain that a calibration is required. We are not planning on getting anything calibrated. I have read that there should be a smoke (fuel) screw on the back of the pump that can be adjusted.
I think it restricts the fuel return line directing more to the injectors.