Another Jinma Overheating problem!

[robmc5]

I have a 2003 Jinma 254 (FarmPro) Y385T Engine that started running very hot, well at least that is what the gauge says, there is no coolant coming out of the overflow. I can run it for 30 minutes and the gauge shows 100 degrees C (into the red) and there is still no coolant coming out of the over flow at all. I am in South Georgia and its been a hot summer, temps are high 90's everyday with Heat index over 100. I am sure that effects it some but not this much.

I cleaned the radiator exterior, same problem. I replaced the thermostat, it would still run hot quickly. I can see the coolant flowing in the radiator so I think the water pump is working. I then took the thermostat out, flushed the radiator installed new hoses, lightly pressure washed the radiator, refilled with new coolant and it is better, I might get an hour now before it shows in the red, but there is never any coolant coming out of the overflow. I made sure the line is clear, but at some point shouldn't the over flow work?

I am thinking about replacing the radiator cap and gauge, I hope that it nothing more serious than that, and I am still running it with out a thermostat.

Anyone have any issues like this?? Thanks!

 

[Bob Rooks]

Do you have a coolant recovery system connected?

 

[robmc5]

I do not, the over flow just hangs off the side. I remember last summer that when the tractor started getting hot the coolant would drain out of the tube, it no longer does that. I am just using the diluted prestone coolant, same that I use in my truck, if that helps.

 

[ElectroTechnics]

The Jinma 254 we are turbocharging would overheat in 95F plus days from the first day it arrived (when brush-hogging). It would take about 30 minutes to overheat.
Our fix (that would apply to you) included:
(1) move battery to fender (away from the front of the radiator)
(2) flush 3 times, the first with Prestone radiator flush and the following 2 flushes with distilled water (final flush was clear)
(3) replace fan belt with Kevlar belt and tighten
(4) grease water pump

Our extended fixes were:
(1) replace chaff screen with electric fan
(2) replace OEM gauges with digital ones to monitor in more detail
(3) replace poor quality OEM hoses with quality ones (OEM hoses decay over time)
(4) coolant overflow tank
(5) new radiator cap (low pressure 7psi max cap)

 

[CalG]

The " fixes" that increased air flow (1,1e) and perhaps the flush to assure radiator efficiency are the efforts that work to control engine heat. Those other things might make you feel good, but they don't change anything engine overheating wise.

The low pressure rad cap just means a boil over might come at a lower coolant temp. (about 3 degrees per 1 psi system pressure)

get a second thermometer into the engine coolant to verify temperature. OEM instruments are seldom "accurate". 210F isn't too hot for continuous use. much above that is hard on oil though)
Try a 30% coolant mix with pure water for summer time. water moves heat better than glycol.

An unobstructed radiator is key!

 

[robmc5]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I was planning on ordering another temp gauge from Affordable today but I will see if they have a better one. My battery is in the front but it sits real low, I dont think it obstructs the airflow. When I flushed the radiator with water it all came out clean, even the coolant that was in it looked clean. I did replace all the hoses, I will drain some of the coolant out and add more water and order a new radiator cap. I guess I guess I need to learn more about the water pump.

Thanks again for the help, this is my first tractor and it was used, so I would be lost without this board!!

 

[SPIKER]

I did a post on here a year or two ago where I pulled front battery out and tray, removed Rad and cleaned it. modified battery tray to move battery an inch forward and put high cap compact battery in it. fixed the issues mine had brush hogging from day one. Search on here for that post it has pics and etc on it.

Mark

 

[Bob Rooks]

The best coolant available contains no water at all. I plan on switching all my equipment over this fall. Evans waterless coolant. Actually water is a poor conductor of heat because it contains air and can create hot spots in the upper area of the liners where the piston rings turn.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Another trick that folks do to keep chaff out of the radiator is to fit a furnace filter in place of the chaff screen. Shake it out daily or as often as needed. Works like a champ. Heavy equipment will use pusher fans in extreme conditions.

 

[RonMar]

I wrapped my radiator guard plate in aluminum window screen(fixed in place with silicone sealant). it catches the crap that would clog the air passages, and I have to clean it frequently while brushhogging.

Cooling needs 3 things. Proper waterflow, proper airflow and enough energy transfer rate to transfer the heat to the air in the time allowed. So air or water passages clear? Water is more difficult, flushing dosn't always get it. A radiator shop would desolder the tanks and "rod" the water tubes to insure they are clear. Air passages are easier, put a bright light on one side and visually inspect the passages between the fins from the other side. Straighten any bent fins and blow the passages clear with air. Soaking the rad in soapy water might help loosen any fine dirt/mud. I don't reccomend using sprayed water. Water has mass and at velocity can damage(bend/tear) the fins. Fan shroud in place, water pump flowing? no flow = no cooling. Pumps usually don't go bad in this fashion(bearings usually fail, sometimes due to too much belt tension), but I have seen an impellar so corroded/eaten away that it would not hardly pump. Thermostat stuck? Well you pulled it, so that is off the table. What can sometimes happen with a removed thermostat however is that the water achieves such velocity that it dosn't spend enough time in the radiator to shed it's heat fully... A fully open thermostat still restricts the flow somewhat. Instrunmentation? Well it could be a bad gauge, but with the availability of inexpensive IR thermometers, it is pretty easy to rule this out.

Good luck...